Will Sears portable power support heating pad?

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

sifan

Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
960
Location
Maryland, USA
I am thinking of using a portable power supply on my Wolverine heat pad to warm up the oil when an AC outlet is not available. According to Wolverine "THE #9.1 DRAWS 1.1 AMPS. ABOUT THE SAME AS A LIGHT BULB.", the model 9.1 uses 120V and is rated 125W.

Will the following Sears product provide adequate power to the heat pad, and how long will it sustain if it is fully charged?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.d...O&ihtoken=1
 
Here is the description of the product:

Powerful, versatile emergency power! Portable Power's 1150 Peak Amps jump starts 12V vehicle batteries. Two, 12V DC power outlets power up to 50 hours of DC power for accessories and two, built-in lights. Inflate/deflate Mattresses, Boats, Toys, Car Tires and Sports Balls with built-in 150 PSI Air Compressor. Two, AC outlets power up to 400 watts of household power for small electronic appliances/devices. Built-in automatic charger recharges the internal 22Ah DieHard® battery so power is available when you need it! Includes: battery cables, pressure gauge, hoses, nozzles, male-to-male plug. One-Year Full Warranty on DieHard Portable Power 1150
(excluding bulbs)
If this Portable Power 1150 fails due to a defect in materials or workmanship within one year from the date of purchase, RETURN IT TO ANY SEARS STORE or OTHER DIEHARD OUTLET IN THE UNITED STATES FOR FREE REPLACEMENT. This warranty does not include the light bulbs, which are expendable parts.

Please advise. Thanks.
 
sifan-

Here are the maths to power your wolverine heaters:

assuming that your AC is 120VAC, 1.1amps, your power draw (in wattage) will be 120*1.1 which equates to 132Watts

Given the fact that no invertors are 100% efficient (typically, I take them as about 80% (worst case scenario) for resistive load, in other words, if you are to connect your Wolverine heater to it, it will become 132Watt/.80(80% conversion efficiency), which equates to 165Watts total.

Now, to figure out how much current it would draw off of your 12V automobile battery: 165W/12V = 13.75Amps.

So, Brianl703's calculation is indeed correct.

Assuming that your portable AC power device DOES come with a 22Amp/hr battery (presumably a deep cycle gel cell or similar, which lets you discharge up to 80%), that works out to approx. 17.6Amp/hr total.

17.6Amp/hr deviced by 13.75Amps of current draw(also per hr) equates to 1.28 hrs (or roughly 1 and 1/2 hrs total).

Bottomline: it's not a sensible thing to pursue.

My 2c's worth
 
Thanks. That is the math I am looking for.

Would you recommend other portable power device that might do better?
 
If you have a means of keeping a gigantic deep cycle battery in your trunk (something in excess of 100Amps/hr @12VDC), otherwise, it is not feasible to run your wolverine heaters using convertors.

You still have to deal with 2 issues though:

-you need an intelligent charger that is capable of multistage+float charge to keep your battery in good state.

-you still need to replace your battery pack often if you deeply discharge your battery on a regular basis.


Are you having difficulties getting AC outlet at your parking lot? Is there a reason why you are thinking of running the heater off of your battery?
 
I used to be able to just plug into an AC outlet in the company garage building. For some reasons I could not get any electricity out of my favorite AC outlet this morning. I guess the building maintenance crew saw my bright orange extension cord too often that they decided to cut off the electricity.
frown.gif


Will a Honda portable generator work like EU1000i work? Its output is rated 900W and weighs about 29lb.
 
yes, Honda EU1000i will definitely work to your advantage.

Regrettably, there are things to watch out for:

-thieves. Honda generators are IMHO higherly sort-after and thieves just couldn't get enough of that.

-air flow: even though Honda EUseries are extremely efficient, nonetheless, you still need to feed fresh air and draw away exhaust gas or you gonna fill your company garage with noxious CO

-gasoline: a full tank of gas shall run you approx. 10hrs if you only run a couple of wolverines. That's roughly 0.5L per hr or less.
 
I can read a book in my car while watching over the generator since it will be used for about an hour each time before heading home.

The company garage building is sort of open like the multi-level parking structure you find in a mall. So, air flow won't be an issue here.

10 hrs is probable sufficient for a week of usage for me. I can refuel it along with my car.

I guess this arrangement will work out fine especially the Honda generator is very quiet without attracting unwanted attention. Thanks for the help.
 
Last edited:
for in MD, I think youre trying too hard... seriously. Maybe Im missing something, but youre going to carry a generator, and burn $0.50 of fuel each cold afternoon to heat your oil?!?

Its your money, but if it were me, Id be buying a pre-oiler to have some, albeit slow flow, and run that before cold startups. Sure the oil wont be warm, but even one of these heaters, operating for an hour, wont thermally activate the additive package... itll just make it flow a bit better. Id rather have a little bit of very thick oil flowed through my engine than somewhat warmed oil flowing through my cold engine...

Plus, this way Ill have a pre-oiler that I can use year-round...

JMH
 
Just want to warm up the oil a bit to make my pre-oiler easier to pump, and to ensure the engine will start up on cold days.
 
But what will you use to warm the oil in the generator before you start that. It's an engine too! Doesn't make sense. Just use a winter grade oil (synthetic if it's really cold and your worried), then don't worry about it. If you want you can warm your engine a little at idle before putting a load on it by driving, but I think more than a minute is a waste.
 
back up the back up
grin.gif



sifan, the worst thing that happens with no warming your oil is that you wear out your preoiler a few years earlier ..the money that you're proposing to spend is way more then replacing the pump every 5 years or so ..if it even is suffering from your current climate ..which I doubt.

I think that you're spoiled by how easy it was to pump oil in the summer and think that this is really a strain now. Surely these pumps are used in more severe situations then yours without issues.

How is your pump wired in? I know that you relocated your battery to the trunk. Have you run heavier gauge cable to the starter (or starter solenoid as it may be), or ran an additional cable?
 
Todd - Since Honda EU100i is only about 29 lbs, I could carry it to my office during work hours to keep it warm under room temp. I use M1 5W30 oil year round, and idle between 20 sec to 1 min depending how warm the engine is.

Gary - I haven't ran an additional cable, and most likely won't in the future because I have no more room on the firewall for me to drill another hole to pass the additional cable. I charge my car battery and a Sears portable power pack in the trunk every morning before I go to work. I did use the Sears device to assist my batter to start up the cold engine on a 32F morning, and it worked out great. I think my battery just needs recharge once a while. But, when the oil/engine is warm, this becomes a non-issue.

The replacement pre-luber pump is close to $400 (mine has the bypass option functioning at 35 psi). http://www.pre-luber.com/preluberkits.htm
Maybe I could order the cheaper one without bypass, and install the bypass from my existing pump in the future.

I am definitely spoiled by how easily the oil was pumped in summer, and overprotective towards the equipment.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

V
  • Locked
LT1 Reverse Cooling
2
Replies
27
Views
31K
Buffman
Back
Top