Best oil for 2000 Lexus ES300 V6

[integrare]

My sister just got a used ES300 with 45K miles. The lady she bought it from brought it to the dealer every 6000 for the standard oil change. I was thinking about using GC or Mobil 0W-40 in 5K OCIs. What do you all think would be the best choice, not only limited to the two oils I have mentioned above, of oil?

TIA - integrare

[ September 01, 2004, 09:07 PM: Message edited by: integrare ]

 

[newtoncd8]

In our ES300 (1999), I used Mobil 1 10W30 in the summer/early fall/late spring and 5W30 in the winter. Worked nicely up until we traded it around 80,000 miles.

 

[SWS]

Hi!

Depending on the year, this engine could be one of the Toyota / Lexus "Sludge Motors" - you need to be aware of that. Regardless, I propose that you use M1 Synth of the grade that is specified in the owner's manual / oil filler cap. It is probably 5W-30. If you put a 40 weight oil in there, it probably will not rev as freely - I noticed this when I swithched from Conventional 5W-30 to M1 5W-30 is summer. The guys on this board say that M1 will "hold grade" better than conventional oil - it will not thin-out as much at high temp.

Replace the PCV valve - the "Sludge Motors" have weak venting of the crankcase and this is one of the possible causes of oil sludge.

Your first oil change after switching to M1 will probably need to be shortened a bit, since the M1 will clean things up a bit.

Best Wishes as you motor along!

 

[integrare]

Thanks Curtis and SWS, I probably go with the M1 10w-30 and I will most definitely be changing the PCV Valve.

Thanks for all the help - integrare

 

[Alan]

Change and keep an eye on the PCV as these tend to get gummy on 1MZ motors.

6K with dino

,ya might wanna check under the valve cover cause this model falls under the sludge policy.

 

[integrare]

quote:

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Originally posted by Alan:
6K with dino

,ya might wanna check under the valve cover cause this model falls under the sludge policy.

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I was a little concerned with this too. I believe the dealers use Exxon/Mobil for their service.

 

[toyo]

I have a 2001 Rx300. Same engine as yours. I have 123k miles on it. I have always used M1 5W30 with a Toyota oil filter. Engine is still like new inside.

 

[mikek753]

quote:

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Engine is still like new inside.

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How to check it out without removing engine?

 

[WeyounDS9]

quote:

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Originally posted by mikek753:

quote:

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Engine is still like new inside.

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How to check it out without removing engine?

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I think removing the valve cover should be sufficient to make an evaluation.

Fred..

 

[The Oil Expert]

This is a really nice car! That V6 is one of the best engines available. I wouldn't try to extend the oil drain past 5,000 miles even with Mobil 1. I would use Chevron/Havoline 10w30 year round in your area. If you ever get below 10F go with 5w30, i doubt if it gets that cold in your area. These 2 products will easily get you to 5,000 miles without creating engine sludge. If you really want to pamper this engine change it every 4,000 miles and use a wix filter.

 

[ekpolk]

The 1MZ-FE V-6, which is the only engine installed in the 2000 ES-300, is a great engine. I've owned a couple of vehicles that had VVT-i versions of the 1MZ. Unfortunately, the 2000 MY predates the engineering alterations which significantly reduced the sludge problem. In other words, this car would be a candidate for sludge issues if it has been mistreated at all. Also note that a lot of ES-300s go out on leases and don't get cared for all that well. I'd strongly recommend getting the front bank valve/head cover off for a look before buying a Toyota/Lexus of this vintage. I first heard of the sludge issue while I had an early-build Highlander, so I asked my dealer service manager about it. He "hemmed and hawed" about it, but when pushed, recommended using Mobil-1 or other good syn and changing at about 5k, no less, as the best way to stave off sludge.

 

[JustinC25]

Hi, I am a lube technician at a Toyota and Lexus dealer in nh. and Just wanted to add to the discussion. Firstly the 1MZ-FE is a great and powerful engine. However they do tend to sludge up on occasion. Usually due to lack of maintence. The heads in this perticullar engine tend to run very hot. This makes the oil break down, and in time turn into sludge. This can be prevented by dooing a couple of things. 1. Change your oil regularly. Toyota says every 5k, but I feel this is excessive. Even for Mobil 1. If you change your oil every 2.5-3k a dino will be fine. 2. But if you go over the 3k you should use a Synthetic. The m1 is good b/c it doesn't breakdown as easy at higher temps. But it still collects the same number of contaminents as a dino. And do you really want that extra crap floating arround in your engine for an extra 2000 miles? 3. Premium Gas (93) will help the heads run cooler, will increase performance b/c this is a high compression engine, and the computer will not have to retard the timing. Which will in turn also give you beter fuel economy. I hope this helps. I also have a 1994 Toyota Camry V6 (With the 1MZ-FE) wagon with 180,000 miles on it with no sign of sludge, or oil consumption. I have been running Castrol GTX 10W-30 Dino since new, with oil changes every 3k.

 

[Pete]

That about says it all...

I have a 1MZ-FE in my 2002 Sienna, with 50,000 miles now, mostly on Chevron Supreme 10W-30. I had posted a link to photos of the engine, this spring, with the left valve-cover removed--it is spotless inside.

All I would add is: use Toyota (or Lexu$) filters; these are very high quality oil filters, and air filters too. You can find the oil filters online for less than $4 each, shipped (Jaffarian Toyota in Haverhill, MA is my latest source).

Good luck!

 

[ekpolk]

quote:

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Originally posted by Pete:
That about says it all...

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No, it really doesn't. Some of what he says is correct, some is not. For example, with respect to running oil longer than 3k, he states that oil, "still collects the same number of contaminents as a dino. And do you really want that extra crap floating arround in your engine for an extra 2000 miles?" If you're using a decent filter, the very small amount of stuff the 1MZ generates will be trapped in the filter, and not "floating around" in the engine. And further, isn't it pretty apparent from all our good UOAs, dinos included, that 3k changes are excessive in all but the most severe service?

Second, from my own experience with two different 1MZ equipped vehicles, 5k intervals with Mobil-1 or GC are not at all excessive. I had the front head/valve cover off of my second 1MZ off at somewhere between 25k and 30k miles, and it was utterly spotless, without even any varnish discoloration. It looked like it was being assembled at the factory, it was that clean. I'd even pushed a couple fills of M-1 to over 7k miles, and it stayed this clean.

Third, he does not mention the upgrades Toyota made to the 1MZ during the 02 MY. I'd still be cautious with any 1MZ, but the newer ones should be less prone to sludge as a result. But extra care and attention are still warranted for the newer 1MZs since the extended "sludge warranty" does not apply to these cars.

Fourth, while I appreciate anyone taking the time to offer their input, I've had an experienced Toyota service manager (who has a history as a technician himself) tell me that using synthetic is an effective way to stave off the sludge monster. With all due respect to the new member, I'll take the word of my known-to-be-experienced service tech over an unknown lube tech.

On the other hand, in fairness, the rest of what he says is correct. The 1MZ really thrives on premium gas. It will burn regular, but the ECU will be retarding timing. Not only does this result in even hotter heads, but you can really feel the power being reduced. He's also right that you can successfully use dino oil, but if you do, you must be careful not to exceed its inherent limitations.

 

[Flash]

How far back does the 1MZ heritage go? My brother has a '94 ES300 and now I'm concerned on his behalf. He's got about 160k miles, as I recall, and does a lot of long distance driving. I've never really asked him about maintenance on the car, so I have no idea how often he has the oil changed or what he uses to do so.

Should I be concerned?

Thanks,
Ashley

 

[slider]

quote:

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Originally posted by ekpolk:

quote:

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Originally posted by Pete:
That about says it all...

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No, it really doesn't. Some of what he says is correct, some is not. For example, with respect to running oil longer than 3k, he states that oil, "still collects the same number of contaminents as a dino. And do you really want that extra crap floating arround in your engine for an extra 2000 miles?"

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If the oil has the capability to disperse the extra contaminants there is no problem whatsoever.

On a site like this, it is amusing to point this out.

 

[Audi Junkie]

quote:

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The m1 is good b/c it doesn't breakdown as easy at higher temps. But it still collects the same number of contaminents as a dino. A

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I still like the idea of more frequent changes of GII+ or HC verses Mobil 1. I know M1 is a very well-blended oil, but the physical process of draining out contaminates twice as often with a good cheap HC cannot be matched by a single fill of M1.(for the same cost) Do SJ/SL oils lack dispersants that Mobil 1 has an abundance of or is there a limit to how much additive can be dissolved into the finished oil anyway?

PS my vote for the best widely-available syn oil for this car is Saab Synthetic 0w-30, $3.25/ltr.

 

[ekpolk]

quote:

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Originally posted by Flash:
How far back does the 1MZ heritage go? My brother has a '94 ES300 and now I'm concerned on his behalf. He's got about 160k miles, as I recall, and does a lot of long distance driving. I've never really asked him about maintenance on the car, so I have no idea how often he has the oil changed or what he uses to do so.

Should I be concerned?

Thanks,
Ashley

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Flash: The 1MZ replaced an earlier V-6 design sometime in the early 90s. I know, that's not much help.

I'm thinking his is probably one of the very early versions. You can usually find the engine designation in a few places in the specs section of the Toyota owner's manual, or on a couple of the placards in the engine compartment. If the engine has been even close to properly cared for, you have nothing to fear except being stuck with an engine that will just never give you a legitimate reason to trade it in

.

==========================================

quote:

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Originally posted by Audi Junkie:

quote:

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The m1 is good b/c it doesn't breakdown as easy at higher temps. But it still collects the same number of contaminents as a dino. A

---

I still like the idea of more frequent changes of GII+ or HC verses Mobil 1. I know M1 is a very well-blended oil, but the physical process of draining out contaminates twice as often with a good cheap HC cannot be matched by a single fill of M1.(for the same cost) Do SJ/SL oils lack dispersants that Mobil 1 has an abundance of or is there a limit to how much additive can be dissolved into the finished oil anyway?

PS my vote for the best widely-available syn oil for this car is Saab Synthetic 0w-30, $3.25/ltr.

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AJ: I think I'm getting confused (not an uncommon thing...). Isn't the Saab Syn an M1 variant that's made for Saab to their specs? I've seen a couple different statements about this oil's genetics here on BITOG. That said wherever this stuff comes from, it seems pretty good. Second, don't we have enough evidence piling up over in the UOA section that healthy, modern engines, with a good filter, are well able to keep "gunk" at bay for as long as one might care (or dare) to run a fill of M1? Before I joined here six months ago, I really bought into that "flush the floating gunk" argument, but our objective UOA evidence seems to suggest that's not really valid. What's your take on those UOAs?

 

[Pablo]

ek - good posts (as usual)

I just want to throw an interesting oil out for this engine in Arizona: Amsoil HDEO 15W-40. First, the cost is not so "boutique" like. But more importantly it works great in the infamous Toyota 1MZ-FE V6, I have 4 folks in L.A. that asked me for it. At first I said the usual: "You don't need a 40......." in the end they go 5-6K mile oil changes and the engines look good, run good and the 2 that did UOA's - the oil was 100% healthy at around 5K, even low insolubles. (not sure what filters they each use, but not Amsoil from me)

 

[Audi Junkie]

I really don't know everything there is to know about Saab Synth. It carries more specs than just Saab/GM. I kinda doubt a special blend just for Saab. I have it in 1 car now, a turbo Audi. I recommend it because it is widely distributed and priced awesomely. I would compare it favourably to otc Mobil 1. It is somewhat exotic, but easy to get and cheap, hard to beat. Possibly, the lack of info and discourse on this oil is a good indicator. No sludge issues with Saab turbos and they go 22,000 miles between dealer changes. I can infer good things from that. I have a ton of GC and a few jugs of Saab so I just keep the greeness flowing in my car and use the Saab oil for experimentation in other people's cars.

I did not see the location though, AZ. My 1st choice for a cheap oil there would be Delvac 1300S 15w-40. I just did a cathartic change in my wife's car yeaterday, 1800 miles and that stuff was dark. This is after ARX, Maxlife, Rotella and Belgian Syntec, so it must be cleaning well.