My new chain lube

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Very economical and works great!
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Any SAE30, 5W30, or 10W30 engine oil, dispensed by a cleaned Elmer's School Glue bottle. Lubed every other ride or so.

Thoughts? Or am I destroying my chain? But I guess anything is better than what I used to do...which was lube it once in a blue moon.
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Hey thats a great idea never thought of that. Makes it easier to apply. Just label it bike lube and its ready.

I usually use WD-40 or Seafoam deep creep to lube my bike chain and gears.
 
The only thing I can possibly see wrong with that idea is that regular motor oil is going to attract dirt more than dry film oil that is designed for chains. On a bicycle I can't imagine you destroying anything. There are oil cans out there that might be easier to use than a glue bottle.

Also, I am not sure what the glue bottle is made out of. If it is the wrong type of plastic it might eat through it. I wouldn't store it without laying down something underneath it (until you can determine if it can hold the oil).
 
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Dry lube keeps things cleaner .




Personally, I use White Lightning which is MUCH more difficult to remove than a standard wet lube, but does a good job.

For those out there, once you spray your chain, you should then wipe as much of the excess off as possible. The point it to get the lube in the chain, not on it.

I think the blend of motor oils is too thick to get the job done. WD40 isn't thick enough and is a terrible lube for extended use.
 
After years of trying just about every kind of chain specific lube I have finally given up on them. Now I use silicone spray lube on everything. Great success!
 
That might gunk up after it attracts dirt and it'll be difficult to clean.

That glue bottle might dispense the oil way too fast and over lube your chain. Which isn't a big deal since you can just wipe off the excess. WD-40 I found isn't very good for bike either. The oil is too light and attract too much dirt.

Personally, I like Tri-Flow, but here in the desert, it tends to attract more dirt than I'd like. I'm using Finish Line Dry which is good too and doesn't seem to attract as much dirt as Tri-Flow. White Lightning is great but it needs to be applied quite often. Usually, I had to reapply every 80-100 miles or so when I used it.
 
I use Proline, with very good results. You have to realize the parts that need the lube are inside the rollers, not the outside parts. So, after lubing, you really should try to wipe the outer parts of the link as dry as is reasonably quick to do so. That keeps the dirt attraction down a bit.
 
Tri-flow works well, too. I've even used a couple of different gun lubes...but, even though it seems counterintuitive, the gun lubes seem to attract more dirt...
 
i was wondering about silikroil plus silicone (in a spray can). seems like it would be a good choice. its light and would leave a thin coating of silicone.
 
Straight motor oil of any weight not a good idea for a bike chain. It is to thick to penetrate the pins, rollers, and bushings, where most chain wear occurs. Much better is to use a mixture of 4 parts odorless mineral spirits, and one part synthetic motor oil. Apply a couple of drops to each roller, wipe the chain with a clean rag and you are done. It is a good idea to do this the day prior to a ride, as the mineral spirits will have evaporated, leaving behind the oil, and allowing the chain to stay cleaner. Never use WD-40, as its lube properties fairly suck for a bike chain.
 
I'm starting to think that it might be cheaper for me to use the "wrong" lube (motor oil) and replace my chain more frequently than to buy the "correct" lube!
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You might consider trying the AMSOIL Heavy Duty MP.
Goes on wet, penetrates, dries, and leaves flexible film which does not attract dirt/dust.
Friend finds it the best he has tried on his hay baler chains, so I expect it would hold up fairly well on a bicycle.
 
Like many I have tried many kinds, wet, dry, and things in between. And there is no such thing as " it will not attract dirt" :)

The best kind of chain lube is the kind that can be cleaned off easily.
 
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For those out there, once you spray your chain, you should then wipe as much of the excess off as possible. The point it to get the lube in the chain, not on it.





I guess you have never used hot paraffin on your chain.
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bike chains are not under any praticularly hard stress compared to a motorcycle/dirtbike or industrial chain. they run at very low speeds. heat is not an issue. if you manage to remember to lube it once in a while you should get thousands of miles out of it.

the main issue on a bike chain is not so much wear but low rolling resistance. sence youre body is the engine, you want every bit of energy to turn that wheel and not be lost in the chain. a bit of chain life sacrificed to reduce friction is acceptable.
 
I have to disagree with Master Acid. Wear is a huge issue with bicycle chains, notably the narrow chains used with 9 and 10 speed cassette drive trains. A worn chain will quickly wear out an expensive cassette. I use the home brew I mention in an above post no more than every 200 miles, or right after a ride in the rain.

SPIKE
 
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