Bought some of this today. 2 packs @ $0.99 pack:
http://www.permatex.com/products/automot...iper_Lube_1.htm
Right stuff?
TIA.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automot...iper_Lube_1.htm
Right stuff?
TIA.
Anti-squeal grease for brake pads
- Thread starter The Critic
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that will work fine, i prefer the stuff that soaks into the pad itself instead.
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That's the correct high-temperature grease for the caliper guide pins.
What squeals is usually the brake pad backing moving or vibrating in the caliper. You want to apply some anti squeal compound, which I believe to be silicone adhesive. You apply a thin layer and let it dry to the touch (maybe 10 minutes) before installing the pad. Look for a bright orange 8 oz (?) plastic bottle at Kragen. The brand escapes me at the moment, but I think Permatex has Disc Brake Quiet in single use pouches. Use either stuff sort of like shown here, only not that sloppily.
As for pads that squeal on the discs, oh well. Good luck with that one.
What squeals is usually the brake pad backing moving or vibrating in the caliper. You want to apply some anti squeal compound, which I believe to be silicone adhesive. You apply a thin layer and let it dry to the touch (maybe 10 minutes) before installing the pad. Look for a bright orange 8 oz (?) plastic bottle at Kragen. The brand escapes me at the moment, but I think Permatex has Disc Brake Quiet in single use pouches. Use either stuff sort of like shown here, only not that sloppily.
As for pads that squeal on the discs, oh well. Good luck with that one.
Well, the back of the packet says explicitly: "Apply to the back of brake pads to eliminate squeal," so I thought I have the right stuff...or not?
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Well, the link you gave us says:
If it says on the package you can use it on the pad backing, then you can use it for that. I use this stuff (You made me go into my garage!):
As I said, it's very similar to a silicone adhesive and I'm almost certain that's what it is.
If it says on the package you can use it on the pad backing, then you can use it for that. I use this stuff (You made me go into my garage!):
As I said, it's very similar to a silicone adhesive and I'm almost certain that's what it is.
Kestas
Staff member
There are many different types of anti-squeal compounds. Mori mentioned one that most of us are experienced with. Some manufacturers use stainless steel shims. Mercedes uses shims and a paste, which I reverse-engineered and found it is little more than copper-based neverseize. I looked at the MSDS of the Permatex product you linked and see it is basically molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) and thickener in a thick petroleum base.
Let us know how well it works and how long it lasts.
Let us know how well it works and how long it lasts.
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I believe Wurth also has a non-curing (copper?) paste anti-squeal. Even Plastilube can supposedly be used on the brake pad backing. How long is that greasy stuff going to last? It attracts dirt and probably washes out. I'd rather go with the type of anti-squeal that cures.
This is the stuff I used to stop the horrible squealing on my Mazda3 brakes:
http://www.permatex.com/products/automot...Brake_Quiet.htm
I got the single-use pouches. It has been over 2 years and it's still working good.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automot...Brake_Quiet.htm
I got the single-use pouches. It has been over 2 years and it's still working good.
JHZR2
Staff member
I like that red gunk that Mori showed in his picture - the CRC stuff...
Works great, many times... try not to get too much on you
JMH
Works great, many times... try not to get too much on you
JMH
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Quote:
http://www.permatex.com/products/automot...Brake_Quiet.htm
Seems to be similar to the CRC product:
Critic, check again what you bought: Permatex Disc Brake Quiet or Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube.
Where's labman when you need him?
Mori, I find it interesting that the Permatex grease has petroleum products in it since the current brake "bible" says petroleum should be kept far away from brake components.
On my recent brake job, I fell for the following new propaganda: Not to use glue type anti-squeel products:
http://www.salemboysauto.com/salem-faqs/default.asp?Action=Q&ID=67
"Extensive testing has proven that what you want is a movement of the pad...to release the dynamic stress that builds in the friction material. When deceleration occurs and stick_slip generates that deadly harmonic energy, it must be dissipated and unfortunately there are only two paths for it to go. One is back through the rotor (that is why you must put a solid based lubricant on the spindle faces before reinstalling the rotor) and the other is, out through the back of the pad. If you glue it down you actually turns it into a magnet (higher density) for the energy to collect in, where as if it is loose an free it becomes more like a piece of wood in nature and hat dull, dead, dampening object has a harder time holding the frequency it is flooded with.
One area I am especially interest in having you consider, is your use of the "glue" type product on the back of the brake pads. I know you alluded to your preference to glue over grease but I wanted to mention that all European and now most every American brake manufacture (Raybestos, Wagner, Bendix, Autospecialty, Qualitee, Performance Friction, etc, etc, etc) frown on a glue type product for pad backs. What they do specify is moly based synthetic lubricant that allow the pad to move freely, wear evenly and also dissipate heat and energy properly. (See our original OE Approved Pastelub 2400ºF Synthetic "Dry-Film" Brake Lubricant on our website, www.gwrauto.com.)"
I have tons of other information if anyone is interested. Bendix has a new brake lube product out called Ceram Lube.
It seems that a good way to do things is to use a high temp sythetic grease for the pins/bushings and a high solids moly paste for the components exposed to the weather.
On the other hand, people have been getting away with Sil-Glyde and anti-seize on brake for years, so who knows???
On my recent brake job, I fell for the following new propaganda: Not to use glue type anti-squeel products:
http://www.salemboysauto.com/salem-faqs/default.asp?Action=Q&ID=67
"Extensive testing has proven that what you want is a movement of the pad...to release the dynamic stress that builds in the friction material. When deceleration occurs and stick_slip generates that deadly harmonic energy, it must be dissipated and unfortunately there are only two paths for it to go. One is back through the rotor (that is why you must put a solid based lubricant on the spindle faces before reinstalling the rotor) and the other is, out through the back of the pad. If you glue it down you actually turns it into a magnet (higher density) for the energy to collect in, where as if it is loose an free it becomes more like a piece of wood in nature and hat dull, dead, dampening object has a harder time holding the frequency it is flooded with.
One area I am especially interest in having you consider, is your use of the "glue" type product on the back of the brake pads. I know you alluded to your preference to glue over grease but I wanted to mention that all European and now most every American brake manufacture (Raybestos, Wagner, Bendix, Autospecialty, Qualitee, Performance Friction, etc, etc, etc) frown on a glue type product for pad backs. What they do specify is moly based synthetic lubricant that allow the pad to move freely, wear evenly and also dissipate heat and energy properly. (See our original OE Approved Pastelub 2400ºF Synthetic "Dry-Film" Brake Lubricant on our website, www.gwrauto.com.)"
I have tons of other information if anyone is interested. Bendix has a new brake lube product out called Ceram Lube.
It seems that a good way to do things is to use a high temp sythetic grease for the pins/bushings and a high solids moly paste for the components exposed to the weather.
On the other hand, people have been getting away with Sil-Glyde and anti-seize on brake for years, so who knows???
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Used the CRC product Mori is showing for years with reasonably good results. Problem that sometimes developes is that the thousands of pounds per square inch that brake systems deveop will sometimes cause piston to "cut" product. Used the product rpn453 lists for a time also with acceptable results (mostly too expensive for day in day out use). Have used product Critic started this thread about for the past several years with best overall results. When it says for application to piston it's refering to edge that contacts shoe NOT internally. That's the same as applying to back of pad. This grease product works GREAT!!! for eliminating noise! I'm refering to using it 3-6 sometimes 10 brake jobs weekly. Hi temp enough it doesn't melt out (unless piston sticks, that will take your mind completely off noise issue!) Will not squeeze out due to brake application. Best option at this time. Mori's CRC product ain't bad, if I was doing a set for myself and had some laying around I'd use it enstead fo going out to buy something else. Same is true of other Permatex product. But untill something else comes down the tubes I'll
be using grease.
Bob
be using grease.
Bob
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That adhesive type anti-break squeal is certainly allowing the pad to move a little. It's after all a flexible compound. If that's not state of the art anymore, so be it. I'll look into it.
As for grease in there, I live by the ocean and would not want sand and salt grind away between the caliper and pad backing plate. And trust me, sand gets in anywhere.
As for grease in there, I live by the ocean and would not want sand and salt grind away between the caliper and pad backing plate. And trust me, sand gets in anywhere.
Critic - As mentioned, that stuff is a lube for brake components. It helps prevent corrosion, too.
The stuff that dries like RTV [but is a different elastomer] works well on brake pad backs to stop squealing. I DON'T let it dry first, as there would be a build up between the pad and piston that would give a squishy feel, and movement that wasn't designed to be there when the brakes are applied.
The stuff that dries like RTV [but is a different elastomer] works well on brake pad backs to stop squealing. I DON'T let it dry first, as there would be a build up between the pad and piston that would give a squishy feel, and movement that wasn't designed to be there when the brakes are applied.
I've had the best luck the the CRC spray-on anti-squeal on the back of the pads and Permatex nickel-based anti-seize on the guides. I have some of the special permatex brake lube stuff, but when I put the disc conversion on the XJ I slashered it all over a bunch of the moving parts, and after about 6 months it was completely gone, as if someone washed it off with solvent. In my experience the anti-seize tends to stick around better. My experience is in the extreme salt conditions of NY, and I do some stream crossings etc. with the Jeep, so YMMV.
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I don't know how much goo you guys slather on there, but I've never applied more than a very thin layer, and there's never been any squishiness. If you do not let the stuff skin over and dry to the touch before installing the pad, you might as well not apply anything, because the goo will get squeezed out and nothing's going to stay between contact surfaces.
I used this on my last brake job (rotors and drums) and am very happy with it. No queeks yet.
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Here's what ATE recommends: Plastilube (by Henkel, Loctite, Teroson, ATE):
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Wurth makes good stuff.
I found out Audi sells their own version anti-squeal grease: Plastilube Moly3 high temperature grease, Audi P/N ZVP 264 103
I don't know if that's regular Plastilube. If it is, then this explains the price of Plastilube.
I found out Audi sells their own version anti-squeal grease: Plastilube Moly3 high temperature grease, Audi P/N ZVP 264 103
I don't know if that's regular Plastilube. If it is, then this explains the price of Plastilube.
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