2005 2.7L Sebring

[JeepCreep]

I just bought a 2005 Sebring

. I know the 1998-2002 models are known sludgers and have self destructed on occasion

. I just picked up this 2005 with 30,000 miles on her.My questions to those in the know are:

Didn't chrysler eliminate the sludging problem after 2002? If so how?
Can I still use a PL 30001 oversize filter?
I know previous model years spec 5w-30, but mine specs 5w-20. Why do you suppose this is? Fuel economy? Shear stability?
Lastly, I'm debating whether to go with some PP (since it can be found on sale frequently) or perhaps coughing up some dough on Amsoil or maybe even Redline. Your thoughts?

Thanks to any and all that might provide some useful info!

 

[arkainzeye]

i have a 2001 2.7 Sebring convert it currently has 97000 miles i use mobil1 EP and do the oil changes every 7500-10000 miles. but this i was using mobil1 and doing OCI @ 6000 miles. a personal friend of mine that is a service manager at a Chrsyler shop said from what they have seen with the sludge issue it is more a lack of maintance than the cars fault. now i know makers like toyota and whatnot were proven to be at fault. but as far as my personal experience i do extended oci and have no issues at all and im about to hit the 6 digit mileage marker soon. btw others i know with this car also do not have any sludge issues and they arent using synth oils either.

 

[88Dakota]

Not too sure about the Sebring application but the problem was "remedied" in the 2001+ Intrepids and Concordes. They basically added a heat exchanger to the PCV valve to keep the vapors from cooling and condensing. I don't think it completely solved the problem, but I do believe it was an improvement.

One of the biggest causes of sludge happens when the water pump is on the way out. It's timing-chain driven and when it leaks it can contaminate the oil. Keeping to the maintenance schedule for the chain and pump (and related parts) GREATLY reduces your risk.

As for the oversize filter, if the setup is the same as the Intrepids and company, I'd have to advise against it. The normal sized filter sits flush with the oil pan (filter is oriented straight up and down) and to go any longer would mean it would stick out and be vulnerable to damage.

 

[MC5W20]

Not really related to your topic but I can say this - Chrysler was very committed to making these cars. I work for a Tier 1 auto supplier that supplied a "part" for that car, or as we call it "program". The part we made was very expensive and we notified Chrysler the part would no longer be available after the contract expired. Chrysler contacted us back and was willing to pay more money for the part as they said it was the best. I have never seen this happen before nor have I heard of it happening before.

This part has nothing to due with the powertrain. The information I received from engineering was that Chrysler was very commited to making the Sebring a success and thats why they were willing to pay extra to keep that part in production.

Why am I telling you this you ask? Just that I tend to believe the claims the sludge issue is from neglected maintenance and not design flaws. I think any known problem on that car or "program" as we call it would have been addressed and corrected. I base this on what I have seen "behind the scenes" so to speak.

Also as 88Dakota says- stick to the maintenance schedule. This is always sound advice. The OEM's run proving grounds and test these products before they go to market and this has a lot to do with the maintenance schedule that they put out with the vehicle.

I think you will enjoy many years out of your Sebring, so do maintenance at prudent levels and report back at 300k.

 

[va3ux]

There's some additional insight into the 2.7 on this thread :

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post800010

 

[fred0803]

I have the 2.7 in a 02 Intrepid since birth. Has 137K now. It has seen synthetic from time to time. It has seen Havoline dino too. Right now it has PP in it. They improved the engine design with oil ports, and PCV gas routing, not the PCV itself. Auto RX the engine if you like. If it's not consuming oil and you change it every 3 to 5000 miles, then you should be fine. Actually a very strong engine, and sure is easy to change plugs. I use the motorcraft Fl-300 filters from Walmart for #3.35. Frankly the Intrepid has been one of the most trouble free cars overall that I have every owned. Daughter has it college bound right now.

 

[JeepCreep]

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Actually a very strong engine, and sure is easy to change plugs.

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Unfortunately the Sebring's 2.7L is mounted horizontally, so changing plugs in it is a PITA. Wish it were mounted normally

 

[88Dakota]

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Unfortunately the Sebring's 2.7L is mounted horizontally, so changing plugs in it is a PITA. Wish it were mounted normally

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Sure, but the plugs go down through the valve covers don't they? Even in a horizontal application it's a lot easier to access the plugs from the top than down near the exhaust manifolds.

 

[JeepCreep]

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Unfortunately the Sebring's 2.7L is mounted horizontally, so changing plugs in it is a PITA. Wish it were mounted normally

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Sure, but the plugs go down through the valve covers don't they? Even in a horizontal application it's a lot easier to access the plugs from the top than down near the exhaust manifolds.

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Yes but the engine kinda sits up under the firewall making one side dang near impossible to reach.

 

[va3ux]

Fortunately the plugs are good for a good, solid 100k miles. My first plug change was at 144K miles and I could have put the originals back in as far as I'm concerned. The car ran no better after I put new ones in. It's really amazing when I think back to the '70s when plugs really needed to be changed at 10K miles.