Small, heat-resistant plastic boxes needed

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Where can I find small boxes that will withstand engine compartment temperatures? The boxes should ideally be at least splash water resistant and easy to open for access (to relays and fuses). One box must accomodate three relays and sockets, a smaller box must accomodate a BUSS fuse holder with three 1 1/4" glass tube fuses.
 
Have you considered Otter boxes? I cant say for sure that they are up for the heat, but they sure are built tough, a few holes for wires in and out, and theyll seal out water, etc. Not that this is necessarily mandatory. Ive always liked the toughness of these, and would anticipate them doing more than a good job...

http://www.otterbox.com/

JMH
 
I was thinking of Otter boxes, too, but the small ones that I have are too small for the relays. It would work for the fuses -- but the cost!
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I'm really looking for something a bit less costly. The Otter box would however make for a very clean installation...

otterbox.jpg
 
The Otter boxes are made from polycarbonate, which should be more than sufficiently heat resistant. They also vent excess pressure through a valve.

I can fit in the small Otter box for the fuses, but I probably can't fit a larger one for the three relays. The boxes would not go in the engine compartment, but in the space between primary and secondary firewall near the battery. That area does get warm and possibly moist.
 
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pricey too (new), but if you could find a used E30 BMW fusebox with cover, you could likely mount everything inside under the cover, have it A-OK for the temperature, and it has slots explicitly for bosch relays (at least those used in the E30 3-series).

I borrowed this picture from the parts shop at mercedesshop.com, where I do a lot of business...

P200081433OES.JPG


A used one would likely be dirt cheap...

JMH
 
That's very nice, but I'm afraid I don't have enough space for that. Maybe I'll check what Tap Plastic has in stock, although I believe they carry mostly acrylic boxes. In the worst case I could just use a microwaveable food container with snap-on lid...
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That's very nice, but I'm afraid I don't have enough space for that. Maybe I'll check what Tap Plastic has in stock, although I believe they carry mostly acrylic boxes. In the worst case I could just use a microwaveable food container with snap-on lid...
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My thinking was that the E30 box would let you use blade fuses in the already existing slots, and then fit the relays in the center. THe box is only about 4x3x1.5 inches or so (Id have to measure mine for sure). It would reduce the need for one of the two contaners, but if it doesnt fit, it doesnt fit!

JMH
 
Oh, that box is way smaller than I thought! If it's that small it should fit. Maybe I can find one at a dismantler.

PS: alreadygone, I see only battery boxes at Blue Sea Systems, but I found a really nice weatherproof switch.
 
I didn't mount my headlight relays in a box. I just covered the terminals in silicone grease and they've been fine (mounted base-down of course) If they get wet, the silicone grease keeps the water off the terminals.
 
I really want to use a box, because I live right by the ocean and the salty air is very corrosive.

There's a spot on the primary firewall inside the plenum chamber where I may be able to mount a box a few inches above the bottom, so that rainwater will not get near the relays and wiring. As long as the plenum drain valve doesn't clog, it should be a safe spot.
 
the BMW box has a snap-on cover. Ive never had any indication of moisture or whatnot inside. it closes relativley tight, though it is not airtight (I dont think you would actually want it to be!).

JMH
 
Condensation would be a problem with a hermetically sealed box, given the ambient temperature fluctuations.
 
I think silicone grease would do a fine job of preventing salt from corroding your connections. If you do use a box, I would still use the grease.
 
I use ProGold (now DeoxIT) on all electric terminals and connectors. It's got some mil spec number...
 
I use Deoxit too, but I don't think Deoxit works well enough by itself to protect the terminals from future corrosion--usually I would apply Deoxit, let it dry, and then apply the terminal grease.
 
I'll find a box first, then I'll worry about corrosion. I use Plastilube on battery terminals, by the way. Seems to work just fine.
 
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