New lawnmower what oil to use

[Mystic]

I just now bought a new lawnmower. I got a Troy-Bilt with a Honda built engine.

The new lawnmower came with 20 ounces of 10W-30 oil called Arnold-a brand I had never heard of before. I used that oil with the idea that it would be a good break-in oil. Where I live the elevation is 4700 feet and gasoline comes in 85 octane, 87 octane, and one other octane number. It says in the owner's manual that 86 octane gasoline should be used. I used 85 octane because supposedly at higher elevation you don't need as much octane.

So, is it better to use SJ rated oil like what is recommended in the Honda engine manual (the lawnmower came with two manuals-one for the engine and one for the lawnmower)? In the Honda engine manual it says that 10W30 oil is recommended for 'general use' and 30 weight can be used in warmer temperature. SH or SJ rated engine oil is recommended. I assume the SH and SJ rated oil is recommended because of more antiwear additive. I can get Briggs & Stratton 10W30 SJ rated oil. But I would like to use maybe 10W30 Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum. If I do use the car & truck engine oil should I add some antiwear additive? Which antiwear additive? Maybe add some Valoline Engine Oil Supplement?

I can't get exactly 86 octane gasoline. I can get 85 octane or 87 octane. Which is better to use?

 

[lars11]

Now just a question about octane. Is that number the same around the globe? In most of europe you can't even buy anything other than 95, 96 and 98. Maybe 104 for racing. Absolutely no 87, 85 or such.
For your question: Don't bother about octane. It's mainly a "lowest" recommendation. The fuel will burn fine with anything above the recommended octane rating.

 

[Rickey]

Octaine is figured by a different method in Europe. Research # only IIRC, in the states it's figured as R+M/2 I believe. Which gives a lower number for the equivilant product.

In theory if 85 octaine doesn't sparknock under sudden heavy load it shouldn't be a problem.
However I would run the 87 for piece of mind.
Following the manual's advice is always reccomended.
Sparknocking is especially bad for an air cooled engine is what I understand concerning this.

Concerning the oil:
You will get differing opinions on this.
It is my belief that the extra additive in an SH or SJ formulation will certainly do no harm to an air cooled engine while offering added protection for this application.
And others will maintain that an SM rated oil is adequate for this engine.
In all honesty both are probably correct.
I prefer the extra additive levels though.
I suggest changing the break in oil out early and changing early for the next few oil changes.
Change early especially if the engine doesn't have an oil filter.

You could probably run the cheapest SM rated oil available, change it regularly, and have the the engine outlast the rest of the mower.

Good luck with your new acquisition.

Rickey.

 

[Quest]

Mystic-

The really good news is that Honda built their small engines the same way they would do to build a car, so one shouldn't be surprised when it asks for 10W30 SJ/L/M multi-vis oil. Because they believe in using the same process in hardening their camshafts just like they would do for their automotive engines, you don't have to pamper their cams just like you would with some 30+yr old L-head B&S block with lots of ZDDP or so. Just run any decent automotive grade motor oil and change it every 25hrs and it will serve you right for a long, long time (I use Wallymart Tech2K diesel 15W40 in all B&S I own, with the exception of my Be washer with Honda GC engine which I use whatever synthetic motor oil I have left behind (Q-state full syn 5W50, Esso synthetic 10W30,etc.)


Because you live higher up the elevation, your typical pump gas octane rating shall be lower than at sea level which is typical.

Also: because you are operating close to 5000ft above sea level, your engine will run a bit lean (14% less oxygen @ 5000ft above sea level) and for that you may have to adjust the carb a bit richer to compensate for that.

Good luck and enjoy! At least you aren't dealing with some crrrappy B&S block on Murray mowers that recently my neighbour has and the carb mounting bolt decided to fly off due to thin materials on the alu block gave way....*sigh*

 

[edhackett]

Geeezz Quest, what alternate universe did you wake up in this morning?

The OP said that the manual that came with the engine specifies SJ, not SM.

The consumer Honda engines (GC) series use plastic cam shafts and gears.

Engines run richer at altitude, not leaner. Less air, fuel stays the same.

Again,

I've had a few days like that myself.

Ed

 

[Bill Kapaun]

"Use 4-stroke motor oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API service classification SJ or later."

Why doesn't anybody read the "or later" part?

 

[Mystic]

Yes, the Honda engine manual says to use 10W30 SH or SJ rated oil. 10W30 oil is preferred although straight 30 weight can be used in warmer temperature. I came across a Honda website where Honda says that their lawn and garden small engines were tested with petroleum oil. Which sort of hints that they expect people to use petroleum oil. I would use something like Pennzoil conventional SM rated oil but are the ZDDP levels high enough? Apparently motorcycle oil contains more ZDDP than engine oil for modern day cars and trucks.

So I guess I will buy Briggs & Stratton 10W30 SJ rated oil and change the oil often (like every month in the summer). Like I said the lawnmower came with Arnold 10W30 SJ rated oil but I have never heard of that oil brand before. The Briggs & Stratton oil is available locally and should be good enough. I might put a very small amount of Auto-RX into the oil to help keep the engine clean.

I like the way the Honda engine is designed. The air filter is in a quality unit and the air filter looks pretty good, although it is expensive. It is easy to reach and I prefer replaceable air filters after my experience with reuseable filters for lawnmowers. The engine started right up no problem and ran good.

I prefer the Troy-Bilt lawnmower with the Honda engine. The Honda lawnmowers are very expensive and I don't like the SmartDrive on the Honda lawnmowers. The Troy-Bilt looks well built, has large wheels, and only cost about $350.00. The Honda engine on the Troy-Bilt runs like a top; much better than Briggs & Stratton engines.

I am also going to check around a little and see if Honda might make motor oil for their own lawn engines. If so I will use the Honda oil.

 

[Quest]

Mystic-

Arnold is an aftermarket rebrander (aftermarket small engine supplier) for all things small engine (Kohler, B&S, Echo, etc.). Arnold oil is probably some rebadged stuff from domestic suppliers such as Warren??

In other words: nothing special about their oil.

Again, unless you feel like there's a need to adhere to factory rebottled/rebranded motor oil (e.g. Honda oil for Honda mower engines, Yamaha oil for Yamaha gensets,etc.) otherwise, for typical 4cyl Honda engines, any high quality automotive grade brand name oils (example: CAstrol, Chevron, Havoline, M-1, etc.) shall do justice.

Just remember one thing: Honda small engine is built like their car engines so you shall have no problems running automotive grade oil. Also: because of this, I have yet to come across a single incident of Honda mower engine (GC series) camshaft wear due to lack of ZDDP when using API SJ/L/M grade multi-visc oil (I do small engine servicing as a side/weekend job also),so no need to stress on that.

As I said before: just use what's your heat desire when it comes to oil for HOnda. IT's very easy on the oil you know, and it shall be able to provide you hundreds of hrs, if not thousands of hrs of faithful, worryfree service down the road so long as you follow their servicing guideline. Heck! I would just simply do oil change every 25 hrs!

Take care.

Q.

 

[Quest]

edhackett-

my bad on the lean part. Yeah, multitasking in front of 3 monitors while typing with carpal tunnel syndrome makes life very hard...

Well, at least I no longer have to lift those 3 hundred tonnes worth of Chrysler torqueflite trannie all day long anymore...

Later ,

Q.

 

[Quest]

So sorry, I meant to say that it's a nylon overhead cam...

I guess 2 bads doesn't make 1 right out of me this time.. *geese*

Q.

 

[Camu Mahubah]

In my mower I have run everything from the Briggs and Stratton oil, that came with it to Valvoline Durablend 15w-40, Valvoline 10w-30, Halvoline 10w-40 and now Trop Artic 30w.
I think if it were a snow blower I'd run 10w-30, but a lawnmower runs in the summer so a 30w may be best.

 

[1999nick]

Quote:

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"Use 4-stroke motor oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API service classification SJ or later."

Why doesn't anybody read the "or later" part?

---

The "or later" part applies to classifications previous to the "SM" classification. Because of the reformulation designed to protect catalytic converters in some late model automobiles, which lowered or eliminated some anti-wear additives, many are wary of "SM's" ability to protect sliding surfaces such as camshafts. Since SM has no advantage in a lawn mower engine, as they have no catalytic converter to protect, previous ratings are probably better. Notice that the B&S synthetic oil does not have the SM rating, and neither does the new Amsoil 10W30/30 specialty oil designed for OPE.

 

[edhackett]

Dang, it looks like I didn't finish my thoughts either.

I think the GC series engines have an aluminum bore along with the nylon cam. As Quest says, these are quality engines with the potential for a very long life. Not up to their commercial engines, but it will out-last any comparable Briggs or Techumseh.

I always opt for the best (within reason) oil for the job. I prefer to use a HDEO in my small engines. I wouldn't go out of the way to buy the overpriced Briggs, Arnold, or Honda oils. If this was my mower, I'd run Delo or Rotella 10W-30 in it, changed at 25 hour intervals.

Don't run the original oil for more than about 1.5 hours. It'll be full of metal from break-in. I'd change the oil at least 3 times in the first 25 hours.

Ed

 

[Quest]

Just to chime in a bit more:

RE: alu bore on small, non continuous heavy duty application, there seems to be a general trend for alu cylinder head to do away w/o iron sleeving. The trick is to resort to chrome plated bore with proper cross-hatching mark for ring seating, and/or just like many 2T engine--> do "nicadsil" (nickel-cadmium-silicone) plating to build up sufficient thickness before machine boring to proper texture and servicing properties.

While I do not know whether this may provide/promote better longevity or service life than iron sleeved type counterparts but frankly, I still prefer the older iron sleeve type of configuration. I do see an immediate benefits to "coated" alu cylinder bore though: that is, with pistons made of similar thermal properties of that used in these cylinder blocks, they shall be able to follow thermal cycle in unison to each other, thus promoting better service life and longevity by reducing the possibility of piston skirt scuffing, cold-start rapping due to excessive bore-to-skirt, much more uniform thermal cycle physical properties, etc.
But then again, as technology progresses, I'm gradually falling a tad behind RE: servicing these new designs. I may have to go back to trade school someday to catch up on the technology again...

Q.

 

[GrtArtiste]

I also bought a Troy-Bilt with the Honda engine. It would be wise to dump that first fill of oil after approx 5 hours to remove the metal particles that remain after engine manufacture. Mine looked like a silver soup. Also, do not refill with the same 20 ounces or it will leak out of the governor pivot arm. Put in about 14-16 ounces, then top it off carefully.

 

[Rob Taggs]

At work we got new asphalt tampers, mowers etc... with Honda engines. We use straight 30 HD. When my boss can, he will go out and buy Castrol 30 HD for all the Honda engines. The Hondas are alot better than the Briggs and Strattons before them. We have an old Wisconsin gas engine on a spraying unit that has to be at least 30 years old. It is run year round on Castrol 30HD and runs like a clock.

 

[Mystic]

Thanks for all the advice guys. This little Honda engine runs really good and I want to keep it running like that. I am not some sort of engine expert but you can SEE, HEAR, and FEEL that this little engine runs better than a Briggs & Stratton. I am not trying to put down Briggs & Stratton but all of the nice little touches indicate to me better quality. For example, instead of pushing a rubber or whatever half ball to prime the engine for starting there is a fuel shut off. The little air filter looks like something you would find in a car or truck except it is smaller, and it is placed in a nice little housing. It does not look like an afterthought. The only thing I don't like about the air filter is the cost ($9.95). I checked the price for some parts when I bought the mower. I bought the mower at Lowe's, by the way. I checked the mowers at Home Depot and the Hondas were much more expensive (plus I don't like the SmartDrive).

I ran the mower about 1 hour the day I got it. I cut the lawn and I cut some grassy areas on either side of my house. With all the rain the Buffalo grass is coming up big time. I think I will try to find some Delo or Rotella oil to use in the engine, with maybe just a tiny bit of Auto-RX. But I want to stay with the viscosities recommended-the only viscosities recommended are 10W30 and straight 30 weight. Can I find these oils in these viscosities?

I will not go very much further with the oil that is currently in the engine. The engine already has about an hour of operation and I figure I will mow the grass 1 more time and check the oil and if it looks like it is getting dirty or has shiny particles in it I will change the oil. If the oil still looks good maybe I will go another 2 mowings of the lawn and then change the oil. But I don't want to go any further than 5 hours on the orginial oil.

I figure I will change the oil once a month. After all, it only takes 20 ounces of oil and a couple of quarts of oil will last 3 oil changes.

I probably will not need an air filter the first year although I will check the filter occasionally. I may need to get a spark plug socket for the spark plug. But I will probably not need another spark plug until next year. About the only other thing is getting the blade sharpened occasionally.

I am going to use 87 octane gasoline in it. You can't find 85 octane gasoline in most of the USA but here in Colorado they sell it. Supposedly you can use lower octane in the mountainous areas.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

On my Honda I change the plug every 5 years. After looking at the old plug, I wonder why the rush.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

"Use 4-stroke motor oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API service classification SJ or later."

Why doesn't anybody read the "or later" part?

---

The "or later" part applies to classifications previous to the "SM" classification. Because of the reformulation designed to protect catalytic converters in some late model automobiles, which lowered or eliminated some anti-wear additives, many are wary of "SM's" ability to protect sliding surfaces such as camshafts. Since SM has no advantage in a lawn mower engine, as they have no catalytic converter to protect, previous ratings are probably better. Notice that the B&S synthetic oil does not have the SM rating, and neither does the new Amsoil 10W30/30 specialty oil designed for OPE.

---

And it says that where?

 

[1999nick]

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

"Use 4-stroke motor oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API service classification SJ or later."

Why doesn't anybody read the "or later" part?

---

The "or later" part applies to classifications previous to the "SM" classification. Because of the reformulation designed to protect catalytic converters in some late model automobiles, which lowered or eliminated some anti-wear additives, many are wary of "SM's" ability to protect sliding surfaces such as camshafts. Since SM has no advantage in a lawn mower engine, as they have no catalytic converter to protect, previous ratings are probably better. Notice that the B&S synthetic oil does not have the SM rating, and neither does the new Amsoil 10W30/30 specialty oil designed for OPE.

---

And it says that where?

---

It says what where? The Amsoil website gives the specs on their new small engine oil, and SM is not included. We all know that lawn mowers do not YET have catalytic converters, which the SM specs are specifically meant to protect. SM is a PCMO, and, while not the optimal oil for small air cooled engines, will probably give most folks reasonable engine life. But, why use it when better oils are available? Many use a 15W40 HDEO, with excellent results. I am looking at a brand new quart of Castrol Syntec 5W40 oil which says it is formulated especially for BMW, Mercedes Benz, and Volkswagen, and is rated for API service SL, SJ, and CF. I am down to my last quart of Mobil 1 5W30 that is old enough to not have the SM rating, and I will probably be using an HDEO or this 5W40 in the future.