Oil Recommendation for Low tension ringed LT1

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I have a stroker LT1 that was built using low tension rings. The engine uses about a quart every thousand miles. It gets black pretty quickly, due to fuel I am sure getting past the rings. The compression is fine, 195-200psi, and the engine makes good power, fires right up and plugs are fine. But the oil is Mobil one, 10w30 or 10w40. Either makes no difference to me, but I have been looking into Redline or Royal Purple now. It has a hydraulic roller cam, roller rockers etc so it is a little louder and has the familiar ticking from the lifters. If an oil can quiet this down, great, and reduce oil consumption, even better. Thanks in advance.
 
Steve:
I recommend and personally use Redline 10w-40. In my race application, my stock LT1 exhibited the least wear using Redline 10W-40 and the lowest oil operating temps during track use, which may be indicative of less blowby.
Sidney
 
In general, low tension rings reduce friction on the non-power strokes of the engine. They seal well with the gas pressure behind them under load.
But, less outward pressure when not loaded will cause less oil control, and oil usage.
High performance builders aim for some oil usage as an indicator that they don't have too much tension in the rings [thus negating their effect]. I have heard 1-2,000 miles/qt as a goal. Not too bad for a big, high HP V8.
So, expect some oil burning/use. It's not all bad.
 
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It has a hydraulic roller cam, roller rockers etc so it is a little louder and has the familiar ticking from the lifters.




There shouldn't be any ticking at all with hydraulic lifters; but then again, you were using mobil 1 . . .

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My vote is 10/40 as well. Redline would be prefered. I and others have had problems with both mobil 1 and royal purple with built motors using oil.
 
I would try a good 15w 40 HDEO Such as Delo 400 or Mobil 1300 in it. If your getting fuel in your oil better to change it often as you most likely know.
 
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I have a stroker LT1 that was built using low tension rings.




I don't know how low, low is here. But the vast majority of factory built gasoline engines use low tension rings for fuel economy purposes. It's one of the major factors that allow big V8s like the LS1 and others to get 30 mpg on the highway under ideal conditions.

But back to your original question, the actual ring/piston and cylinder surface design will influence to a large degree how much blow-by you will get. The original LT1 piston rings had flutter issues at high RPMs. This was fixed when the LT4 arrived and were actually backed spec'd for LT1s. If you changed to forged pistons from hypereutectic pistons you'll likely have increased clearances due to the higher expansion rate of the forged pistons. Ring design may have drastically changed from stock too. In short, the standard LT1 solutions may or may not apply here, and you may have to experiment a bit. I'd probably start with something like 0w30 GC or RedLine 10w30 or others with similar properties, and then move up in viscosity to see if things improve. You best bet is to employ someone like Terry so you can get an accurate, professional read on how each oil choice is performing. He may also have some suggestions on a starting point that buck the trend here.

Accurate oil pressure and oil temp gauges are also a real asset when trying to optimize oil selection.

Best Of Luck.
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Ditto what like a rock said...and...what 427Z06 said, except I don't trust Redline from my personal experience in another engine (seal incompatibility). But that's just my experience.
 
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I would try a good 15w 40 HDEO Such as Delo 400 or Mobil 1300 in it. If your getting fuel in your oil better to change it often as you most likely know.




I would concur here and even consider a syn like rotella. Similar criteria to many GM big block marine engines (Horizons) that have forged pistons and experience tons of blow by at cold start. Lots of fuel dilution and many guys just use Pennzoil 40w Marine because there is no winter weather start issues.
 
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...except I don't trust Redline from my personal experience in another engine (seal incompatibility). But that's just my experience.




You have any details? I ask because this will be the first time I heard of anyone having seal incompatibility issues only with RedLine while having no issues with any other synthetic. And I've seen RedLine used in boatload of applications.
 
427: In '02, bought new '02 Subaru Impreza RS. Changed factory oil at 3k mi. or so. Then Valvoline Synpower 10W-30 for a few 4k-5k intervals. It burnt 3/8 qt/1k miles whole time. Switched to Redline 10W-30 for many 4k-5k intervals. Consumption consistently 0.8 qts/1k miles. Back to Valv. Syn. 10W-30 for few intervals...consumption back to 3/8 qt/1k miles. Back to Redline...consumption shot up again. It was an internally clean engine so no sludge or varnishing issues.

Also, put in Redline gear oil in tranny. It leaked out both transaxle seals at a significant dripping rate over several weeks. Changed it to Valv. Syn gear oil and leaking immediately stopped.
 
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427: In '02, bought new '02 Subaru Impreza RS. Changed factory oil at 3k mi. or so. Then Valvoline Synpower 10W-30 for a few 4k-5k intervals. It burnt 3/8 qt/1k miles whole time. Switched to Redline 10W-30 for many 4k-5k intervals. Consumption consistently 0.8 qts/1k miles. Back to Valv. Syn. 10W-30 for few intervals...consumption back to 3/8 qt/1k miles. Back to Redline...consumption shot up again. It was an internally clean engine so no sludge or varnishing issues.




Well...I wouldn't necessarily call that a seal issue. Any number of other reasons for increased consumption, and we see that with all types/brands of oils.

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Also, put in Redline gear oil in tranny. It leaked out both transaxle seals at a significant dripping rate over several weeks. Changed it to Valv. Syn gear oil and leaking immediately stopped.




Hmmm, never heard that one before. Do all Subaru Impreza owners experience the same leaking issue with RedLine in their transaxles?

I don't see any complaints here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499177


If this is a hit or miss proposition, then it looks like we must also claim that M1 has HUGE seal incompatibility issues, since we read about that stuff leaking out of all kinds of engines on a regular basis.
 
Come on, JAG. You can't leave a cow pile like that in the middle of the dance floor and expect no one to point to it.
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I love that saying.
I suspect the huge consistent oil consumption jump was from leaking past valve seals...either due to polarity (creep) or due to reversible changes caused to the valve seals. It's either that or past rings but there is no good reason why it would be that. Regardless, it sucked.

As for tranny leaks, I don't care what other's experienced. It leaked big time for me. ME is all I care about! You'd feel the same I'm sure. It really sucked.

Other oils (like M1 and other synthetics) have leaked externally in sludged engines or engines with dried out or worn out seals. That's different than my case.
 
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I love that saying.




Good. I worked extra hard to come up with something entertaining.

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I suspect the huge consistent oil consumption jump was from leaking past valve seals...either due to polarity (creep) or due to reversible changes caused to the valve seals. It's either that or past rings but there is no good reason why it would be that. Regardless, it sucked.




Yes, too much sucking can be bad. Then again, if you're the suckee, maybe not. Seriously, I'd think we'd hear/see more reports of it if it was a seal incompatibility issue as Suburaus aren't exactly exotic and rare.

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As for tranny leaks, I don't care what other's experienced. It leaked big time for me. ME is all I care about! You'd feel the same I'm sure. It really sucked.




See above, especially the part about being the suckee.
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Other oils (like M1 and other synthetics) have leaked externally in sludged engines or engines with dried out or worn out seals. That's different than my case.




Actually, there was a case just like yours with M1 in a new GM/Chevy engine in a truck.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=760870

But even in that case I believe most would attribute his problem to the vehicles and not the oil.
 
I don't think M1 has any seal issues at all. It wouldn't be OEM fill in so many vehicles if that were the case.

In some cases, M1 will expose seals that were worn/corroded from a buildup from previously used conventional oils. However, I think with SM, these types of cases should slowly subside.

JAG, I will get that qt to you this week! I apologize for the delay.
 
That guy in the other thread...if I were him, I'd not use Mobil 1 again after all that. It did not work out well for him. Getting burnt sucks. Avoiding it despite 99% of others not getting burnt is human nature. I threw up on mac and cheese as a kid. I couldn't eat it for another 10 years after that.
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At least we know that Mobil oils have to pass industry seal tests. I don't know that Redline does. Maybe it does, but I don't know it because it isn't certified to API or ACEA.

buster, thanks!
 
hey, buster is good friends with Dave over at RedLine. Have him ask Dave how they test for seal compatibility.

Also, what ASTM test does API use to test SM/SL/SJ oils for seal compatibility?
 
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