Pre wax polish?

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Pre wax polish?

Yeah this is another beginner question.

Looking for a pre wax cleaner polish to go on by hand after clay bar.
I know there are lots of products out there but I need something that has no wax and goes on wet and comes off wet leaving no residue behind.

This is all new to me but it seams like there would be water base cleaner polish?
 
Check out Meg's Deep Crystal 3-step system. It includes a paint cleaner, a polish, & a carnauba wax. Or better yet, after you apply the paint cleaner and/or polish, apply some Meg's #26 High-Tech Yellow Wax. Great stuff!

If you're looking for a one-stepper (polish & protection), check out Meg's ColorX.

Use foam applicators to apply whatever you decide to go with.

No need to look any further. These products will do exactly what you're looking for.
 
meg's #9 is a good cleaner/polish, followed by some #26 wax. This combo makes my paint look great.
 
mshu7

I was able to find Meguiar’s Deep Crystal System #1 and #2 (and foam applicator)
at the local O’Reilly auto parts.

#1 bottle says “Paint Cleaner, non-abrasive cleaner to revitalize paint”.
#2 bottle says “Polish, specially formulated to create high gloss shine on dark-colored cars!”

How can you remove light scratches with out abrasives?
 
The Meguiar's Step 1 and the Mothers Step 1 products (pre-wax cleaners) are primarily chemical paint cleaners with a light abrasive component. Their job is to clean the paint of surface crud and maybe make a slight dent in swirls and light marring. Both are made to be used by hand.

Step #2 is typically a glaze which will hide some marring and give the paint a nice, rich look. Step #3 is the wax.

You could also use a paint polish like a swirl mark remover or something a bit more aggressive. Polishes with more bite will make a better dent in swirls and light scratches. Gotta try a few products to see what will work for ya.
 
I like 3M Hand Glaze followed by a coat of wax. If the surface is in better shape, I use P21S Paintwork Cleanser followed by my same wax which is currently Meguiar's #20.
 
I'm with Benjamming on the P21S.

If you can't find it, go to a Harley Davidson dealer and get the S100 Paint Cleanser (same thing).

Easy to use and excellent results if finish isn't too poor.
 
OK Meguiar’s Deep Crystal System #1 and #2 is not what I was looking for.
I do like the fact that you apply it and wipe it of on waiting and drying involved.
#1 goes on and of easy and leaves the paint clean and looking like it has been waxed.

I need a pure clear coat safe polish that is water base with no oils, waxes or fillers.
 
Ron350, if DC #1 & #2 isn't what you're looking for, try ColorX. It's a good one-stepper.

Quote:


Meguiar’s® COLORX® is the tested and proven system to restore deep color and gloss from your oxidized or contaminated paint finish. Helps remove fine scratches and swirl marks too. Our polish and wax combination will dramatically revive brilliant color and add a long lasting protection that locks in the shine. For best results, apply with an Even-Coat Applicator and remove residue with a Supreme Shine® Microfiber or Ultra Plush Super Terry.




http://www.meguiars.com/?liquid-car-waxes/COLORx

If you're looking to remove light swirls or scratches w/o any protection, ScatchX is good stuff.

Quote:


The most effective way to safely remove fine scratches and swirls...Now by hand OR with a dual action polisher! Our new and improved ScratchX® uses diminishing abrasive™ technology to safely and effectively remove fine scratches, swirls, and oxidation. As you work ScratchX into the surface of your vehicle, the abrasives diminish and your paint surface is polished to reveal brilliant color and clarity. Clear coat safe, ScratchX will not create new scratches and will not simply "cover" fine scratches as most conventional products do.




http://www.meguiars.com/?auto-paint-cleaners/ScratchX
 
not sure if it is water based but poorboy's SSR polishes are very clean from my experience with them. I've used Zaino Z2 after it with no problems and that seemed to last long enough. Not sure what you mean by goes on/comes off wet- just about anything is going to go on wet, no?

You can buff the SSR off right away, or whenever you want really. The way you use a polish though is you use so much for a given area and work it in for so long till it's no longer wet, otherwise you're using it wrong. Once you're doing working it in, it should be just about dry or only take 10-30 seconds to haze up, and then should buff away very quickly and easily. If it doesn't, then you're using too much for the area and/or didn't work it for long enough. With a real polish, which is abrasive, it works by abrading (sanding) down the clearcoat surface to remove imperfections, and the only way it'll accomplish anything is you need to use enough of it and work it in long enough, either by hand or by machine.

You mentioned "another beginner question", if such is the case I recommend one or more of these for applying an abrasive polish by hand:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/vk-101.html
Don't use the typical 4" round yellow foam wax applicators unless you're doing a tiny area once. And with the poorboy's SSR, I can also tell you from experience that if you're going by hand and have some medium scratches to use no less than SSR2.5. I have SSR1, 2, and 2.5. SSR2.5 sounds gritty when you use it, I can only imagine how much more aggressive SSR3 is so I can't give a recommendation. By hand use SSR2 if you have very light imperfections or just want to clean the paint, and expect a moderate amount of time working it in by hand. SSR1 is too fine and should only be used with a machine, it's a waste of time and material used by hand. The SSR2.5 works pretty quick by hand at removing scratches. A quick detailer spray liquid and microfiber towels work best in my opinion at buffing it clean

> you don't "remove" scratches without an abrasive polish, you only hide them with fillers. I've used ScratchX and agree it's good stuff but I think it has a moderate amount of fillers in it. Unless they changed it, it was 2 or 3 years ago when I used it. I've also tried one of the meguiars deep crystal polishes, and would agree it does leave a little bit of an oily wet residue although it had no affect on sealant and wax afterwards. Just about anything you use is going to be clearcoat safe, the major differences amongst the polishes are their abrasive contents and how much oils they include to leave a wet look (i.e. glaze). Not sure what your ultimate goal is, there is no best polish and oils and fillers are not a bad thing.

http://www.autogeek.net/pbsr.html
 
Big edit and apologies.

I just read what I posted last night and it was not what I wanted to say.

If I knew what I needed I would not be asking for your valued opinions.
Thanks for all the help.

Should have said, “I think”
.
“I think” Meguiar’s Deep Crystal System #1 and #2 is not what I was looking for.
I do like the fact that you apply it and wipe it of on waiting and drying involved.
#1 goes on and of easy and leaves the paint clean and looking like it has been waxed.

“I think” I need a clear coat safe polish that is water base with no oils, waxes or fillers.
 
Let's back up a second here. What sort of defects, if any, are you trying to correct? What makes you think you want a polish with no oils, waxes or fillers? Are you looking to do some polishing in a fresh paint environment? If so, then I can see why you don't want any waxes, and certainly no silicones (this is also the ONLY time you should really worry about silicones in a paint care product). If not, then something with polishing oils, like most Meguiar's cleaner/polishes, are actually good for the paint. Oh, and ALL Meguiar's polishes are intended to be worked into the paint and removed before they dry or set up.
 
Another question to consider is, are you working by hand or machine?

If you're serious about removing defects from your paint, look into a Porter Cable random orbital buffer. You can only do so much by hand. And even with that, you're going to kill your arm if you have anything more than just very minor defects.

At AutoGeek.net you can get them with a kit of pads/polish/whatever. This is the best money I have ever spent in detailing.

http://autogeek.net/po.html
 
I had to finish last night so I used Meguiar’s Deep Crystal System.

This is a 96 medium gray Regal and you can see the scratches and flaws on the roof under florescent light.
The trunk and hood looks ok until you look at it at night under mercury vapor lights. At first I thought I made all the scratches with the clay bar but these scratches go in all directions. Using the clay I would rub back and forth in a small area and then fold the clay always with the length of the car. All I can think is that these scratches were already there and I uncovered them removing 10 years of wax and crud. The car now looks like a lighter shade of gray than before.

Before I try to remove these scratches I may need someone with more experience to look at the paint.
 
the basic rule with scratches is if you can feel the scratch with your finger or finger nail, then the scratch is too deep (through the clearcoat) and cannot be polished out. At best you can polish heavily around it to diminish it's appearance but you also risk thinning the clearcoat too much. It would be better to leave the scratch and preserve the clearcoat, so you'll have to decide how much of a visible scratch you want to live with versus how much clearcoat you want to polish away.
And even with tiny scratches (ones you can't feel) not all of them come out. You will always be able to see some scratches and lines in the paint, especially if you use various lighting sources, and you'll just have to live with them.
What you can try for deep scratches, is touch up paint then use a touch-up paint repair kit which is just a liquid that acts like paint thinner- it removes the blob of touch up paint slowly so you can rub it down and blend in the touchup paint so it's not as visible. Then use a light cutting polish on the area and it will come out pretty good.
 
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