2007 Poll - Are you using Synthetic?

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Buster - you do realize that Amsoil saying they have received 20+ CLAIMS a year is NOT the same as Al saying Amsoil CAUSES 20+ engine failures a year. You do see the difference, dont you? I believe the article stated that most of the claims were fraudulant and unfounded. Amsoil does make good on their warranty occasionally mostly for PR. The oil was never at fault. Check with the BBB and you will see no complaints about Amsoil products or warranty.

Amsoil has performed thousands of UOA's showing their products perform for the extended mileage intervals and have been stating this for 35 years and have not had the oil cause a problem yet. I've provided this link for a UOA from the Texas State Police where they ran it for 23,572 miles and the oil looked great! Here it is again. http://www.upmpg.com/tdps_saves.htm . Look how much better the wear per mile at 23,572 miles with AMSOIL was compared to petroleum oil at 1,742. About 10 times lower per mile values.

API has stated that 1 in 20 of their API Certified was so far off-spec, that it could cause serious short and long term engine problems.
 
I always used dino oil and 3k changes until I had an engine that developed a rod knock and a ticking lifter around 100k miles. I had only owned the car since it had 58k on it but I switched to Mobil 1 after that and kept at 3k mile OCI for all my cars. After finding bitog I've started doing UOA because they are fun and informative. My last 6k mile UOA on my '94 looked good so I'm going to go 7k this time. I'm going to use my UOA's to see how far I can stretch my oil changes out safely. I had never mixed oil before but I tried it and my '94 seems happier mixed a little thicker. I did use some dino on my Auto-Rx cycles. Other than that it is synthetic all the way.

'94 Grand Prix - 3.5 Qts Mobil 1 5W-30 & 1 Qt of Castrol Syntec 5W-50 (will change at 7k this time)
'01 Grand Prix - 4.5 Qts Mobil 1 10W-30 (yearly changes, low miles)
'96 Buick Roadmaster Wagon - 5 Qts of Castrol Syntec 0W-30 GC Gold
 
Currently using dealership bulk dino.

After all of the reading I have done on here, I am debating whether to stick with dino or switch to synthetic for longer OCIs.

I will definitely use synthetic in the winter.
 
My car is using dino because I add a quart every other week (1000 miles). Currently doing autorx, when thats over i'll be doing 5K OCIs on havoline.

My sisters car gets driven only 4 or 5 times every month. We put dino in there too. We change it about twice a year.

My dad drives maybe a few hundred miles a month, he likes to use the best but was using dino and frams for years. He now uses pure one and mobil 1. He'll change it out every year. I'm still trying to get him to order amsoil.

My moms car gets mobil 1 also, if my dad were to order amsoil im sure she would get it too. She'll get changes once a year.
 
I'm using synthetic all year round as well... Mobil 1 5w-30 SM right now in all my cars, which is probably group 3 but does the job for my 5k oil changes.
 
As someone who has run BOTH Syn and Conventional in the SAME engines and HAS run UOAs for both oils, I am running conventional due to a better (lower) wear metals and cost per mile.

Since I've had many engines make 200k with ease (and now 1 over 300k) with yesterdays oils, I see no need to spend $4, $5, and up per quart for oil when I can do the whole oil change for $5 incl filter.

Todays SL/SM conventional oils get just as good MPG and keep deposits low as syn does. I see Syn for people who have to run syn (per the MFG) or for long OCis. But they pay more for it.

Just change the oil and all is good!
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I've spent hundreds of $$ for UOAs to post FACTS here and prove my point. My last UOA had a TBN of 4.4 after almost 6k miles running through the coldest time of the year (when you get the most wear for startups which SYN is spose to be the best for) in a timing chain 4 cyl motor.

If Conventional oil has so much wear for start ups over syn, where are the high metals in the UOA?

There are people here who have NEVER ran a UOA. But they are getting the "best" oil using xx brand.

How do they know?
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They don't.
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I buy syn oil for diffs and manual transmissions since the oil sits in there for a long time. But, as I found out on my last OCI with Mobil 1 gear oil, some syns are ALOT better than others.

Take care, bill
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PS: Bryan, I agree 1000%. I'm sick of this too.... But it seems that very few care..
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Synthetic for our daily driver cars, but mostly because I can get such amazing deals on it by following the tips on BITOG. Just picked up six quarts of Valvoline Synpower for $.99 each after rebate. Last year got several batches of Valvoline for free after rebate. Also have picked up clearance sales at Autozone in the past which ranged from $.33-$2.00/quart for various name brand synthetics. Heck, I even scored 10 quarts of the famous GC for $.33 each some time ago.

With all of the sales, rebates and clearances I end up paying less for my synthetic oils than the guy who just walks into WalMart for store brand conventional oils pays!

If the stash ever runs dry I will probably switch back to Chevron Supreme at under $1/quart from Kragen's regular sales.

Also, I'm comfortable running the full mfg. recommended oil change interval on our modern cars when using synthetic. I'm not in the 3,000 mile OCI on synthetic club!
 
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As someone who has run BOTH Syn and Conventional in the SAME engines and HAS run UOAs for both oils, I am running conventional due to a better (lower) wear metals and cost per mile.

Just change the oil and all is good!

I've spent hundreds of $$ for UOAs to post FACTS here and prove my point.


I like your post Bill. They are low on #@$%! and high on experience.
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Synthetic, absolutely! BITOG inspired me to do some real research into lubricants and filters, and there's a treasure trove of information here on the board too.

I use synthetic in every engine I have now. OK, it might be overkill in the lawn mower, but I've seen a distinct improvement in every other engine.
 
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There are enough Amsoil websites on the web without making this a mouthpiece for a non paying shill. I am sick of it.




I'm sick of it as well.

Tim, Amsoil is a very high quality oil, however, it is not the only one. The gap has closed since SM came along. There are a few UOA's that show decent results with Amsoil at longer drain intervals, but most are not that good.

Nothing wrong with using an API SM oil changing it every 7.5k miles.
 
Synthetic in the three cars and changed to Blend on the truck with 165K.Had some not so good Oil reports along the way but overall it worked itself out to be very good on all 4.
 
Im using synthetics only since discovering BITOG and I've been buying up all of the synthetic that I can on close out for any store that I hear about. I do purchace dino oil as well. I paid about a $1.00-$2.00 per qt for most of the synthetic oil and about .49-.59 cents per qt for the dino. Although I've paid as little as .75 cents per qt for 15 qts of Havoline Syn. Most of the syn oil in my stash is Mobil 1(24 qts for a buck each),Pennziol Platinum(12 qts for 1.99 ea) Super Tech Syn(15 qts at $1.25 each) and a whole bunch of Havoline dino "CHEAP". Recently purchaces Mobil 7500 and Valvloline DuraBlend for .49 cents each at Adv Auto on the close out shelves.
 
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