not to happy about the coolant problem w/this
01 ChevyBlazer 6100 mi on Ams 10/30
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I like their recommendation to go short until you get this figured out. Use a good, basic dino like Havo, Superflo, or Formula Shell. Continue perhaps for two short OCIs AFTER you get the leak fixed to rinse out any residue.
This report is a poster chile counter-argument to those who claim UOAs are a waste for individual, private vehicle owners. Fortunately, you caught what could easily, and quickly, become a disaster, probably before any enduring harm was done. Without UOA, your engine could have melted down, and it would likely be chalked up as another example of poor GM quality. Well, I guess this IS a quality problem (maybe), but at least now, YOU get to dictate the terms of the engagement, not the other way around. Best of luck with this one. Please let us know how it goes.
This report is a poster chile counter-argument to those who claim UOAs are a waste for individual, private vehicle owners. Fortunately, you caught what could easily, and quickly, become a disaster, probably before any enduring harm was done. Without UOA, your engine could have melted down, and it would likely be chalked up as another example of poor GM quality. Well, I guess this IS a quality problem (maybe), but at least now, YOU get to dictate the terms of the engagement, not the other way around. Best of luck with this one. Please let us know how it goes.
Triple_Se7en
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... or you can buy the GM Coolant tabs to help alleviate the problem.
... or you can change your oil every 2-3K with the cheapest SM/GF-4 oil you can find on sale.
... or you can change your oil every 2-3K with the cheapest SM/GF-4 oil you can find on sale.
yeah I've been looking into that. there were some special ones for the Caddy engines I've been trying to hunt down.
I have a '99 GMC Sonoma with the same engine and same issue. While the potassium and sodium levels never got as high as in your engine, I had 1 UOA where the lead wear was at 20ppm or 5.49ppm/1K miles (actually higher than yours). I did two things, and the lead wear is now down to 5ppm or 0.90ppm/1K miles in the last UOA. Those two things were: switched to G-05 rather than DexCool, and used a sealer recommended by a reputable local radiator shop. The sealer that seemed to do the job for me is Irontite All-Weather Seal. A number of folks on BITOG have also had success with Bars Leak.
Over the long run, new intake manifold gaskets are needed for both our vehicles. If it's a small leak, the sealer approach seems to work, but I do UOAs every oil change to keep an eye on the situation.
Over the long run, new intake manifold gaskets are needed for both our vehicles. If it's a small leak, the sealer approach seems to work, but I do UOAs every oil change to keep an eye on the situation.
thanks for the input, I'll have to find that Irontite. was going to do a flush in the spring anyway, any particular flush you used.
*off topic*
do you also have the multiple mis fire injector problem that is also known in these engines.
*off topic*
do you also have the multiple mis fire injector problem that is also known in these engines.
I have had the gasket changed twice on my 02 silverado 4.3 (now at 122K). My observation of the gaskets tells me that stopleak is not going to be a reliable fix. The leaks are due to cracking of the plastic gasket surround and crushing and breaking of the rubber "O ring" in the middle of the gasket. The problem appears to be related to over torqueing the gasket, it only takes 10 foot lbs.
10 FTLBs man that not a lot. my manual for my 91 says 35 FTLBs but thats a different intake all together.
will have to do some more research on this problem.
what was GM thinking when they designed this gasket.
will have to do some more research on this problem.
what was GM thinking when they designed this gasket.
When you repair this engine, do a little research on gaskets. Felpro has a gasket that is designed better than the GM replacement. It costs significantly more than the other gaskets, but when installed correctly is said to be a permanent fix.
Given that labor is the lion's share of the cost of this repair, saving a few dollars on lower intake manifold gaskets is real folly.
I had my LIM gaskets repaired with the felpro's on my previous 5.7L gm engine (your 4.3 is 3/4 of this engine and shares the same LIM issues) and it was still not leaking after 2 years 30k miles. UOA's proved this.
Given that labor is the lion's share of the cost of this repair, saving a few dollars on lower intake manifold gaskets is real folly.
I had my LIM gaskets repaired with the felpro's on my previous 5.7L gm engine (your 4.3 is 3/4 of this engine and shares the same LIM issues) and it was still not leaking after 2 years 30k miles. UOA's proved this.
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I've been going in circles w/my extended warranty company about this. they wont cover the repair so I said if the engine blows up you'll cover it, they said no you already know you have a problem. I told them they were missing the point. IF I didn't do the analysis and it blew up.puzzled and not to sure what to tell me as its not on their cue card he referred me to another # to call. haven't done that yet. there is a known lower intake manifold problem on these engines from 96-up seems to have to do w/gasket material not liking DEX stuff. cost of the job is $300-$600 depending where you go.going to inquire at the stealership this week.
yip, typical lower intake gasket problem.
Get it fixed through the extended warranty, it is there for a reason. they can't deny your claim.
That or your engine will be toast soon.
I found 2 of them for the 4.3. I would assume you talking about the $80 one, permadry something or other right.
had a good look at the engine yesterday and there is DEX #@$%! all on top of my manifold I defiantly have a leak of some sort. looks like the t-stat housing going to look further today. #@$%! plastic #@$%!.
Check out the demise of my 4.3l:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post253073
I figured it was the intake mani but it turned out to be a head gasket. Short oci's didnt help. I would get this fixed asap.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post253073
I figured it was the intake mani but it turned out to be a head gasket. Short oci's didnt help. I would get this fixed asap.
Santo I hope mine doesn't go the way yours did. this is my daily. I have coolant all over the top of my manifold right now. going to order the $80 Felpro and possibly the upgraded injector spider(it has to come out anyway).that would solve 2 problems.
well right now the truck is down using the 91 hot rod for now.neighbors love when I start that truck.was getting ready for a tune up checking the plug and wires, found out the last place that worked on the truck was too lazy to change 2 of my plugs(1&3). in addition to that the metal clips on the wires have corroded they're only a yr old. my friends wonder why I do my own work still, gee I wonder.
well right now the truck is down using the 91 hot rod for now.neighbors love when I start that truck.was getting ready for a tune up checking the plug and wires, found out the last place that worked on the truck was too lazy to change 2 of my plugs(1&3). in addition to that the metal clips on the wires have corroded they're only a yr old. my friends wonder why I do my own work still, gee I wonder.
had my LIM gasket's done as well as new FI spider,cost @$700.
ran first oil after the work about 200 mi changed out as a flush. now running Shell Rotella T 10/30 for 2K w/Wix filter then off to Black Stone to see how its doing. hope to go back to my Ams if all checks out well.
ok time for an update here.
ran the oil after work was done for 100 miles and drained. put in bulk Castrol 10/30 at the quick lube joint around the corner. left it in a little too long for my liking but it was wet and cold for a while. the current fill is AMS 10/30.
will make a separate post for this UOA
ran the oil after work was done for 100 miles and drained. put in bulk Castrol 10/30 at the quick lube joint around the corner. left it in a little too long for my liking but it was wet and cold for a while. the current fill is AMS 10/30.
will make a separate post for this UOA
I'd assume it's the same stuff.
I forgot to mention that the bulk oil was dosed w/LC20 to help clean out what was left behind from the work.
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