Factory jacking points - repair

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JHZR2

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Hi,

like most unibody vehicles, there is a specific jack point that should be used - that typically has a reenforcement to it.

Honda (my fiancee's integra) has a semi lousy implementation, butmy BMW is about the worst - it has a strong reinforced point flush with the side sills, but then there is a small metal lip just past that to the inside, where the factory jack 'hooks' to for stability. Since this is tough to visualize, think of a honda, which has a 'v' in the top of its scissors jack that mates to a piece of metal that sticks vertically downward... both cars are more or less the same... hopefully this will help:


metal from car unibody ----> ||

mating position for factory jack --> \/
---

So, that vertical piece of metal is bent on many of the points. I am always super careful, and in fact only use the factory jack (but if I have to roll under, the cars are either up on ramps, or the work gets done in the shop), if I have to lift the car on one side for tire swaps, etc.

So... say the metal is bent inward. I can see that the rubber undercoaing/corrosion protection is cracked/compromised. Not good... Ive been careful, and since the purchae in 2002, havent compromised them, but I had a chance to look at them tonight, and noted the extent of which theyre bent - perhaps a shop that Ive used had a lift that damaged them....

So, Im thinking options for repair. Is there much that I can do? If it helps, there is a picture below, and Im talking spts that are listed as factory jack only...

Should I dare use a big pliers and bend them back striaght? will that just compromise the metal more? Should I just paint the bare metal over with POR15 and then spray undercoating (3M brand) over the spots for an extral layer of insulation from the elements??? If I do bend them back, i will coat them with a LOT of protection.

Am I more or less stuck? The factory jack does work in all 4 spots with them as-is...

Any suggestions???

Thanks,

JMH

Jackpoints.jpg


Thanks to the guys at r3vlimited for this great shot which is of super use to all E30ers everywhere!!!
 
OK, so it didnt work out as a text drawing, but assume the "||" is directly under and lined up with the "\/" for some stability and line-up when the jack comes up to the unibody...

If youve seen an integra jack point youll know what Im taking about... same as BMW more or less...

JMH
 
the front jack points on my 88 528E got flimsy. When I repaired the floor, I replaced the stiffener that reiforced the jack points. They work fine for raising the front wheels. I think the stock jack system is waaay better than the bumper jack on my Grand wagoneer. Both are designed to allow you change a flat tire. For any other work I raise the E 28 with a floor jack under the front crossmember or the rear sub frame bushing mounts. I also carry a piece of 2x10 as a pedestal for the jack base.
 
Unless you plan to never take back to a service provider, I'd say repairing/straightening would be a waste of time. Most of us haven't the time or resources to train employees for every lift variation. Probably would be a good idea to touch up with sealer-undercoating. Think you'll find most techs are concientious enough to "aim" lift pads for spots that have already been damaged.

Bob
 
There are so many times I wished I could lay my car on its side to work on it! What's the story behind the picture?
 
Factory jack points generally warp and bend, if they are ever used.
How can so many mfrs. not get this basic requirement right?
 
That factory jack point is only to be used with the car's onboard scissors jack. Someone has obviously put a floor jack under there and bent the union. You can try bending it back, but if you're never going to use the scissors jack again, don't worry about it.
 
Is the bare metal exposed? If so, POR-15 is the best option, followed by the 3M rubberized undercoating. If not down to bare metal, I'd skip the POR-15 and just coat the area with the 3M.
 
Quote:


There are so many times I wished I could lay my car on its side to work on it! What's the story behind the picture?




I really dont know the full story behind the picture, but it hs been used on MANY E30 BMW enthusiast sites to show where to and where not to jack /jackstand the cars, since the unibody can be damaged pretty easily from a misplaced jack, etc.

Ive never seen the picture without the jacking marks, to know 100%... but it is a great shot all the same!

JMH
 
Quote:


Factory jack points generally warp and bend, if they are ever used.
How can so many mfrs. not get this basic requirement right?




The pinch welds get bent or damaged only if they are improperly used, either with the wrong jack or not in the proper spot! Pinch welds are for jacking up the car to change one tire, they are NOT LIFTING POINTS for non onboard factory jacks. All my Euro cars had jacking points along the pinch welds. The four clearly marked and reinforced spots along the pinch welds are to be used ONLY WITH FACTORY JACKS for changing one tire at a time, or if a jack or stand with a proper slotted adapter is available. Otherwise the car MUST be lifted at the proper reinforced flat jack points that are usually inboard of the jack spots along the pinch welds.

When I see mechanics balance a Euro car on the pinch welds, preferably combined with lifting on the rear axle, which is usually not allowed yet common practice, it drives me nuts. It's a sign of utter incompetence and tells me to get out of Dodge.

Typical lifting points (Audi A4 manual):

liftingpoints2071.jpg
 
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Quote:


Any suggestions???




If you can straighten out the bent and crushed pinch welds do it. You should probably strip the undercoating and paint, clean any corrosion, prime, paint and apply undercoating because surely there are now cracks in the finish and your car will start rusting there. Using the abused and straightened out pinch welds with the factory jack in the INTENDED MANNER should still be okay.
 
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You can do whatever you want on your car or to your car.

I see no reason to not lift my car properly, since it doesn't require anything other than knowing where to lift it. Why would I completely unnecessarily complicate things by doing some extraneous woodworking?
 
morib - It's because the factory points fail so often. Bad news turns even worse after aging.
I've jacked up umpteen jillion cars.
Try to explain to a customer how their car is crunched after following the factory recommendations for jacking.
 
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