Just did the first oil change on both my recently purchased 2007 Outlaw 500 ATV's. The price for 2 oil change kits was $90! The owners manual dictates an oil change every 10 hours using Polaris PS-4 or equivalent. Does 10 hours for synthetic oil sound reasonable? What is so special about this oil? Any suggestions for an alternative? I can't find any info on the quart as to the weight of this oil. Can't do $400 a month in oil changes, but would like to keep possible warranty hassles at bay. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Polaris PS-4 Oil Ouch!
- Thread starter Laz
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0w-40 Synthetic, base stock=secret
Vapor pressure: Negligible at ambient conditions.
API gravity: 35.2 at 15.6°C (60.0°F).
Density: 7.07 lbs/gal at 15.6°C (60.0°F).
Specific gravity: 0.849 at 15.6°C (60.0°F).
Solubility: Negligible in water, soluble in most petroleum solvents.
Percent volatile: Negligible.
Vapor density (air=1): Greater than air.
Evaporation rate
(n-Butyl Acetate=1):
Negligible.
Odor: Mild, bland hydrocarbon odor.
Appearance: Green, slightly viscous fluid.
Viscosity: 14.0 cSt at 100°C (212°F).
70.0 cSt at 40°C (104°F).
Boiling point: Not determined.
Pour point: -50°C (-58°F) maximum.
Other: Not
Vapor pressure: Negligible at ambient conditions.
API gravity: 35.2 at 15.6°C (60.0°F).
Density: 7.07 lbs/gal at 15.6°C (60.0°F).
Specific gravity: 0.849 at 15.6°C (60.0°F).
Solubility: Negligible in water, soluble in most petroleum solvents.
Percent volatile: Negligible.
Vapor density (air=1): Greater than air.
Evaporation rate
(n-Butyl Acetate=1):
Negligible.
Odor: Mild, bland hydrocarbon odor.
Appearance: Green, slightly viscous fluid.
Viscosity: 14.0 cSt at 100°C (212°F).
70.0 cSt at 40°C (104°F).
Boiling point: Not determined.
Pour point: -50°C (-58°F) maximum.
Other: Not
You can check on Ebay they sometimes sell Polaris oil change kits. I know what you mean the polaris oil is beyond ripoff, what I did was when the warranty was up, was just quit using it. I used Castrol Syntec or any synthetic oil of your choice will work, Mobil 1 has 0w30 and 0w40, it has a seperate gear box so clutch slippage isnt a problem. Before Polaris came out with their Hi-tech gear oil(Higher Price) for the transmission, they used to spec 10w30 oil. Ive used it and had no problems. Harley davidsons also have a similar set up and bike shops that cater to Harley riders, they could fix you up with a transmission oil alternative. Harley oils and generics are alot cheaper and Ive heard work fine. Oil filters can be bought at Dennis Kirk omline or a free catalog they will send you. I bought filters from Dennis kirk for about 1/3 the price of Polaris. Iam sure Fram makes a filter to fit it and you may be able to buy at a auto parts store.
Odd that they don't list a viscosity on it. I guess that that short of a OC interval is due to the shared crankcase, if that is your setup. I also don't know if getting a VOA on this oil would divulge all of its secrets, or just enough to get into trouble so to speak.
I guess you and a friend get to do a lot of riding, eh?
One other question that I thought of, what is the capacity of the crankcase?
Lastly, might want to check into Maxima Oils. I use them. They aren't reasonable, but are built like tanks in additive package construction. They make several levels as well.
My daughter has a Raptor 50 from Yamaha, but at .8 quarts crankcase capacity and no filter, I don't mind getting Maxima's top of the line Ultra 5w40 @ $12 per liter. She's had it for 3 months, and has 26 1/2 hours on it (at 8 years old, she does have a varied regiment of fun!).
Maybe someone else with a little more tribology background could chime in hear with some more recommendations...
I guess you and a friend get to do a lot of riding, eh?
One other question that I thought of, what is the capacity of the crankcase?
Lastly, might want to check into Maxima Oils. I use them. They aren't reasonable, but are built like tanks in additive package construction. They make several levels as well.
My daughter has a Raptor 50 from Yamaha, but at .8 quarts crankcase capacity and no filter, I don't mind getting Maxima's top of the line Ultra 5w40 @ $12 per liter. She's had it for 3 months, and has 26 1/2 hours on it (at 8 years old, she does have a varied regiment of fun!).
Maybe someone else with a little more tribology background could chime in hear with some more recommendations...
Well, I guess that I need to type faster!!! Thanks early Lonnie and Panzerman!
Here is a 0W-40 that will fit perfectly:
Amsoil AFF 0W-40 4-Stroke Power Sport Oil
And looking at the specifications posted by Lonnie, it looks like a good match.
Amsoil AFF 0W-40 4-Stroke Power Sport Oil
And looking at the specifications posted by Lonnie, it looks like a good match.
I think you are getting screwed by the dealer on the oil change kits. Most I have seen are around $30 a piece. Look for a different dealer. At my dealer Amsoil and Polaris oil are the same price. Maxima oil is going to be higher than both Polaris and Amsoil. I have used the Amsoil 0W40 in both my Sportsman and my dirt bikes with wet clutch trannies and it work great.
Looks like it, with a recent switch from the specs Lonnie posted - the MSDS must be newer than the specs.
Polaris does not have shared engine/transmission. The last time I bought one was in 1999, It was a sportsman 500. I beleive they are still the same basic set up, just bigger and more powerful. The engine oil would hold 2.25 qts(with filter) and the transmission held like 20 onces, I think. I still have a Explorer 400L and a Trailblazer, but they are both two strokes, which is a different animal.
I own a Polaris/Victory motorcycle, which uses 20w-40. Most of the Victory oil change kits are expensive. The oil is a synthetic blend.
Most of the bike owners have started to use the diesel dino 15w-40 (shell rotella,delvac,etc.), synthetic 5w-40 (shell rotella), and 20w-50 (dino and synthetic) with no problems.
Performance is just as good or better with a shared sump, cooling, shifting, and oil usage. No clutch problems, as long as a person stays away from the gas conserving additives and oils.
Most of the bike owners have started to use the diesel dino 15w-40 (shell rotella,delvac,etc.), synthetic 5w-40 (shell rotella), and 20w-50 (dino and synthetic) with no problems.
Performance is just as good or better with a shared sump, cooling, shifting, and oil usage. No clutch problems, as long as a person stays away from the gas conserving additives and oils.
The Polaris dealer has many oil change kits for around $30, but the one for the Preditors and Outlaws are $41+tax. Asked today and I can buy everything in the kit separately, for a savings of $6. Amsoil 0-40 was $10 and Polaris PS-4 $8 a quart. This Atv has a manual clutch and is liquid/fan cooled. Would an oil analysis be useful in determining if a 10 hour interval is needed? Price for Shell Rotella 5-40 looks tempting. Is $10 for Amsoil a normal price? Thanks for all the input!
laz, if you put an hour meter (tiny tach) on the engine you might find that 10 hours is quite a bit of riding. You might also factor in how hard it was run, outside temp, oil used, even what the oil looks like, how it shifts, etc, and adjust your change interval accordingly. 10 hours of racing, vs 10hours of playtime can make a big difference IMO. Holding over 2 quarts is a decent amount of oil for that size motor so it should hold up pretty good under normal riding.
IMHO, wouldn't get too locked in to the 0w thing, it limits your choices of some other decent oils. 0w40 is just a broad market recommendation due to where quads are sold and used. Absolutely nothing about that motor requires a 0 winter grade other than it MIGHT be used in the great white north. I would even go out on a limb and say it would be better off with a motorcycle 40 or 50w.
IMHO, wouldn't get too locked in to the 0w thing, it limits your choices of some other decent oils. 0w40 is just a broad market recommendation due to where quads are sold and used. Absolutely nothing about that motor requires a 0 winter grade other than it MIGHT be used in the great white north. I would even go out on a limb and say it would be better off with a motorcycle 40 or 50w.
Oil analysis is going to cost $20 - $30 so you might as well just change the oil. As for some suggesting a motorcycle 40 or 50W, the Polaris and Amsoil is a motorcycle oil. You could run the Amsoil 10W40 in the summer and the 0W40 in the winter, but I don't know if it will buy you anything.
There is nothing special about the oil change kit, just buy 2 qts (3 the first time if 2.25 qt cap.) and a filter. Each change will be roughly (2.25 x $8) + $10 for a filter = $28.
Unfortunately one of the bad things about performance engines is increased maintenance.
There is nothing special about the oil change kit, just buy 2 qts (3 the first time if 2.25 qt cap.) and a filter. Each change will be roughly (2.25 x $8) + $10 for a filter = $28.
Unfortunately one of the bad things about performance engines is increased maintenance.
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