Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic meets BMW LL-01 specs.
great stuff
great stuff
What type of oil for BMW 325i?
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Very interesting!
Can you find specs anywhere?
Things like Viscsosity at 40C and 100C.... and HTHS?
Can you find specs anywhere?
Things like Viscsosity at 40C and 100C.... and HTHS?
You can add Pennzoil Platinum 5w-40 to the list - ACEA A3 and BMW LL-98.
Cheers
JJ
Cheers
JJ
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I've had good luck with Castrol 0W-30 and Mobil 5W-40 for cleanliness. The dealership provided Castrol 5W-30 and former 5W-40 all contributed excessively to brown deposits on the oil cap and valve cover. I've removed my valve cover on two occasions and the top-end is very clean but I just don't like that brown nasty stuff on my plastic engine parts.
I may try Mobil 0W-40 if the Castrol 0W-30 becomes unavailable. I put such low miles on the car that I just change the oil for the fun of it when I'm bored. I average 7,000 miles a year and end up changing the oil twice a year just because I love to tinker on that beautiful aluminum piece of mechanical artwork.
I may try Mobil 0W-40 if the Castrol 0W-30 becomes unavailable. I put such low miles on the car that I just change the oil for the fun of it when I'm bored. I average 7,000 miles a year and end up changing the oil twice a year just because I love to tinker on that beautiful aluminum piece of mechanical artwork.
Again, you can use any synthetic in this car as long as you don't do the recommended 15,000 mile OCI. All of the Euro garages in my area use a selection of synthetics, including Pennzoil Platinum. That's what I use in my 540i and it works great. You do not need to use an oil that meets the A3/BMW LL spec unless you are planning on running it out past a 7,500-10,000 mile interval.
Wait. A3 really only means thicker visc, which can be had in other oils, and longer change intervals, which is not a necessity. For now, run the 30 weigth Mobil 1, but since it's summer, add some VSOT or MLEP (MaxLife Engine Protector, I'd send you some if needed) to thicken that oil up. The thing to know about 30 weight oils is that most are then and a fw are thick, like BMW Castrol Synth 5w-30 and German Syntec and MaxLife Synth. Another thick 30 oil is Castrol GTX HiMiles. That's the oil I'd run, keeping the intervals at 5000 miles. Before doing that, I'd do some shorter runs of 15w-40 to help clean the engine out. At the end of the change cycle, I add a q of kero and run it at idle for 10 minutes before draining. DO that and definately do at least one Aut-Rx application. Come winter time, go with a 5w- oil. I think Hi-Miles is the way to go. GTX HM, Maxlife, Maxlife Synth, new Mobil 1 Hi-Miles, or the pick of all would be Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck. So the answer is not which one oil to use it would be how to get to that point and have a clean engine that can correctly use that oil. Here, in short...oil additive for now, kero rinse, ARX w/ 15w-40, 15w-40, then pick and oil you want to try, GTX HM 5w-30 would be a good start. Blend or other Hi-Mi 10w-40 is acceptable, 5w-40 is only worthwhile if you want to get over 6000 miles out of a change.
Very nice of Auto Union to offer to send the VSOT! That's the real BITOG spirit!
While I may not personally agree with all of your advise, it has logic and is based on facts!
I'm a bit too conservative to try the Kerosene rinse, but I do run LC-20 when I'm not running ARX/ ARX maintenance. Sometimes I will add an extra 7 ounces of LC-20 for the last 100 miles before I drain oil.
Perhaps the goals are the same?
I tend to be in the "slightly thicker is better" camp.
I do like to see the ACEA A-3 , LL-01 approvals... or like you , the HTHS of 3.5 and the near the high end of 100 C viscosity range for the 30 weight for my BMW engines.
There's a chart which is a work in progress. It lists 40 C, 100 C viscosity, and HTHS [ when available ]
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...e=0&fpart=5
I don't believe in running the full Oil Life Monitor distance.
Using a good synthetic 7000 miles -8000 miles is enough for me.
The tip about Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic having a LL-01 is a good tip, I wish I could find the Product Data sheet for this oil!
And I bet the Castrol HM would be fine for someone who doesn't want to spend for LL-01 approved oils, or Redline or Amsoil oil.
In my two BMW's I run either GC 0W-30 or Redline. I'd consider Mobil 1 0W-40 if I couldn't find the first two oils.
I think this thread shows that there are lots of ways to approach the finding an oil for the BMW, and feel that the engine is protected.
While I may not personally agree with all of your advise, it has logic and is based on facts!
I'm a bit too conservative to try the Kerosene rinse, but I do run LC-20 when I'm not running ARX/ ARX maintenance. Sometimes I will add an extra 7 ounces of LC-20 for the last 100 miles before I drain oil.
Perhaps the goals are the same?
I tend to be in the "slightly thicker is better" camp.
I do like to see the ACEA A-3 , LL-01 approvals... or like you , the HTHS of 3.5 and the near the high end of 100 C viscosity range for the 30 weight for my BMW engines.
There's a chart which is a work in progress. It lists 40 C, 100 C viscosity, and HTHS [ when available ]
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...e=0&fpart=5
I don't believe in running the full Oil Life Monitor distance.
Using a good synthetic 7000 miles -8000 miles is enough for me.
The tip about Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic having a LL-01 is a good tip, I wish I could find the Product Data sheet for this oil!
And I bet the Castrol HM would be fine for someone who doesn't want to spend for LL-01 approved oils, or Redline or Amsoil oil.
In my two BMW's I run either GC 0W-30 or Redline. I'd consider Mobil 1 0W-40 if I couldn't find the first two oils.
I think this thread shows that there are lots of ways to approach the finding an oil for the BMW, and feel that the engine is protected.
First off I would really like to thank everybody who has posted on this thread so far. Without you guys I would be totally lost! I would also like to thank the folks that offered to send me oil and additives, that goes above and beyond just giving me advice and I appreciate it very much.
Since I am going to be driving my car alot this next week I decided to go ahead and start an ARX cycle on it using Rotella T 15W-40. I am still deciding on an oil to go with after the ARX cycle because there are so many choices, but I am leaning toward the GC 0W-30 or the Amsoil 5W-40 European Formula.
Since I am going to be driving my car alot this next week I decided to go ahead and start an ARX cycle on it using Rotella T 15W-40. I am still deciding on an oil to go with after the ARX cycle because there are so many choices, but I am leaning toward the GC 0W-30 or the Amsoil 5W-40 European Formula.
Either would be a fine choice.
It would most likely be easier and be a sure bet to contact our Amsoil Sponsors and order the oil and have it delivered to you door rather than hunt down Castrol GC, which is becoming much more difficult to find in populated area's, no less your's.
It's a real b**ch to find an auto parts store that carries Castrol GC. And then you find out they have 3 quarts or have the "regular" American Castrol 0W-30 and don't know the difference.
Whimsey
Ya, that is a very good point. I think my choice would be the Amsoil. One other question I had which is somewhat off topic is: How should I be driving when running the ARX and Rotella T. I dont race my car but I do drive it pretty hard sometimes.(I love the way that car sucks me back in the seat!) Should I take it easy or just drive like normal?
Drive it normal and you could add the ARX to the Mobil 1 fill for the 1500 mile clean cycle....and use the Rotella 15W-40 or Rotella 'synthetic' 5W-40 for the 2000 mile rinse cycle.
As much as I hated to do it I went ahead and dumped the mobil 1 yesterday. I had about 1000 miles on it. I started up fresh with Rotella 15W-40 and I think I will use it through the whole cycle. I didnt know I could use the 5w-40 synthetic. Is that a group III oil?
15w-40 is ideal for warm temps in a Euro engine.
Yes, Shell Rotella T 5W-40 is a Group III synthetic.
The only reason to go with any 5w-40 is colder start temps or desire for longer change intervals. Personally, I see no need for synthetic oil, outside those two situations. As a matter of economics and performance, I feel that twice as many changes with dino oil that costs half as much as synth oil, yields a better result. Say 5000 miles on dino verses 10,000 on synth, the dino will give a better result for the same cost. Definately.
Sorry, no need for synth oil other than described, in a *non-turbo* engine.
In the ARX case, you are only running the oil for 2000 miles, so cheaper is better. Look at a synth 5w-40 or Hiu-Miles dino or synth for winter. Likely in Wyoming, you need a 5w (or 0w) oil, so the choices are 5w-40 or a thicker 5w-30 like GTX HM or MaxLife. 0w oils are more for turbos that need quick lubing in cold or 4cyls. A German 6cyl = 5w-40.
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