How does using a engine block heater benefit the engine and oil?

[Patman]

My heater is ok after all! Perhaps I just didn't plug it in all the way the last few days. I knew the timer was working, and power was getting to the end of the line, since I could hear it zapping as I pulled the plug out.

But this morning it was quiet enough out that I could listen closely and could hear the block heater working, and when I fired up the engine it only revved to 1100rpm then settled in on a nice 800-900rpm idle right away. Less than 3 miles later I had full heat.

My new project is to put on an oil pan heater, so next winter I'll have both of those things on my side! Cold start engine wear, say goodbye!

 

[heyjay]

The best way to tell if a block heater is working is with an Amp Clamp: a clamp-on ammeter. It has a spring-loaded jaw that opens to fit around the wire you're testing.

You can probably pick up a cheap amp-clamp at Radio Trash for $25. I paid $175 for my Fluke, but I have used it in commercial and industrial locations as well. Very tough.

Remember the basic rule for calculating current: I = W / V

Where I is current, W it wattage, and V is volts. V is 120 here in North America.

As an example, say you have a 600 watt block heater. It should draw 600 / 120 = 5 amps.

With everything plugged in, use the amp clamp to verify the current. I personally never use a block timer outside, though I will use one in the garage.

I've had frost-plug heaters slowly go bad over time. Just like an electric kettle for making tea, they seem to slow down as time goes on.

Jerry

 

[Baveux]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Patman:
I had a bad feeling something was wrong over my last two mornings when my engine revved up a little higher on the cold start, and did not heat up as quickly, and now I'm pretty sure that my block heater is dead.

I wonder if it's worth it to get it fixed, who on earth could I take it to, and how much would something like this cost? Why did it have to die during the coldest winter we've had here in my lifetime?

---

Pat, its pretty easy to change if you can work inside a garage, drain the coolant, find the heater, unscrew the middle screw or nut, its built like a toggle bolt so you may loose the inside retainer in the engine block, no big deal.

The heater shouldn't cost you more than $40.00.

Expect to pay around 125/150.00 if you decided to have it done by a mech.

An easy way to test if the heater is dead is to use an ohmeter

BTW if you want to extend the life of your heater QUIT USING IT IN SUMMER TIME

[ January 31, 2004, 12:25 PM: Message edited by: Baveux ]