Toyota super long life coolant.
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I use it. What is it that you want to know? I use it in every Toyota that I have owned. I have also used it in GM vehicles with GM engines.
I sorry, I was mistaken! I thought that you were talking about the RED not the PINK. The RED is what I use.
The PINK on the other hand is Toyotas newest formulation. It is a 50/50 mix of coolant and DI or RO water. This is designed for a drain and refill. Yes! you should probably flush the whole cooling system and refill with the PINK but, you would have to remove the water in the engines lower unit because the PINK is already diluted 50%. The PINK may be a 5 year coolant as compared to the RED that is a 3 year coolant. I really don't know. I really like the RED and am not interested in changing. I like to buy a gallon of RED and a gallon of distilled water and mix it myself. The RED is really great stuff already.
Heres the thing with the PINK:
So often when people drain, flush and refill their cooling systems, they create an air pocket in the cooling system that they can't seem to get rid of. This air in the cooling system reaks havock by cuasing hot spots and throws the temp gague into the red zone. By just draining the radiator and resivior and adding a 50/50 mix, you can eliminate the trapped air in the system caused by flushing. Honda has come out with this type of coolant also, and also, most of the makers of anti-freeze/coolant have as well.
The PINK on the other hand is Toyotas newest formulation. It is a 50/50 mix of coolant and DI or RO water. This is designed for a drain and refill. Yes! you should probably flush the whole cooling system and refill with the PINK but, you would have to remove the water in the engines lower unit because the PINK is already diluted 50%. The PINK may be a 5 year coolant as compared to the RED that is a 3 year coolant. I really don't know. I really like the RED and am not interested in changing. I like to buy a gallon of RED and a gallon of distilled water and mix it myself. The RED is really great stuff already.
Heres the thing with the PINK:
So often when people drain, flush and refill their cooling systems, they create an air pocket in the cooling system that they can't seem to get rid of. This air in the cooling system reaks havock by cuasing hot spots and throws the temp gague into the red zone. By just draining the radiator and resivior and adding a 50/50 mix, you can eliminate the trapped air in the system caused by flushing. Honda has come out with this type of coolant also, and also, most of the makers of anti-freeze/coolant have as well.
found this in toyota web site
Extending the Life of Liquid Coolant
Beginning in May 2002, the LLC (Long-Life Coolant) used in new vehicles was switched to an improved super LLC that can be used for approximately twice as long as the conventional coolant (160,000km or 7 years from the time the coolant is placed in a new passenger vehicle) before replacement is necessary. Sales were also begun of the coolant for re-supply. Through this measure, the volume of waste LLC can be cut in half, making it possible to also reduce the burden on customers.
Extending the Life of Liquid Coolant
Beginning in May 2002, the LLC (Long-Life Coolant) used in new vehicles was switched to an improved super LLC that can be used for approximately twice as long as the conventional coolant (160,000km or 7 years from the time the coolant is placed in a new passenger vehicle) before replacement is necessary. Sales were also begun of the coolant for re-supply. Through this measure, the volume of waste LLC can be cut in half, making it possible to also reduce the burden on customers.
Bob,
Just my opinion, if you use the block drains and the radiator drains and remove all the old coolant, it is probably fine. If you leave any of the old coolant in there, it is a good idea to fill with distilled water, circulate and drain before filling with the new coolant.
Just my opinion, if you use the block drains and the radiator drains and remove all the old coolant, it is probably fine. If you leave any of the old coolant in there, it is a good idea to fill with distilled water, circulate and drain before filling with the new coolant.
It will be ok to use the pink fluid in a 01 corolla? Im getting mixed replies on other sites and from the dealers. If so, after the initial drain how long to circulate the old remnant of red fluid diluted with distilled water before the second draining? Is 1 minute enough time to circulate it good?
Here is the problem with using pink. Pink comes pre-diluted to 50/50. If you do a home "flush", can you remove 100% of the water from the block? If not, then using the pink with result in a lower than 50/50 mix.
The fluid is backwards compatible meaning that you can use it in an older car.
The fluid is backwards compatible meaning that you can use it in an older car.
Usually you want to run the engine long enough for the thermostat to open up. Then it takes a couple hours to cool it back down again. If you use the block drains you probably don't need to worry about it. I think it is fine to use the pink in your car.
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It might help if we knew where you are. I have local recyclers that take it. You might check the phone book for your area. I think Walmart might take it also but I have not tried this.
Hi.
Yes you can use new SLLC in older Toyota vehicles.just did the coolant change from red colour long life to new pink colour super long life coolant.Replaced thermostat valve and the o ring at the same time.
SLLC can use up to 80000kms.
Yes you can use new SLLC in older Toyota vehicles.just did the coolant change from red colour long life to new pink colour super long life coolant.Replaced thermostat valve and the o ring at the same time.
SLLC can use up to 80000kms.
I will always use Toyota red in my Tacoma. I change it every 30K.
As I'm mystified as to the premature failure of my water pump (replaced by the stealer under warranty) on a 2005 Hyundai Accent, I'm scouting around to replace the syrup the dealer replaced my G-05 with. Dunno if the original stuff the factory put in and sat in the car for a year and a half wrecked the pump, or if it was the G-05 i replaced it with when I bought the car.
Even the factory reps at Hyundai USA have no clue what they're talking about. They say use the 5 year/150K Yellow Prestone, but do NOT use DexCool. Well, that's nuts. The chemistry warning statement on the jugs of 5/150,000 mile yellow Prestone, and the licensed Prestone DexCool clone that I used for years on my old Hyundai (with excellent results) are identical. The Havoline coolant? Dexcool clone, they also list the same two organic acids listed in the "Big Two" Prestones and GM's original DexCool.
We know what's in G-05, a borate and a small dose of silicate to quickly repair damage to the OAT layer. The Dealer's mechanics, service manager and parts guys? When asked, they point to the big tank outside and say that is the stuff they use, but they don't know if it's a DexCool clone, a silicate, or if it's green mud, as they have no idea about any of the chemistry considerations to begin with, nor do they care. However, they ARE raking in the cash on water pump replacements. Dang, I'm cynical, eh?
So? Since I have a nice tight cooling system, the puke tank level rises and falls with the with the temperature of the engine (meaning my sealing is good, that is), I'm going back to my old friend, licensed DexCool Prestone which served my old Hyundai for 188,000 miles without any cooling system issues or peculiarities it worked. What a concept!
Even the factory reps at Hyundai USA have no clue what they're talking about. They say use the 5 year/150K Yellow Prestone, but do NOT use DexCool. Well, that's nuts. The chemistry warning statement on the jugs of 5/150,000 mile yellow Prestone, and the licensed Prestone DexCool clone that I used for years on my old Hyundai (with excellent results) are identical. The Havoline coolant? Dexcool clone, they also list the same two organic acids listed in the "Big Two" Prestones and GM's original DexCool.
We know what's in G-05, a borate and a small dose of silicate to quickly repair damage to the OAT layer. The Dealer's mechanics, service manager and parts guys? When asked, they point to the big tank outside and say that is the stuff they use, but they don't know if it's a DexCool clone, a silicate, or if it's green mud, as they have no idea about any of the chemistry considerations to begin with, nor do they care. However, they ARE raking in the cash on water pump replacements. Dang, I'm cynical, eh?
So? Since I have a nice tight cooling system, the puke tank level rises and falls with the with the temperature of the engine (meaning my sealing is good, that is), I'm going back to my old friend, licensed DexCool Prestone which served my old Hyundai for 188,000 miles without any cooling system issues or peculiarities it worked. What a concept!
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