What the??? I just responded to 55 and my response looks like I quoted myself.
Rislone oil additive?
- Thread starter wood_e
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The only thing is, the engine I'd be using it on has had nothing but synthetic oil at 5k OCIs for the last 120k miles. That's why I've never ARX'd it - I don't think its dirty inside. Anyways I'll find my comp tester and do before/after readings.
I can do a UOA also, but with the mix in their now (1qt ML Syn 5w30, 2qt ML Syn 10w30, 1/2qt ML dino 10w30, 4-5oz SLOB) the UOA would only be good for measuring wear metals and not additives.
I can do a UOA also, but with the mix in their now (1qt ML Syn 5w30, 2qt ML Syn 10w30, 1/2qt ML dino 10w30, 4-5oz SLOB) the UOA would only be good for measuring wear metals and not additives.
While I haven't torn down the engines in either of my vehicles I have used both Rislone and CD-2 additives without seeing any spectacular results. The Honda Prelude has over 100k and the Ford Aerostar has over 200k. Actually, the Honda had improved butt dyno results with the CD-2 for a few days but ya know, I probably imagined it
I used to believe that some of these older products on the cheap had the possibility of doing some good but now I just stick with well formulated oils/top tier fuels and call it a day.
MMO is about the only thing that ever worked. I still add it to the gas on occasion. Helps quiet and smooth the idle in the noisy Honda 4 banger. Even now I've stopped putting MMO (or anything else) in the crankcase altogether. The idea of MMO's solvents in thinned/diluted engine oil that's flowing between stressed bearings feels counter-intuitive. Especially at 8000RPMs.
Seriously considering the ARX/FP/LC combo as they are well received by many on this board.
I used to believe that some of these older products on the cheap had the possibility of doing some good but now I just stick with well formulated oils/top tier fuels and call it a day.
MMO is about the only thing that ever worked. I still add it to the gas on occasion. Helps quiet and smooth the idle in the noisy Honda 4 banger. Even now I've stopped putting MMO (or anything else) in the crankcase altogether. The idea of MMO's solvents in thinned/diluted engine oil that's flowing between stressed bearings feels counter-intuitive. Especially at 8000RPMs.
Seriously considering the ARX/FP/LC combo as they are well received by many on this board.
I added the 15oz "concentrated" Rislone treatment about 400 miles ago to 3.5 qts of Maxlife /ML Syn with ~3800 miles on it. I plan on changing the oil around 4500-4800.
Sat night, coming back from a ~150 mile (each way) road trip, the car got a LOUD lifter tick after sitting in a drive thru line for 10 mins. Its doing something. Not sure what, though. Tick went away after returning to the freeway, and I haven't heard it return, yet. Oil level remains full.
Comp. readings were a waste - my before ones were useless due to a cheap-o tester, and I wasn't about to buy a new one. If it does any ring cleaning, I'm hoping the results will show up in improved MPG readings, as I have good records for those. I'll also do a UOA, and see if anything is affected.
Sat night, coming back from a ~150 mile (each way) road trip, the car got a LOUD lifter tick after sitting in a drive thru line for 10 mins. Its doing something. Not sure what, though. Tick went away after returning to the freeway, and I haven't heard it return, yet. Oil level remains full.
Comp. readings were a waste - my before ones were useless due to a cheap-o tester, and I wasn't about to buy a new one. If it does any ring cleaning, I'm hoping the results will show up in improved MPG readings, as I have good records for those. I'll also do a UOA, and see if anything is affected.
I used to use 3 quarts Castrol GTX 20W-50 and 1 quart Rislone every 3K in my DOHC 1.8 liter Fiat 124 Sport Coupe.
I couldn't have driven that engine harder and I never had any problems. When I tore that engine down at 100K to rebuild it in a larger displacement it was in perfect shape.
That engine was much stronger after a blueprinted rebuild with larger pistons, and I kept running it on Castrol GTX but I can't remember if I used Rislone after that.
No sign that Rislone did anything bad....perhaps because I ran a 20W-50.
I'd never run Rislone now, but I do use LC-20 per LubeControl dose instructions.
I wonder if Rislone, LC-20, and the rather sleazy ZMax are similar, just thinner refined mineral oil?
I couldn't have driven that engine harder and I never had any problems. When I tore that engine down at 100K to rebuild it in a larger displacement it was in perfect shape.
That engine was much stronger after a blueprinted rebuild with larger pistons, and I kept running it on Castrol GTX but I can't remember if I used Rislone after that.
No sign that Rislone did anything bad....perhaps because I ran a 20W-50.
I'd never run Rislone now, but I do use LC-20 per LubeControl dose instructions.
I wonder if Rislone, LC-20, and the rather sleazy ZMax are similar, just thinner refined mineral oil?
One mechanic told me Rislone is just ATF colored green. Well as far as additive levels go, he seems to be shooting in the correct direction.
Rislone Engine treatment MSDS. Mostly a GRPIII hydro crack with a few other adds and copolymer (thickener I'm thinking). The "upper cylinder treatment" is Butyl acetate, a solvent.
Doesn't look special to me
My grand-dad swore by this stuff. He was an old school mechanic and used it at every oil change. He had a super clean '68 Imperial that had 270000 miles on it before he smacked into some lady in a Taurus (totally destroyed but lady unhurt). Never had the valve covers off of it. I think the "magic" back in the day of straight weights was the ability to get flow on startup. Rislone provided that and probably did some good. Today with top tier multi-grades? Nah. Maybe worth a try if you have some lifter noise, but as a long-term cleaning additive I think it is pretty weak.
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