http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/oil_tech/dyno_results.html
Seems like it is not as much as I would think; 0W20 vs 10W60.
Seems like it is not as much as I would think; 0W20 vs 10W60.
more HP out of light weight oil ?
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Gains were fairly small and more in the higher RPM ranges that a lot of stock vehicles may not see very often. Also the test engine was two to three times a powerful as the typical car, so gains on the average car probably are negligible to the individual owner, but would add up for purposes of CAFE.
I would agree with this article and in my experience, when I tried PP on my last OCI, it was thicker having just come off the MC 5w-20 prior to the PP, the PP made my car feel 10 pounds heavier. Now that I am on M1 5w20 currently, it feels just as thin as the MC and the car has way better throttle response then the PP. I would agree that atleast for the cases of MC, PP and M1, thinner is better. For the record, MC gave me great perf and mileage with M1 coming in second although being a full syn, I will sacrifice a little for the sake of protection and varnish.
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Mobil 1 5w20:
cSt @ 40º C 48.3
cSt @ 100º C 8.8
Pennzoil Platinum 5w20:
cSt @ 40C 46.84
cSt @ 100C 8.48
Your car should "feel lighter" with the PP.
Well that is what happenned. The only variable is I was using the Japanese Toyo Roki oil filter which, being more sturdy as well as obligatory for my 'clean cycle', probably was more restrictive and increased oil pressure.
Thin oils help, for sure. Especially with smaller modern motors that can rev high.
"For street engines that do not suffer this kind of track-day abuse, merely pouring in a synthetic does not mean that you can radically extend service drain intervals. Petroleum-based oils do not lose their base lubrication characteristics, what does suffer with use are the additive packages added to the oil. Synthetics are no different"
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Well that is what happenned. The only variable is I was using the Japanese Toyo Roki oil filter which, being more sturdy as well as obligatory for my 'clean cycle', probably was more restrictive and increased oil pressure.
The JDM S2000 Toyo Roki filter is larger than the standard Honda A01/A02 but it shouldn't be any more restrictive. These filters are manufactured to maintain a level of oil pressure that is specified by Honda. I mean no offense at all, but I think it's just in your head about the difference in feeling between the M1 and PP in your car...
Metal end caps versus cardboard plus other differences will make the JDM filter more restrictive and no question its a heads and tales difference between PP and M1 in *my* application anyway.
My 2.2L Ecotec feels and sounds different with GC 0w30 vs Amsoil 0w20 ASL. As the posters have correctly said - I really only notice this in the higher RPM range (past 3.5k). (racing or downshifting to high rpms).
However... I have recorded little MPG gain - 1-2mpg and I can never be sure if it is wind/driving conditions/etc...
However... I have recorded little MPG gain - 1-2mpg and I can never be sure if it is wind/driving conditions/etc...
I think you don't know what you are talking about. Cardboard end caps may be cheap and appear shoddy, but they don't restrict oil flow because oil doesn't flow through it, just like filters with metal end caps. It's the size, compactness of pleating, and material that the MEDIA is made out of that ultimately determines whether a filter is more or less restrictive.
Hammer
Dang, there goes my reason to go thinner.
so, what kind of clearances was that small block 454 running? vs. a modern production car engine blueprint? If it was "loose", as suspected, it no big suprise the 20w50 didn't show much pumping loss. Not sure I'd base my daily driver oil selection on this test.
Actually not exactly true. Petroleum-based oils due oxidize, break down, shear and evaporate at faster rates than PAO and ester based oils. And good additives last a LONG time.
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