pop the top on a maintenance free battery?

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Sealed batteries actually are designed to hold some pressure, either 2 or 6 psi, I can't remember which. This, along with a bit of calcium, essentially "recycles" the fluids.




What you are describing is true for AGM (absorbed glass mat), aka SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries, or VRLA (valve-regulated lead acid) the most common example of which are alarm panel and UPS backup batteries, as well as children's ride-on toy batteries.

These are different from the type of maintenance free battery you'll normally see in a car.
 
This brings us to another good point, Calcium is added to the plates in newer batteries as it reduces gassing while a battery is charging. What this so called recycling method does is that it prevents hydrolysis, which in turn prevents water being broken down in to H and O gas. Mostly used on the Sealed Lead Acid batteries as they are found on stand by equipment such as emergency lights or uninterrupted power supplies. These have a one way valve which opens when the battery needs to vent excess internal pressure. What I do like about these one way valves is that they prevent dirt from entering the battery, contaminated electrolyte will work less efficiently and cause premature failure in batteries. I have never figured out why such measures are not incorporated into regular battery design as dirt always finds its way past the vents right into the electrolyte.

Sealed lead acid batteries must be valve regulated by design otherwise if over-pressurized on the inside, they would explode due to the high internal pressure. The AGMs are a completely different beast, because instead of being flooded batteries (meaning that we flood or submerse the plates in liquid electrolyte) AGMs use a sponge that is sandwiched between the positive and negative electrodes, hence the reason why these batteries can be mounted in any position. This so called sponge which holds the electrolyte should according to what battery manufacturers say be better at retaining water upon battery discharge and eliminate hydrolysis (formation of H and O gasses during charging) which is the primary loss of water from any lead acid battery. The one way valves ensure that the battery in not over-pressurized, yet at the same time keep out all contaminants which should help the battery last a long time.

We’ll see how well they will hold up, my AGM battery is holding up for its 7th season, 2nd car, I will be mainly interested how well the one way valves holds up in keeping contaminants out, we’ll see once the battery will be ready to bite the dust, I’ll be cutting it open and further examining.

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It seemed to work well when that deep-cycle battery tipped on it's side. *Nothing* leaked out. I repeat, *NOTHING*.




All batteries have vent caps designed in such a way that if the battery tips, no electrolyte will be spilled out. Now over time, electrolyte may weep out, but for the immediate tip over there should be very minimal to none spillage. I’ve done this on old school batteries that use to have the one cap per cell, the idea is to make sure that the spilling liquid does not form an arch from one cell to the next as it is being spilled out otherwise the two cells become shorted and the battery is rendered useless. What we absolutely don’t want happening is for an arch to form from the positive to the negative terminal while the acid is being spilled, if this happens battery shorts, explodes and in worst case scenarios catches on fire.

But electrolyte mist is usually so small that even if these patented vents do recycle most back to the battery, a small amount always finds it’s way out of the battery. I have cut open old batteries that were suppose to use this technology, only to find out that the top surface of the plates was exposed to air and oxidized causing pre-mature failure.
 
I wonder how much of that is due to electrolysis and how much is due to evaporation.

It is known that in hot climates a battery will have to have water added to it more often. Presumably this is due to evaporation. A vent cap won't/can't prevent water from evaporating from the electrolyte. The battery in my 1988 Ford Mustang is about a year and a half old and I recently checked it and it was a little low so I added water to it. By the way, there is no corrosion buildup at all on the terminals or anywhere near the battery.

The AGM batteries are very interesting--I have an APC 3000 UPS that someone apparently dropped because all 4 of the 18AH/12V batteries inside of it were busted open. But nothing leaked out of them.

Most car batteries you buy use both lead-antimony plates and lead-calcium plates, this is the "low maintenance" design which reduces water loss. The "maintenance free" design uses only lead-calcium plates which reduces water loss even further. But maintenance free batteries are not recommended in hot climates--perhaps due to evaporation?
 
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Also interesting to note that some manufacturers (never been able to confirm this one) calibrate the vehicle for one type or the other (voltage set to battery type), depending on whether its a sealed battery or not, based on the climate (hot vs cold) it's sold in, in the US.




GM, who is probably the biggest proponent of lead-calcium maintenance free batteries, does appear to set their voltage regulators higher than does Ford by about .4 volts. I base this on watching the voltage output of a Ford Contour compared to my Saab 93. When it's 90F out the Saab never drops below 13.8V. Under those same conditions the Contour outputs about 13.4V.

From what I remember of the typical low-maintenance lead-antimony/lead-calcium "hybrid" battery (such as you'd find on the shelf of Costco, or Autozone, or Pep Boys..etc) it prefers a float voltage of about 13.4V. The lead-calcium maintenance free batteries prefer a higher float voltage of about 13.8V.

On the other hand I've been floating a low-maintenance deep-cycle marine battery at 13.8V (it's what the charger in my UPS is set to output--it was designed for AGM batteries) and it doesn't appear to be losing any water due to the higher float voltage.
 
brian, good points re: vrla, sla, etc. I'm trying to reach back and remember which batts were in which cars... the miata was agm vrla, but the oem chrysler was... well, I would have *assumed* not vrla/sla, except that the seals were pretty precise and looked very close in design to the miata, and other pressure-sealed (gel ups & agm ups type) cells. I'm not sure...

Interesting re: wet cell on ups. I kept 2 deep cycle RV batts (series, 24V) tied to a smart ups ... 700? 900? in the garage during storm season. They definently bubbled on float charge... had to add water ~monthly. I don't recall the float voltage, but in my case it was just a touch too high for the wet cells.

Cool stuff!

Mike!
 
Batteries do lose water from evaporation and do it worse in hot climates. The Edison Battery (which is a completely different design from the Lead/Acid type but did have a liquid electrolyte) often had oil put on top of the electrolyte to retard evaporation. You can see "Edison Battery Oil Jars" on EBAY for sale from time to time. I don't know why this could not be done to a conventional lead/acid battery but I have never seen it done. Perhaps the problem was worse with an Edison when used in industrial sites.
 
The way to tell is if you can hear anything sloshing around in the battery when you pick it up. VRLA batteries are never flooded (that I've ever seen).

As far as the UPS, that could've been temp-related too--my UPS and deep-cycle battery are in the basement, which is probably a lot cooler than a garage would be. On the other hand, the Smart-UPSs that I've looked at do have a thermistor so they should be using a temp-compensated float voltage.
 
Just to add a little something to the mix...

My original Delco Freedom battery (read maintence free- no caps whatsoever)on the 99 Prizm got replaced last month. That's 7+ years!!!

"Batteries are like a box of chocolates you never know what you gonna git"
 
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