how much of a difference do machined rims make for stopping?

[JHZR2]

Hi,

Per my other posts, my front rim on my commuter raleigh M50 isnt all that great. Ive read the reccomenations to dremel or smooth it down, etc., but I have to wonder if getting a better rim would be a nice, smart choice, and worthwhile $110 nvestment (for a mavic rim and XT hub).

One thing Im curious about is how much of a difference a machined friction surface makes in brakingpower. The current rims have some sort of powdercoat (worn off of course), and though I used to be happy with the braking, I dont feel content with it anymore compared to my MTB (mechanical discs) and my road bike.

So does the machining of the friction surface make a difference, or is it more the rubbr composition???

Thanks!

JMH

 

[wantin150]

Try pads made for ceramic rims. Cheaper than a whole new rim. These will, however, wear out your rims a lot faster.

 

[wavinwayne]

Get a better wheel. It is the easiest upgrade that will immediately improve the performance of ANY bike. If you go with a Mavic/XT set-up, you will likely shed some rotational weight, too. That's where you notice the biggest difference.

I would also recommend upgrading to disc brakes on the front. Avid & Hayes both make an excellent cable actuated mechanical disc brake that work flawlessly. FWIW, I've heard the Avid is super-easy to set-up. You can get either brand for around $60 (for one wheel).

If you want to stick with V-brakes, I suggest Jagwire V-brakes (the insert type). I used them for years on my old Fisher hardtail, & they stopped every bit as good as my Hayes hydraulic discs......I'm serious. I also recommend sanding (roughing up) the rim's braking surface. That always worked well for me.

 

[JHZR2]

Thanks for the info!

The RST fork isnt drilled for disc brakes, though I like discs and have them on my MTB (I have the avid and they were a breeze to set up and they stay working well, without need for adjustment). For my commuter, rim brakes are just fine...

I probably will get a new front wheel when I save the $100 for it. Ill wait on getting a new rear because there is a LOT more work involved, and I dont notice the need. Plus my setup only has 7 gears in the back, and IIRC, XT is 9 speed, so probably even more stuff would need to be replaced.

Or do you reccomend replacing wheels in pairs? If so, how can I do it and keep my existing gear setup?

Can you give me a lead on jagwire brakes... I see their cables, and I see their rebuild kits... but I dont see anything else...

Thanks!

JMH

 

[wavinwayne]

quote:

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Originally posted by JHZR2:
Thanks for the info!

....I probably will get a new front wheel when I save the $100 for it. Ill wait on getting a new rear because there is a LOT more work involved, and I dont notice the need. Plus my setup only has 7 gears in the back, and IIRC, XT is 9 speed, so probably even more stuff would need to be replaced.

Or do you reccomend replacing wheels in pairs? If so, how can I do it and keep my existing gear setup?

Can you give me a lead on jagwire brakes... I see their cables, and I see their rebuild kits... but I dont see anything else...

Thanks!

JMH

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JMH, in order asked:

You can use a new wheel with your existing 7-speed set-up. The gears in the back will fit right onto a new wheel with no modifications at all. All you need is a chainwhip & a freewheel removal tool. Any bike shop should carry both tools for about $30 total. The chainwhip keeps the cogset from rotating CCW. You then insert the freewheel removal tool into the cogset & loosen the lockring with a crescent wrench. It is so easy, a caveman could do it.

There is no reason to replace wheels in pairs unless you just want to. To keep your existing gear set-up, see above.

Here's a link to Jagwire MTB V-brakes. http://www.jagwireusa.com/switchback.html I have the switchback tri-zones on my Specialized rockhopper hardtail. They work great. Your local bike shop can order them for you.

 

[Brons2]

Try some Kool Stop salmon pads with your existing setup. They are the best around and they're not expensive.

 

[NYEngineer]

I have machined Mavic rims, Avid Tri Aligns with Cool Stop Eagle Claws. I clean the braking surface of the rims with scotchbrite a couple times a year. Seems to work really well. My buddies all goof on my retro cantilevers, but I love them and I'm leaving this bike as is. My new one has discs.

 

[meep]

Back before my knees blew I loved the magura hydraulics. They'd crush rims after the braking surfaces wore thin. Found that periodic spoke tensioning/truing kept brake performance better; less wobble allowed for tighter tolerances.

Truing s an art, but once you commit to learning it the results are quite rewarding. Building your own wheels is much, much cheaper and you can taylor weight/strength to your riding style.

Mike