Gunk flush vs. Amsoil flush vs. BG Purge

[ericthepig]

I've been searching for info the on this, but it's giving me a headache.

Background - my 98 Sienna van has passed thru 200 miles w/ 16oz (not 12) of Neutra131 in the crankcase along w/ new Rotella 15w40. I'm thinking once I hit 400 miles or so that it was be good to do a quickie flush to attack the softened junk (I would put new (cheap) oil in it for the flush).

Question - is there likely to be any real difference between running Gunk flush for 20 min or Amsoil flush for 20 min or BG Purge for 40 min? I realize their solvent chemistry varies, but do any of these truly do a better job in this one shot hit than the other? (ie, if the benefit between these is only marginal, then I'll just pick up the cheap Gunk)?

Thanks!
(btw, I used the BG Purge for 40 min when my Sienna was at 62k - I had told a Toyota mech about my sludge worries, and he said to run BG for one hour - I chickened out after 40 min - the stuff smells like Pine Sol and kerosene). My van presently has possible gummed rings - thus the Neutra run.

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

Some years back, a friend bought a used VW engine. He decided to flush it, and thought the AMSOIL was too pricey. So, he used new oil and Gunk. Ran it for the prescribed time, and drained it. Oil looked a tiny bit discolored.
He put in new oil, added the AMSOIL flush, and ran it as recommended. Said the oil came out absolutely black, and filter weighed considerably more than when new.

No experience with BG, but should certainly be acceptable (and better than Gunk).

 

[ericthepig]

Thanks ****!

I just read the following thread and it answered my questions on Amsoil Flush. Sounds like good enough stuff.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1

 

[odessit]

I used Amsoil flush on my 95 Prizm, brand new oil did come out on a darker side (engine was not in a bad shape to begin with)

One recommendation - after flashing, drive for ~300 miles and put new oil to get rid of the chemicals. And start using ARX in maintenance dose you do not have to flush the engine again (ARX is definitely safer for the engine/seals)

 

[ericthepig]

Thanks odessit! I'm planning to do maint. w/ Neutra at the end of each OCI. My readings say that A-rx won't mess with the host oil, but I'd still like to be additive free for the majority of the run. Just want Schaeffers in there.

 

[BrianWC]

Quote:

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Thanks odessit! I'm planning to do maint. w/ Neutra at the end of each OCI. My readings say that A-rx won't mess with the host oil, but I'd still like to be additive free for the majority of the run. Just want Schaeffers in there.

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eric, I'd recommend this link to see Terry's take on arx in a motorcycle and how if anything, it improved the oil and wear while it cleaned.

http://www.cycle-rx.com/carlos_test_overview.html

Per the thread title though, I'd say AMSOIL is probably the safest followed by Neutra. That being said, I've heard a lot more folks bragging on dark oil with Amsoil than with Neutra. To be honest, I didn't see any effect from running out a few hundred miles with Neutra. I know it's supposed to be a good product, though, and use my remaining stock in my gas tanks. I've heard people say BG is good, but I'm a bit hesitant based on the prices they usually charge. Gunk should be renamed "Junk" or "Overpriced Can of Kerosene."

 

[ericthepig]

Brian, the Sienna has close to 300 miles on the Neutra - the oil is showing some color, but nothing dramatic. May even be the yellowish color of the Neutra. The Mazda has gone thru 200 miles on the Neutra - perhaps getting a little darker. The Mazda is seriously varnished in the valve cover area, and has patches of carbonization - but the car is about 20 yrs old - so I'm not fretting about it. Meanwhile I'm thinking after 500 miles of work by the Neutra - these engines will be nicely prepped for an Amsoil flush (Pablo sold me two of his best cans of flush for this purpose).

From what my Yota mechanic said (a few months ago he saw under the valve cover and timing belt area), and from the looks of the dipstick - the Sienna engine may be very clean except for the oil ring area (if that's possible). So I may not get a lot of visual result from the Neutra and flush - the proof will be in my future oil consumption (two recent OCIs were 1 qt in first 1k).

 

[KieferS]

does anyone know anything about the BG44k engine flush? I can get it for 12 dollars, the flush and some 'seal conditioner' that i probably won't be using.

 

[ericthepig]

I'm not familiar with BG44k - looks like a gas additive with the same promised results as Schaeffers Neutra 131 (meanwhile I've heard very good things about Neutra - apparently excellent at carbon removal from cylinders). You can get Neutra for about $16/gal. - which should go a lot further than BG44.

If interested, go to Schaeffers web site and do a dealer search - if there's not a dealer within driving distance, then ask BITOGr Salesrep about it.