Car dying which oil Engine KNOCK (Honda Civic)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 16, 2006
Messages
22
Location
Utah
I have a friend that has a 2000 Honda Civic with a 1.6l and 5spd manual. The car has 105,000 miles. Apparently the girl driving it didn't put oil in it. The engine developed a loud knock, it never seized so it must haven't had been run dry. But is was run low enough to obviously start a knock. They said it still runs fine after they put oil back in. It just now has a knock. I am thinking of buying it from them for my daily commute with 3.00 a gallon fuel prices. I have 46 miles a day max speed 60 mph for 9 miles. I havent drove it yet to see if it could make these speeds. But I figured if it would it would be worth the 100-200 they want and drive her as long as she'll run. Question is which oil will help it run longer, since oil killed her what oil will prolong? Heavy ? Synthetic I am sure? but what weight ? Maybe something with lots of zddp, or even an additive like slob...........
 
I would buy it. The blue book on that car is about $7,000 so it would be worth fixing or buying a used engine.
 
Often times, a engine run low on oil will develop a knock at the wrist pins. If the bearings are good and the knock is caused by the wrist pins (one is all it takes to give it that nice diesel clatter) then the car will likely not suffer longevity.

I am certain the engine has lost a few years of life but I doubt that it's dead yet. Unfortunately, there is no lubricant that is going to stop a wrist pin knock. I'd use a mineral based HDEO and change it frequently. The splash that lubricates the wrist pins also lubricates the cylinder walls. You can bet that there is excessive wear there also. The greater film strength inherent to a 14cst oil will help.
 
Honda engines can also make knocking noises if they need a valve adjustment, keep that in mind as a possible option
smile.gif
It's pretty common, actually.
 
100 or 200. Jeez you could buy it and have and engine put in and have a very nice car.

I would do as the others say and and like third ye mentioned. Don't rule out something like lash adjustment.
 
I agree with others: just buy the car and put in a used engine or one of those JDMs and drive-on!

If the engine has suffered from severe maintenance neglect in the past (and now it has a knock), you bet you have to spend some serious $$$ if you want to rebuild it back to specifications. knock can be anything from worn main and con rod bearings (let's just say that all bearings need to be replaced), crankshaft needs to be machined and thow in 25 oversized bearings,camshaft and cam bearing journal may be worn as well...heckk! let's just get a used engine and live on.
 
I would seriously question purchasing a vehicle after a young girl (or young male) owned the car previous to me and had severely neglected the poor thing. I would without a doubt drop a new engine in there, no question about it. I'd worry to much about the current engine in there. My useless opinion.
 
Hi,

welcome.gif
from another person in Utah!

Ok, this is what I'd do;

1. Buy it for $100-$200

2. Sell it to me for $400

You just doubled your $$
banana.gif


Ok for real.

1. I'd go get some Pennzoil, Castrol or Valvoline HM/Maxlife conventional 10w-30 and a couple of Supertech filters and change the oil @ 1k miles for 2 ocis.

Then I'd run the same type of oil for 3k miles and see how it runs. Get a UOA and have Terry look at it.

THEN decide where your going with this. I'd bet that if its running well and not using alot of oil, it will be fine for many miles. If Terry thinks hitting the eject button on this engine is the way to go, grab one out of the junk yard from some U of U student who rearended someone and totaled their car.

I've heard alot of Hondas going down the road make alot of noises and keep going forever.
dunno.gif


Take care, Bill
patriot.gif
 
No kidding, $1-200? Wow, I'll take 4!
shocked.gif

I second the others on valve lash adjustment. If that turns out not to be the case, drive her till she seizes then get another engine. Find whatever diesel oil is on sale....or maybe Maxlife on sale.....
 
Drive it till it dies. Add some oil thickener just to see if it helps with the noise.
shocked.gif


Is the noise made worse by aceleration or loading? If yes suspect main bearing or piston skirt damage.

Worse on deceleration: suspect rod bearing or wrist pin damage.

Valvetrain noises are usually unaffected by engine loading, but can be affected by RPM even to the point of having a particular worst RPM for noise.

A really loose wrist pin or rod bearing can allow the piston top to "kiss" the cylinder head on the up stroke. The noise caused by this is usually an unmistakable and LOUD "death rattle". This "death rattle" is usually a short term prospect.

Good luck sir.

Rickey.
 
That is what i figured something heavier, 10-30 10-40 something with a good dose oz zddp, then maybe throw some slob into the mix. Anyone now where to find some.....or something similar.......I figured that for a 100 drive her when she dies sell it for a 100........
 
Other than heavier oil, the car needes all new fluids: transmision, gear, brake, clutch, coolant ...

If she did not have oil in engine, she may never change any other fluid in the car.
 
I'd be curious to see how far it would go; but I wouldn't be putting a lot of money into it, if you're only paying $100-200. I would change all other fluids, which if they can be done yourself, shouldn't cost too much $$$ - I would use just your basic fluids.
 
mechtech2 - You could part it out and come out with a huge profit, if that's the case. Even still, I wouldn't pass on this at all. It could also be a fun experiment
smile.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top