BG engine cleaner / engine purge

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anyone used either of these products and what were your results?

BG Quick Clean for Engines
BG Quick Clean for Engines restores power and performance to your engine by rapidly and effectively removing accumulated deposits that form in the piston ring belt, hydraulic lifters, rocker arms and other critical engine parts. Add BG Quick Clean to the oil, then run engine for 10-15 minutes. When the old oil is drained, contaminants are quickly flushed away.
Part No. 105 11 oz. (325 mL) can

BG Engine Purge
BG Engine Purge is not an ordinary engine flush. It is an effective blend of solvents and dispersants which will quickly and safely remove accumulated sludge and other deposits from the engine. It can actually restore compression by removing soot and deposits from around the rings; hence, the compression rings seal in compression gasses. BG Engine Purge does not contain harmful chlorinated solvents. It may be used in conventional, diesel and rotary engines.
Part No. 120 32 oz. (946 mL) bottle
 
Why do you need either, might I ask?

I'm sure they are okay but not worth the money. If you really want a flush, try something cheaper like b-12 or rislone....

But why do you need it? If you just wanna keep it clean for maitenance purposes, I can asure you arx or LC20 are better choices.
 
They are replacing the Part Number 105 with BG 109 which can be used in the same way or with the BG machine and it does seem to work. Had several cars running rough and cured the problem. Also in my Neon I had a typical Chrysler 4 cylinder (lifter tap bordering on knock at idle after warm) noise and now all is quiet.
It was either the Havoline 5W-30 solving what Mobil 7500, Mobil1, Royal Purple, Castrol Syntec, and Kendall GT-1 could not. Did it since new now it does not. Used to only happen in single digit weather and slowly got worse now it is gone.
 
Just finished a BG Quick Clean flush. Holy moly is that stuff strong! I took a wiff down the opened oil filler hole and just about fell over!

Oil drained like water and was absolutely black as tar with only about 2500 miles on it.

I'll report back in time with any results. I read a thread on the Saturn forums where someone used this product with great results in reducing oil consumption almost to nill. That's why I used it, to clean out the ring packs and get my 94 Corolla's oil consumption under control; recently it burned about a quart in only 800 miles.
 
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They are replacing the Part Number 105 with BG 109 which can be used in the same way or with the BG machine and it does seem to work. Had several cars running rough and cured the problem. Also in my Neon I had a typical Chrysler 4 cylinder (lifter tap bordering on knock at idle after warm) noise and now all is quiet.
It was either the Havoline 5W-30 solving what Mobil 7500, Mobil1, Royal Purple, Castrol Syntec, and Kendall GT-1 could not. Did it since new now it does not. Used to only happen in single digit weather and slowly got worse now it is gone.



Dang, sounds like mine. I have the 2.5L in my daytona. It has that "TAP-TAP-TAP" at idle to about 1700rpms as well. I hope LC20 can take it down a bit. Seems like its common in this particular motor.
 
Yeah, we just decided to change over from MOC to BG (BIG IMPROVEMENT) and the new ahem Machine if you want to call it that just blows out the oil passages to get the BG109 and old oil out. Then re-primes the motor with their MOA and then you put new filter and oil in.

In every motor they demo (Normally a four cylinder for simplicity) it actually improves compression pressures. My car runs better. Mine was done sans machine but the clean phase is the same. Will just be short draining this interval to remove any residual 109. Wow good stuff.
 
The tapping noise in your Daytona 2.5l is piston slap and wrist pins. Doesn't seem to hurt anything though as those engines run a long, long time.
 
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The tapping noise in your Daytona 2.5l is piston slap and wrist pins. Doesn't seem to hurt anything though as those engines run a long, long time.




Idk, I used a stethoscope and it seems to be coming from right on top of cylinder 1 right where the lifters would be. I listened on the head and block every few inches to trace the sound down. The area on top of cyls 2-4 are perfectly rythmic like they should be but above #1 there is a large amount of clatter and tapping. I figured either the lifter(s) for the cylinder were very dirty or on their way to a collapse.

I suspected piston slap and the infamous chrysler wristpin knock for a while but most tell me it should fade as the engine gets hot(cylinder expands) but it doesn't. It stays the same volume no matter what temp its at. Also, I cant hear any abnormal sounds on the engine block when I listen with the stethoscope. The sound is only audible on the steth whe its placed on the back/top/front of the valve cover above cylinder 1.

Gotta love these goofy little Chryco engines
laugh.gif
 
Is the actual chemical formula between part numbers 105 and 109 different? All I know is that it was BG Quick Clean I used; had red labeling on the can. Oh, cost was only 7 bucks compared to the outrageous 25 bucks for 44K!! You can run 4 treatments of Redline SL-1 for that much.
 
Yeah, our BG guy said they reformulated 105 to 109. Now known as 109. 105 is apparently still around for some who just trust the good 'Ol stuff but 109 is the newest greatest stuff.

Old stuff know as BG Quick Clean with a part number of BG-105
New stuff simply known as BG-109.

As far as 44K being expensive it is and yes I am a serious an of Redline SL-1. Great stuff almost a miracle worker from some of the things I have seen and friends telling me how good it worked for them. BG is also pretty dang good.

Oh, my engine is still quiet after 2K+ even is the cold since the 109.
 
No problem. If ya got any questions my BG rep is pretty cool. Not into chemistry but can get you all the releasable info you want on the BG stuff. So far most of it seems to work really well.

Just got to use the brake flush the other day and Wow what a difference just on a fluid exchange. Ain;t exactly cheap but they supposedly took like BMW's basic DOT4 formula and modified it some(they say enhanced). Got done with about an 01 crown vic and and the pedal was a ROCK!!!
 
Hey, I might like to try the engine purge. I looked on BG's website for where to buy it and it appears they don't sell through auto parts stores, but only through repair facilities. Plenty of those around me, just struck me as odd that they would not sell through auto parts stores.
 
NOPE not here back then. Was not aware of a big event here but hey. They still talk about OAK lawn and another one a couple years ago (minor really) but neve heard a peep about a Plainfield Tornado.

And yes they only sell to professional shops so that is one issue. But some will sell you the stuff over the counter.

Either one will do the job. I think 109 is a little stronger. They like to blown out the passages after using it and then reprime the car with MOA. The old stuff is what their reputation is built off of though. Both are supposed to be pretty dang good. Minor reformulation not that big of a deal. If they were out of 109 and had 105 on the truck I'd use it instead without hesitation.
 
Update: 500 miles after the BG Quick Clean treatment, oil consumption has dramatically slowed on my Toyota Corolla. The oil level is down about 1/8th of a quart, where as it would have been down at least a half quart by now. I'd say it worked pretty darn good!
 
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