Boat trailer tires....need a set, not sure

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 28, 2005
Messages
1,627
Location
Timberline
who to use.

Here's the scoop, nearly every 3yrs we're having to replace these tire's due to dry rot more then actual use/wearing out. This set, IIRC, are bridgestone's with plenty of life left tread-wise, but, they are barely 3yrs old and have so much dry rot, I'm afraid to even put that boat on the street.

My thing is, I can't see the point in spending $80+ tire, just to have them dry rot anyways in the Colorado weather.

Tire size is 205/75 R14's - I do not need anything fancy, just something that tracks well down the highway and obviously something that grips decent on a slippery wet dock.

I see Goodyear has actual Load C Marathon trailer tires, but I've not had good luck with Goodyear in the past.

Any other ideas?? I have your typical Passanger tire on it now, and have had P tires on it for years without issue, so no worries there.

Also, other then either taking them off or covering them for the winter, anyone know of any tricks to keeping the harsh winters from attacking them?
 
Normally, dry rot, cracking is caused by heat(sunlight) and ozone. Many high end RV's come with covers to use on tires when parked for extended periods. Why would keeping them covered when not in use be much of a problem?

Bob
 
It's not a problem - they are already protected with tire covers from Camping World when the boat's not in use.

That's what I meant to ask - what else can I do, other then covering them to protect them?
 
I think your problem is the altitude - UV and ozone concentration. Plus a bit of over cautiousness. Cracking is a natural part of rubber degradation and some level is to be expected.

So if you are already covering the tires, I can only suggest 2 things:

THEE most important prevention technique is proper inflation pressure. I'm hoping you check it pretty much every time you tow the trailer.

But I think you have a problem with load carrying capacity. A P205/75R14 has a load carrying capacity of 1433 pounds at 35 psi when used on a passenger car. When used in a light truck or trailer application, the load capacity has to be reduced by 10% - to 1290 pounds. That means - if you have 4 tires - that the most the trailer and boat and all the junk you carry, can not weigh more than 5360# - and you already said the boat weighs 4000 # dry.

So while you think using P metric tires is OK (I think you said "without issue"), the fact that you are getting premature ozone cracking may be a symptom of overloading. You're just replacing the tires before they fail - which is good that you are paying attention.

So as a first step. I would weigh the trailer - fully loaded, in the worst possible case. Load it up with everything you can possbly imagine you would carry. It would be best if you can get the weights by wheel position, but if you can't, use a 10% factor to estimate uneven loading.

Then see where you are.

Another suggestion would be to use a tire dressing with antioxidants. I've heard that Armorall is NOT one of those, but I haven't verified it.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
i basically agree with capri racer (wow really) 4000lbs on a single axle is just too much for those tyres.

heck load range e tyres on a dodge ram truck are only good for 2000lbs. and those are some heavy duty tyres.

youve got a couple choices. you can keep doing what you are doing and hope for the best.
you can upgrade to heavy duty tyres and wheels that can handle the weight.
but then you would have to check to be sure that axle could handle 4000lbs, heck you might as well look at the trailer rating sticker and see if thats even a strong enough trailer.
 
Make sure to use trailer tires not standard tires and you should be fine for weight. But sorry they weather, just life I guess.
 
I just realized you said you only had 2 tires holding up the load - Back the truck up!

Going through the calculation again, the trailer and its cargo can not weigh any more than 2580# - and you said the boat weighs 4000# dry!!!!!

OK you absolutely need larger tires - and perhaps a bigger trailer (2 axle???)

Please, please, please weigh the trailer like I suggested. If you have a tire failure, you will regretnot having done this.
 
You guys are definitely on to something - WHY I never thought of this before I'm not sure; I ALWAYS make sure my trucks have tires a little over-rated for their capabilities, but I never thought about that #@$%! trailer.

Yes, when the boat was bought years ago, brand-new, it was a question then, as to why it didn't have dual axle's. And, yes, I do check those tires before every trip, keep the psi at the maximum because of the load.

I will definitely look into actual trailer tires, I know Goodyear has a set that are 6-ply versus the 4-ply's that are on it.

Capriracer - if you knew how much that trailer weighed in at fully loaded, you'd send me to loonieville - just imagine a 20' boat loaded for sometimes a weekend, sometimes a 2 week vacation. Sometimes we take 7 people, sometimes it can be 20.

I can not believe I didn't think of this sooner, thank goodness we never had a blow-out!

We did run trailer tires for YEARS, but someone mentioned at some point that we could run P-metric tires and I think that's where it all begin.

Pure luck, I reckon, how we've made it this far - I'm glad I asked the question, I just can't believe, with my paranoia, even, why I never thought of this sooner!

Thank you guys for sure!
 
Ramblin',

I'm glad we are where we are, instead of trying to figure out why you've had a series of tire failures.

But to add further fuel to the fire:

Whoever told you you could run regular passenger car tires in place to the ST's you took off - well, he's wrong, wrong, wrong!!!

An ST205/75R14 has a load carrying capacity of 1430 # at 35 psi for a Load Range B, 1760 # at 50 for a Load Range C and 2040 # at 65 psi for a Load Range D.

Compare that to a P205/75R14 which has a load carrying capacity is 1290 # at 35 psi.

Words of wisdom - stick with the original tire size and type and don't try to re-engineer the vehicle. If something else is cheaper, you have to figure the designer of - whatever - already would have done it.
 
I believe you completely, Capriracer.

So, in theory, we're better off with a load C tire versus an ST size - is this correct?
 
I think that to get a load range C or preferably D it will have to have an ST in the size code. Never personally seen a 14" D load range, but if CR says they'r available I'm sure they are.

Bob
 
Just to clear up a few things:

Passenger car tires come in 2 flavors - "Standard Load" and "Extra Load" (sometimes termed "Reinforced" by the Europeans).

ST's and LT's come in Load Ranges.

And while I appreciate alreadygone's vote of confidence, I'm usually referencing a standards book which will list what is possible (or approved, or something like that.) I really don't have a good source for what is actually available and am frequently surprised as to what tires AREN'T available in the marketplace.
 
Passenger car tires have weaker sidewalls than trailer tires, which will cause the trailer to sway. That said, if all you do is haul your boat to the water in the spring and back home in the fall, then I'd throw on the cheapest generic stuff you can find and not worry about it.
Otherwise just jack up the trailer and take the tires off and put them inside when you're not using it.
I know a lot of people using the Goodyear Marathon trailer tires and they all like them.
 
As far as the load, it would be smart to check the AXLE and hub ratings ... using load range D tires at 65 psi still might not give a safe system.
 
Have a looked into this quite a bit lately as our (new-to-us) travel trailer (a 1983 34' Silver Streak ) has a GVWR of 8,000# on a tandem axle set-up. There are some strong arguments (tone over facts) about trailer tires. The manufacturers websites are the place to begin. They'll agree with you about covers (and isolation from ozone in any form); about the problems of sidewall cracking, etc. They'll also tell you that the more you drive the vehicle the more that the "essential oils" (thoughts of Sterling Hayden, here) are recirculated through the carcass to alleviate this problem. Read for checking the depth. At the least, replace them every five years.

Some sites argue against GY ST tires (and I'm predisposed against them) and argue for MAXXIS ST tires. Others will argue in favor of converting to 16" wheels and MICHELIN XPS all-steel tires (my route at some point).

The short version is how much is a blow-out worth? Probably $3,000 minmum damage to me with just one blow-out; in deformed aluminum alone.

For you, with a single axle trailer, ????

16" offers the best selection of tires. ST tires are only rated to 65 mph and have terrible ratings otherwise. They are good for, IMO, holding the trailer up at the campground.

I have 7.00-15 LT on mine, a Chinese-made tire "Liberty" (distributor out of Nashville) that were cheap. I might travel 3,000 miles on them before dumping them in a year or two. They come from a tire retailer I trust who services plenty of oilfield equipment and he's had but a few comebacks.

I am running the tires at less than 90% of capacity, run the roads at 1700-1900 rpm (58-63 mph) and drive so as to avoid braking, hard turns, etc. I imagine that you can find an LT tire that is at 80% capacity for your trailer and feel comfortable with five years use. Just hitch up and drive it every other month if you want to keep sidewall cracks at bay.

Use the spec sheets at TIRE RACK to compare capacities. And, like oil change intervals, don't assume that the 2,540-lb GY Marathon is better than a competitive LT tire that fits.

Talk to dealers in your area who service equipment haulers, etc.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top