Check Engine Light 2005 Hyundai AccentGT

[toocrazy2yoo]

So the other day, it comes on. Engine's running great, coolant and oil perfect as usual, temp gauge normal, no oil pressure light, oil level up, oil filter hot. Alternator charging with a full load (AC, headlights, wipers, etc) at 14.5 VDC. All accessories running as advertised. It went off after a few hours run-time (not a fuel issue that I know of, I hadn't filled the car up since the CEL came on, but the cap is/was tight at the time). I called the stealer (car's under warranty and even though the light went out, they wanna see what the code was that tripped the light). I made the appointment, and Saturday the light came on again. Since I had replaced the battery last fall from the puny, weenie battery the factory put in it to a big bad DuraLast that was probably bigger than the dealer will want to see, I went and bought one more appropriate to the car and installed it today. The car was off battery power long enough to wipe my radio presets, maybe a half hour. Lo and behold, the CEL is out again at startup after the new battery went in, and hasn't come on since (over the course of 50 or 60 miles today since I flopped the battery).

I thought under OBD II, a CEL stayed up until such time as the code is read, cleared, and the light canceled via the diagnostic. Why's it coming and going? COULD a battery with great capacity set a code that would fire the CEL up? And, why'd it go out when no diagnosis has been done on it? The CEL is on at startup and clears 5 seconds after engine on, as advertised. Anyone gotta cloo? Are there errors/alarms/conditions that could come and go and cause the light to come and go? It goes to the Stealer tomorrow regardless. I've already rattled their chain on this so I have to take it to them, but just curious if this makes sense to anyone in the know on OBD..

 

[JTK]

What is the code you are getting? I'd buy a code reader or go to Autozone before a trip to the dealer. It's been my experience that the CEL will go out if the condition causing it goes away. Some take a specific amount of drive cycles, others not so much.

Joel

 

[brianl703]

An OBD-II code will clear if it passes the self test diagnostics (readyness tests) twice.

It also takes two failures of the self test to set a code and turn on the light.

After one failure the code shows up as pending with a scantool, but does not set a light till the failure happens a second time.

Disconnecting the battery WILL clear the OBD-II codes. At least it did on my 2006 Saab 93 when I caused a misfire code by cleaning the throttle body. (Not that it was dirty, but I want to keep it from getting dirty).

A larger battery wouldn't cause an OBD-II code.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Yeah, I don't have a scanner, so I don't know what code set the light. Too bad the computer won't hold the code. Maybe the flaw will occur to whatever peg count turns on the light so the dealer can see it. It's under warranty, JTK, or that's what I'd do. They sell a really slick rig that goes into a laptop via USB and the software has the codes, what they mean for any car with OBD II, and an avenue to turn off the CEL (at least until the errors pile up again).

Tx, Brian

 

[Thermo1223]

The battery(being to big) will have nothing to do with the CEL being set but if you take it to Autozone and get the ECU scanned the code may still be there.

My VW's will keep errors in the ECU even if the light goes out. The reason being even though the car is fine it still wants you to know why it wasn't at the time. So it stores the code but doesn't trigger the light because it is not an immediate threat to the proper operation of the car.

Just go to an Advance Auto, Autozone and have it scanned. It's free and then you'll know for sure.

There is many things that will scan codes via USB on computers. One of the plus sides to using this diagnostic tool for my VW's is it has a generic OBD-II reader.

www.ross-tech.com is the one I need to use.

 

[JTK]

Quote:

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An OBD-II code will clear if it passes the self test diagnostics (readyness tests) twice.

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I thought the CEL would go out after 2 clean readiness tests, but the actual code will hold in memory for a certain number of error free drive cycles. I know that was the case for my 2002 Isuzu Rodeo. I had to change an O2 sensor due to a 'heater circuit malfunction'. Swapped the sensor, pulled PCM power for a half hour and thought all was good, CEL was out, etc. Went in for my yearly inspection and it was a no-go. Still running in open loop. I actually had to take the truck home & drop it off a day or two later to be re-scanned in order to get a clean scan.

Joel

 

[Junior]

Quote:

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Yeah, I don't have a scanner, so I don't know what code set the light. Too bad the computer won't hold the code. Maybe the flaw will occur to whatever peg count turns on the light so the dealer can see it. It's under warranty, JTK, or that's what I'd do. They sell a really slick rig that goes into a laptop via USB and the software has the codes, what they mean for any car with OBD II, and an avenue to turn off the CEL (at least until the errors pile up again).

Tx, Brian

---

You worry too much. Getting the code read at your local AutoZone will have zero affect on your warranty. Neither will the larger battery. OBD-II codes are pretty universal. I have found every single one I have been looking for on the internet.

Yep, by disconnecting your battery, you cleared the code(s).

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Cee-gar to Junior and anyone else that said the code would clear. I took it to the Stealer, and the codes were wiped. No Trouble Found, or, "NTF". Naturally, I said, "Debya-Tee-Eff"! Something lit the light, but they couldn't find it. So, they discovered the water pump had a leak, and spent five hours replacing THAT. So get this.

The guy takes the left side of the engine apart to get to the water pump. Accessory drive belts, timing belt, and then the water pump. While he's in there, I figure, I'll buy the timing belt and accessory belts, and have him install them since he has to put the car back together anyway, right? No dice. They wouldn't do it, even though the car has 45K on it and only 15K to timing-belt time. They said they'd be happy to do it, but I'd have to spend the entire $460.00 regardless of the fact that the car was already apart for the warranty repair. So they put the old drive belts back on, re-installed the old timing belt, sent me out with the car. Scroo you, Mr. Jim. 21 years I've been buying cars and servicing them WAY after warranty in that place, and they just HAD to stick it to me like that. Crooks.

So I take the car home, go out again after a few hours to get groceries, and a block from the house the car starts running rough and the CEL starts flashing and then stays on. I nursed it back to the house, called the Stealer who told me to call roadside assistance and the car went back to the Stealer on the back of a truck. The incompetent, crooked, crummy service department at the Hyundai Stealership saga continues. Tomorrow will be the tenth day I've lost the use of the car since I bought it BRAND NEW in Feb. 2006.

Confidence is low.

Anyone have any guesses what the CEL code will be this time (not that I expect them to be honest about it)? The car went back to the Stealer with a hard check engine light, and was stumbling as if it was on two cylinders at any RPM higher than 1500 under a load (in gear). It idles, but give it gas and it stumbles, even in neutral.

 

[brianl703]

Quote:

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Swapped the sensor, pulled PCM power for a half hour and thought all was good, CEL was out, etc. Went in for my yearly inspection and it was a no-go. Still running in open loop. I actually had to take the truck home & drop it off a day or two later to be re-scanned in order to get a clean scan.

---

When you disconnected the battery, you reset everything. When they scanned it for the emissions test, it told them that the readyness tests (there are about 5 different ones) had not yet completed. In order for these to complete, the vehicle must be driven long enough to allow them to run. Some of them only run under certain conditions--the catalyst readyness test is one of the most difficult ones to run, due to the fact that it typically requires steady-speed driving under about 60MPH.

Since the readyness tests had not completed, they told you to come back later. As a side note, depending on emissions test standards which vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction, not all the readyness tests need to be complete for it to pass.

What is the point of all of this? To keep someone from trying to make their vehicle pass by just clearing the code and taking it in for the inspection.

(If it's not clear, readyness tests are basically diagnostic tests designed to test all emissions components, which run automatically as the vehicle is driven in conditions that allow the test to be run)

 

[Cutehumor]

since they just worked on it, I'm guessing they put the timing belt back on wrong and didn't line up the timing belt at TDC correctly. maybe it's a blessing in disguise they didn't put on a new belt

 

[Junior]

The CEL could be any number of things. I had the same symptoms when the ac evaporator drain dripped on the O2 sensor and shorted it out. But could be anything.

I would be pretty ticked about the belt thing. Might be worth while to talk to the regional rep.

 

[D189379]

Quote:

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Cee-gar to Junior and anyone else that said the code would clear. I took it to the Stealer, and the codes were wiped. No Trouble Found, or, "NTF". Naturally, I said, "Debya-Tee-Eff"! Something lit the light, but they couldn't find it. So, they discovered the water pump had a leak, and spent five hours replacing THAT. So get this.

The guy takes the left side of the engine apart to get to the water pump. Accessory drive belts, timing belt, and then the water pump. While he's in there, I figure, I'll buy the timing belt and accessory belts, and have him install them since he has to put the car back together anyway, right? No dice. They wouldn't do it, even though the car has 45K on it and only 15K to timing-belt time. They said they'd be happy to do it, but I'd have to spend the entire $460.00 regardless of the fact that the car was already apart for the warranty repair. So they put the old drive belts back on, re-installed the old timing belt, sent me out with the car. Scroo you, Mr. Jim. 21 years I've been buying cars and servicing them WAY after warranty in that place, and they just HAD to stick it to me like that. Crooks.

So I take the car home, go out again after a few hours to get groceries, and a block from the house the car starts running rough and the CEL starts flashing and then stays on. I nursed it back to the house, called the Stealer who told me to call roadside assistance and the car went back to the Stealer on the back of a truck. The incompetent, crooked, crummy service department at the Hyundai Stealership saga continues. Tomorrow will be the tenth day I've lost the use of the car since I bought it BRAND NEW in Feb. 2006.

Confidence is low.

Anyone have any guesses what the CEL code will be this time (not that I expect them to be honest about it)? The car went back to the Stealer with a hard check engine light, and was stumbling as if it was on two cylinders at any RPM higher than 1500 under a load (in gear). It idles, but give it gas and it stumbles, even in neutral.

---

Sounds like you timing belt is on the way out.


























Couldn't resist.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:

---

Since the readyness tests had not completed, they told you to come back later. As a side note, depending on emissions test standards which vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction, not all the readyness tests need to be complete for it to pass.

What is the point of all of this? To keep someone from trying to make their vehicle pass by just clearing the code and taking it in for the inspection.

(If it's not clear, readyness tests are basically diagnostic tests designed to test all emissions components, which run automatically as the vehicle is driven in conditions that allow the test to be run)

---

Yes. In PA you're allowed ONE readiness test to be incomplete. Apparently, a number of vehicles don't perform the EVAP-PURGE when the tank is full or below a certain level. But you'll get a pass if ANY single readiness test is incomplete ..at least here.


In my son's Cherokee it requires a cold start and what DC calls a "good (as in valid) trip". The 02 heater sequence takes the longest...but that's of no concern to the DMV if the other tests are performed and PASS.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Well, naturally enough, they got the car that night, didn't touch it until the afternoon, but it DID hold "misfire" errors. He says he can't find any bad components to replace, so he cleared the light and they gave me the car back. He expressed the opinion that the light will come back at which time a dwell-angle sensor will be suspect. I drove it today, it feels ok, but again, confidence is low. They put a timing belt back on that had 45K on it, check engine lights keep lighting, they keep resetting them, and TS to me.

The Hyundai dealer here is just a miserable institution as regards customer satisfaction. That they're willing to turn a car back over to a customer knowing it has an unresolved repair problem the car has been in twice for. Their entire system is filled with lots of sympathetic folks with no power to go upstairs to solve a problem. Then they call me to ask my opinion about my service, I filled them in, but they didn't offer to do anything about it. They claim if the light comes back on again to call ahead and they'll "try" to line up a loaner. They're very nice while they're not taking care of the problem, I'll give them that much.

Figure what, a week or so before the next CEL cycle starts again?

 

[Cutehumor]

they should give you a loaner and keep it until they fix your car

 

[jcwit]

I had the same thing happen to my Kia Rio, same engine I think. Ran rough then stalled, CEL came on, I have a OBD-II code reader, gave a code for missfire on #3 cyl. I checked the pluk and sprayed the wires with silicone spray & cleared the code. End of proplem,was simple in my case.

 

[wavinwayne]

Sounds like a faulty coil pack, or plug wire. Maybe a bad spark plug??? Or, could be as simple as a loose connection at a coil pack or plug wire.

 

[javacontour]

Are you sure the timing belt is pulled for a water pump replacement?

I think I would have offered to pay 1/2 the book labor for the new belt before giving up.

However, I think it's pretty ---- that they didn't go with you reasonable request, (assuming that the timing belt is changed during a waterpump R&R.)

 

[Junior]

Ah yes, could be a cracked coil pack(s). Happened to me. Ran fine on sunny warm days. Wouldn't get out of its own way when it rained. I had to replace two. 98 f150

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Well, if they're cracked, or a wire is bad, surely they'd find it. I dunno how long the factory will continue to pay a tow and labor for them to repeatedly not fix the problem. I've had the car back for a day and a half, maybe a couple hundred miles driven and no light yet.

Maybe half the labor was fair, maybe not. How about on a warranty repair necessitating the work to begin with , they're already being paid, and this one time, to keep a longtime customer happy, ONE time, maybe we bend a little?

Nah.. Scroo him.