will a 0w30 hurt a 1991 pontiac grand prix 6cyl, 3.1L
it recommends 5w30
and what benefits would 0w30 have?
it recommends 5w30
and what benefits would 0w30 have?
0w30 hurt an old engine that recomends 5w30?
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Triple_Se7en
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A synthetic may hurt the engine first... meaning if the engine is relatively dirty.
Why not use a high mileage dino oil in 5W-30??
Why not use a high mileage dino oil in 5W-30??
No to Dino - It shouldn't hurt anything. 0W30 will be less viscous for easier start up in cold weather, allowing it to circulate faster, sooner, and get better gas mileage for short trips.
Triple_Se7en
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Tim
Are you saying this synthetic is fine in a dirty engine? It won't loosen and remove dirt particles - possibly eventually causing ticks & lifter problems?... even soon after pouring it in?
How can you be so sure of that?
Are you saying this synthetic is fine in a dirty engine? It won't loosen and remove dirt particles - possibly eventually causing ticks & lifter problems?... even soon after pouring it in?
How can you be so sure of that?
0w30 still protect it during short trips well? 3k's then it sits for the day
planning to use pennzoil 0w30, HD
and warm weather, should i use 5w30 or stick with 0w30
777 - I don't see where he mentions it is a dirty engine. Always best to use an engine flush in that case. I had a 1983 Chevy van that only saw dino changes once a year. For the last 2 years at 85,000 miles I put synthetic in with no engine flush and had no problems. Runs better than it has in 20 years. At best, most synthetics will only do a slow, gradual cleaning. Many probably won't even do that.
No to Dino - yeah, for 3 kilometer trips the oil doesn't get a chance to warm up so it is better to use a 0W to minimize start up and cold engine wear as it will circulate much faster. A synthetic oil with good anti-corrosion properties would be best as you are not burning off moisture. Be sure to get it completely warmed up to 100C or above at least once a week.
No to Dino - yeah, for 3 kilometer trips the oil doesn't get a chance to warm up so it is better to use a 0W to minimize start up and cold engine wear as it will circulate much faster. A synthetic oil with good anti-corrosion properties would be best as you are not burning off moisture. Be sure to get it completely warmed up to 100C or above at least once a week.
tim, it did have quite a bit of sludge.. and i did engine flush when i got the oil changed. now im looking for a good oil
pennzoil 0w30 looks right to me, but i dont know if ill need it during warm times.. will it even matter?
I'd just do some informal experimentation with each product you're considering. Even with UOA, you won't be able to draw any scientifically valid conclusions, but if you're anything like me (hey, you joined this ultimate oil geekfest forum too...), you'll have some fun and probably learn a couple things along the way too. Given that the two grades in question are pretty close to one another, you probably won't see much difference, either in UOAs or in subjective performance. You might possibly see that newly exposed dry seal issue introducing syn to a older, dirtier engine. Another factor to consider is that coming from the extreme frozen north, unlike folks like me from the deep south, you may actually experience a meaningful benefit from using a 0w oil in the winter versus even a 5w. I use GC down here on the Gulf Coast, but it certainly isn't the cold cranking ability I'm after!
So my recommendation is that you run a few relatively short OCIs (long enough to generate meaningful UOA results, but short enough that you can also make meaningful comparisons), make some observations as to what you like in the results, and then pick whichever works best for you, your car, and your circumstances. In 2007, you'd really have to work at it to find a oil that was actually bad for your car (convenience store non-detergent SA oils come readily to mind...), so just have some fun working out what's right for you. As you've framed it, you're making a choice between good, better, and best.
So my recommendation is that you run a few relatively short OCIs (long enough to generate meaningful UOA results, but short enough that you can also make meaningful comparisons), make some observations as to what you like in the results, and then pick whichever works best for you, your car, and your circumstances. In 2007, you'd really have to work at it to find a oil that was actually bad for your car (convenience store non-detergent SA oils come readily to mind...), so just have some fun working out what's right for you. As you've framed it, you're making a choice between good, better, and best.
I run 0W grades all year in the tractor motors and they run great!But they would be fine on almost anything anywho
Its a Pontiac, be grateful it stills runs. I've noticed that most broken down cars on the roadside are Pontiacs
this is on exception a good pontiac
, no problems in 15 years other than power steering and the blinker switch
and it had litteraly no oil, and didnt develop and problems
no leaks, no knock, no ping etc
and it had litteraly no oil, and didnt develop and problems
no leaks, no knock, no ping etc
try xd3
I run 0w30 oils all year. How could that possibly harm anything?
I have used 0W-30 oil exclusivley for the last 90,000 miles, absolutely no problems. presently 208,000 miles on my 1993 Civic.
Thats helpful.
NO TO DINO would you be willing to try the walmart tech 2000 0w-30 synthetic? I am using the 5w-30 formulation right now but I have never seen anyone use the 0w-30. XD-3 is always a safe bet though.
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