2007 Mazda CX-7, 2.3L Turbo, Havoline 5W-30

[Last_Z]

Guys,

Here is the first report on my CX-7.

2007 Mazda CX-7, 2.3L Turbo
Oil: Havoline dino 5W-30
Air Filter: Original Mazda
Oil filter: Mazda replacement
Miles on the oil: 1,770 (2 months)
Miles on vehicle: 2280

ALUMINUM 3
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 17
COPPER 107
LEAD 0
TIN 2
MOLYBDENUM 374
NICKEL 0
MANGANESE 2
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 0
BORON 49
SILICON 15
SODIUM 0
CALCIUM 1618
MAGNESIUM 41
PHOSPHORUS 758
ZINC 903
BARIUM 2

Viscosity: 55.1
Flash Point: 360
Fuel: TR
Antifreeze: 0
Water: 0
Insoluble: 0.3

Blackstone comments: RICARDO: The high wear metals and silicon are not unusual finds in the oil from your new Mazda. The
wear is high due to break-in of new parts, while silicon is from sealers and sand-casted parts. The trace
of gas and mildly low viscosity didn't hurt anything. Universal averages show typical wear metals for oil
from this engine after 5100 miles use. We expect your engine will look that good or better in two or three
more oil changes. The Mazda 2.3L 4-cylinder ends to wear very nicely, and yours will too once it's past
wear-in. Check back to see improvements.


My commute is very easy on the car. I've moved from San Antonio, TX to Waynesville, MO. Traffic jams are a thing of the past. I do floor it and have floor it quite a bit. I should also mention I dumped the factory oil at 210 miles and re-filled with this batch. Current mileage is 3700 miles.

 

[tripleM]

Easy does it on breakin & you will have a reliable fun car to drive for years. Congrats. Are you planning to use any other oil for that TURBO?

 

[The Critic]

I'd say go ahead and run your next fill to 5k miles.

How's the gas mileage on this puppy? I'm starting to get interested in small SUVs.

 

[Last_Z]

I'd like to try some ARX and then swithc over to GC 0W-30.

BTW, this SUV is FUN to drive...it handles like a sports car. I begs you to step on it and throw it around the curves.

 

[Last_Z]

My best so far is just over 22MPGs.....at 70-80 MPH

 

[Drew99GT]

Is it pretty quick?

 

[TeeDub]

Note the shearing of this oil, which is to be expected in any turbocharged engine w/ an SAE 5w-30 dino. The Cu is probably from an oil cooler of some kind and everything else looks normal - and similar to the 2.3L "Mazda6" engines.

I'd recommend a shear stable, xw-30 synthetic once you have 10,000 miles on this motor and the wear pattern settles down. The GC is about as good as you can find off the shelf for this application and will be fine year round.

Finally, I was wondering how well this thing rides/handles,compared to others small SUV"s or "CUV's"???? My sister in law is dumping her old baby van now that the kids are off to college and I've been looking at CR-V's and V-6/RAV4's as potential replacements. But the turbo motor in this thing has me intrigued....

Maybe you could PM me with your impressions so far? Thanks!

TD

 

[wavinwayne]

Why doesn't Mazda recommend synthetic oil for this car?

 

[AndyH]

Quote:

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I'd like to try some ARX and then swithc over to GC 0W-30.

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Auto-RX on a new engine...why? I'd continue with short 2,500 mile intervals with conventional oil until 10,000 miles and then switch over to GC as TeeDub recommends.

 

[JAG]

I'd run a maintenance dose of Auto-RX with dino oil in a new engine but certainly not a cleaning dose.

 

[buster]

Quote:

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The GC is about as good as you can find off the shelf

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I'd put GC against any boutique brand as well in the 0w-30 grade.

 

[Last_Z]

Guys,

Thanks for the recommendations, but believe me, I have been around here (BITOG) for quite a bit now. At this point I am pretty sure about what works and what doesn't.

I am currently running QS Synthetic 5W-30. I already ordered the ARX and will likely dump the whole thing in there. New engines are indeed dirty from sand casting, blow-by (while piston rings seal up), an assorted variety of metal shavings and extra fuel in the oil. I've done it before and it is almost always a great idea.

The breakdown of the Havoline might be due to the turbo, but most likely due to break-in (trace of fuel). As for GC, I too, like buster would face GC against most if not anything else out there. GC simply can not be beat on performance, much less value.

Mazda does not recommend synthetic for this engine, BUT they don't recommend against it. Dino is really the norm for most cars, to include turbo cars. I will double check the owner's manual though.

Now, as for the car itself....well, I still hate the fact I HAD to get rid of my 2002 Z28, but this is not a bad replacement. There is some lag under 2k RPMs from a dead stop, but once the boost kicks in, you WILL notice. This engine is a "de-tuned" version of the MazdaSpeed 6 2.3L turbo. 270HP vs. 244HP for this car. I've heard people say that the intake diameter on the turbo was reduced. It sure seems like it, because peak power is at only 5k RPMs. You will hit a brick wall after that. The torque is VERY good for this engine (258 lbs/ft) and you will break traction. Also, this thing handles like a sports car and it feels very light and nimble (3700lbs weight). It is comfy, although you can tell it has a sports tune suspension, fairly spacious for 5 and with the rear seats down, you can lay a 26" bicycle flat on the floor with space to spare. Quality in and out is excellent (unlike my chevy), looks are pretty good and fun factor is definitely high.

Two things I wish I had with this car:
-Rear wheel drive
-Tune it back up to MazdaSpeed spec

If you are looking for a small SUV, you NEED to see and drive the Mazda CX-7!

 

[Drew99GT]

Man, with factory turbo cars, all it takes is to open up the intake and exhaust, and a good solid manual boost controller (get a REAL boost gauge) and add a couple psi (dual ball and spring manual boost controllers work best at keeping the wastegate closed longer until it needs to open - majorly reduced turbo lag). Voila, you got an extra 50 hp and 50 ft. lbs. just like that! Maybe even more.

 

[Last_Z]

Drew,

The aftermarket already makes a Cold Air Intake and a blow off valve for this car. I hear a downpipe and full exhaust might be in the works too.
This little engine is making some serious power though....106 HP/lt is quite a bit! It is built tough though with forged crank and ronds.

Anyway, did anyone notice the lead (0). Blackstone's universal averages also show 0 lead after 5100 miles. What are these bearings made of?

 

[bulwnkl]

I don't know what the bearings are made of, but our Mazda 5 showed some relatively similar UOA numbers early on. It's the same basic 2.3-liter engine, but of course without the turbo or direct injection. The copper is NOT from an oil cooler, as the cooler on these draws engine coolant into the oil filter housing head. Do you consult with Dyson analysis? If not, he may have some good advice for you; he does for me.

 

[Last_Z]

bulwnkl,

Thanks for your comment! Yes, I know Terry and have used him in the past. High metal numbers are not unsual during break-in, so with that in mind I decided not to hit the panic button. If I get this amout of copper in the next intervals, then I will do more about it.
Did your Mazda 3 showed copper this high during break-in?

 

[bulwnkl]

Our 5 showed high copper, but I did not sample as early as you. My first sample was ~5,500 miles, and that was the end of the second OCI. There was other stuff going on (in part at least) in ours; that's why I asked about Terry.

 

[blackdiamond]

Last_Z - Have you done any more UOAs on this car? I have a Mazdaspeed 3 with essentially the same engine (263 hp & 280 lb-ft torque.

Did you have any indication of fuel dilution from pulling the dipstick or just from the UOA?

 

[gwood]

Quote:

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Last_Z - Have you done any more UOAs on this car? I have a Mazdaspeed 3 with essentially the same engine (263 hp & 280 lb-ft torque.

Did you have any indication of fuel dilution from pulling the dipstick or just from the UOA?

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Wondering the same thing. I also have a speed3...zoom zoom!