No I don't push the clutch in, I'll try that. Sometimes I do when it's real cold out, helps with the cold starts not turning all that transmission junk.
I'll look into the oil heaters, but I think synthetic oil will really help my situation. The engine manual suggests 5w40 below -20, which I see a lot.
I know someone that used to work there, Bill B., he was an electrical engineer.
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There are several manufactures for oil heaters. I'd just go to the local truck shop you buy your parts at and see if they have anything. Most heaters are not that expensive. I pay about $US100-125 for the 1500w heaters that I screwed into the oils pans on our Cummins that operate in very cold weather.
There has to be some type of Volvo factory oil heater as well, as there's 2 big blanks on the oil pan.
I was thinking... the best setup would be a heat exchanger that you could run coolant through. I already have an espar engine heater, I could just run coolant into the oil pan after it's gone into the engine. That way it's not taking any heat from the engine, just getting the "extra". I'd have to be 100% sure it's good though, coolant in oil is never good!
I'd be careful with trying to pipe coolant into the oil pan for a heater. With a synthetic oil, 0,5wX in the pan I'd start the aux coolant heater first. Warm the coolant a bit then start the truck and run it at about a 900-1000 RPM idle and let the oil cooler heat the oil, no extra coolant entry into the oil that way.
according to this, if there was bronze bushing or thrust washer wear, you'd see a 20:1 copper/tin ratio(tin is part of bronze correct), and we're above 100:1.
Also, I just sent in another sample with 11,000 kms on it. Get the results back friday.
