BIO 100 in Ukraine

[Primus]

Want to share with my impressions. This Saturday I could not resist and tried a new fuel called "BIO 100". This is our Ukrainian version of an alternate fuel. No idea why manufacturer calls it "BIO 100" if it has RON 106 and MON 91. The fuel is made of 60 % of absolute (anhydrous) etanol (bio), 30 % of gasoline (stable, made of natural gas, light fractions) and 10 % of MTBE (or ETBE).
Though I put only 10 liters of BIO 100 into the tank with 30-35 liters of RON 95, if I can call it "for safety reason", my first impressions are very positive these 3 days: engine is running more smoothly (less noise), accelarates slightly faster and seems became more tolerant to a choice of gear. However, I still have some worry about a stability of a new composition (I mean BIO 100 + RON 95) and certain aggresivity of etanol on fuel system. According to the manufacturer they found that only at above 50 % of etanol the composition remains stable for a long time and does not becomes differenciated. The manufacturer also claims that tests showed no car modifications are required for BIO 100. But I think this claim is quite doubtful.

No clue whether or not it will have an impact on Mazda6, but I shall consider this experience as very useful. At least I know that nothing will happen at once.

Anybody knows at which concentration etanol would be tolerated by rubber/plastic materials and how to offset a corrosive effect on metal parts ? Thank you in advance.

 

[wileyE]

Personally I wouldn't experiment with that mix unless it was the only fuel left in town. % of that could cause problems? Going to 10% initially created problems and most engine manufactures still recommend no more than 10%. IMHO they would recommend 0% if there weren't certain markets stuck using it. I'm not a big fan of eth or mtbe, so my opinion may be biased.

 

[unDummy]

Mazda's run rich. Running a little alcohol upto 10% would help. 10% alcohol is considered safe. Total alcohol is MTBE+ETBE+Ethanol!

Math time:
Full tank 40-45 liters of fuel = (6L ethanol + 3L gasoline +1L E/MBTE) + 30-35 liters top-off gasoline.
Thats ~15-18% alcohol.

Cut BIO-100 dosage in half. ~5 liters is the most that you should used with 35-40 liters of gasoline! Use less if RON-95 is doped with alcohol.

Alcohol also has less lubricity. If you feel that your vehicle runs fine with 10L of BIO-100, then you need to add an ounce or two of fuel lubricity additive(2 stroke oil) with each tank. 1-liter of biodiesel per tank would also add lubricity.

I run 10% ethanol with no issues because it is mandatory where I live.
http://www.e10unleaded.com/mythbusters.htm

20% ethanol showed increase wear.
http://www.environment.gov.au/atmosphere...bs/gasoline.pdf

 

[Primus]

Thank you for your recommendations and interesting and useful links.

I didn't have an intention to make an experiment with the car, but my curiosity is overweighted. It happens. Well, what's done, it's done. Now, after 150 km and 2 x 20 l fills, the dosage is about 5-6 %. Interesting that engine behaviour did not change with a drop from 18 % to 12 %, but I could notice it when the concentration dropped from 12 to 6. However, it still smells, but this smell resembles more to isopropanol than to vodka.

Seems the best application would be to use BIO 100 as an octane booster. Mazda6 tank is 63 l, so 5-10 liters for a full tank will be enough.

unDummy,
what do you think about a risk of stratification ? Sorry, I don't know what's the right word for this process. Last time I used the word "differenciate", but seems it is not correct one.

 

[oilyriser]

There should already be some agents added, such as isopropyl alcohol, which help prevent stratification in case water gets into the mixture. You could test some, by adding water, and see how much it can tolerate before it separates.

 

[Primus]

Thank you, oilyriser, for your piece of advice. Shall try.