Motor Oil 102

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Motor Oil 102
Chapter two. It gets more difficult.

We left off discussing that a 0W-30 weight oil is not thinner than a 10W-30 oil. They both have the same thickness at operating temperature. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 10W-30. Both are still way to thick to lubricate an engine at startup.

I have heard several people say that Porsche specifically prohibits a 0W-XX engine oil, that it is too thin. Now here is the partial truth I spoke of earlier. We will discuss multigrade oils. Earlier we said that a straight 30 weight oil has a thickness of 10 at the normal operating temperature of your engine. The multigrade oils 0W-30 and 10W-30 also have a thickness of 10 at 212 F.

The difference is at 75 F, your startup temperature in the morning.


Oil type... Thickness at 75 F...Thickness at 212 F

Straight 30...... 250......................10
10W-30............100......................10
0W-30..............40 ......................10

Straight 10........30....................... 6

Now you can see that the difference between the desired thickness your engine requires ( = 10 ) is closest to the 0W-30 oil at startup. It is still too thick for normal operation. But it does not have far to go before it warms up and thins to the correct viscosity. Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate. Most of the thick oil at startup actually goes through the bypass valve back to the engine oil sump and not into your engine oil ways. This is especially true when you really step on that gas pedal. You really need more lubrication and you actually get less.

Note that a straight 10 weight oil is also too thick for your engine at startup. It has a thickness of 30. Yet at operating temperatures it is too thin having a thickness of 6. It needs to be around 10. The oil companies have added viscosity index improvers or VI to oils to solve this dilemma. They take a mineral based oil and add VI improvers so that it does not thin as as much when it gets hotter. Now instead of only having a thickness of 6 when hot it has a thickness of 10, just as we need.

The penalty is the startup thickness also goes up to 100. This is better than being up at 250 as a straight 30 weight oil though. Oil with a startup thickness of 100 that becomes the appropriate thickness of 10 when fully warmed up is called a 10W-30 weight motor oil. This is NOT as thick as a straight 30 weight oil at startup and it is NOT as thin as a straight 10 weight oil at full operating temperature.

The downside of a mineral based multigrade oil is that this VI additive wears out over time and you end up with the original straight 10 weight oil. It will go back to being too thin when hot. It will have a thickness of 6 instead of 10. This may be why Porsche (according to some people) does not want a 0W-30 but rather a 10W-30. If the VI wears out the 0W-30 will ultimately be thinner, a straight 0 weight oil. When the VI is used up in the 10W-30 oil it too is thinner. It goes back to a straight 10 weight oil. They are both still too thick at startup, both of them. The straight 0 weight oil, a 5 weight oil and a 10 weight oil are all too thick at startup.

This is just theory however. With normal oil change intervals the VI improver will not wear out and so the problem does not really exist. In fact, oils do thin a little with use. This is partly from dilution with blow by gasoline and partly from VI improvers being used up. What is more interesting is that with further use motor oils actually thicken and this is much worse than the minimal thinning that may have occurred earlier.

Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever. The problem is that there are other additives and they do get used up. I suppose if there was a good way to keep oil clean you could just add a can of additives every 6 months and just change the filter, never changing the oil.

When the additives wear out in a synthetic oil it still has the same viscosity. It will not thin as a mineral oil. The fear that some say Porsche has that oils thin when the VI runs out is not applicable to these synthetic oils. These oils will always have the correct thickness when hot and will still be too thick at startup as with all oils of all types, regardless of the API / SAE viscosity rating.

Automotive engine manufacturers know these principals of motor oils. They know there is thinning or thickening that will occur. They take these things into account when they write that owners manual. Mineral oil change recommendations will generally include shorter time intervals than those of synthetic oils.

The reality is that motor oils do not need to be changed because they thin with use. It is the eventual thickening that limits the time you may keep oil in your engine. The limit is both time itself (with no motor use) and/or mileage use.

End of part two.

aehaas
 
Not bad for the laymen, but somewhat wordy and it reads like a novel. Pour point depressants and base oil blending aren't addressed either, which leads to some inconsistencies due to oversimplifications. I would also insure that all the data is closer to real world values.
 
Hi,
AEHaas - I have found that research and accuracy when writing technical information wins friends -inaccuracies quickly destroys credibility

Porsche was one of the first manufacturers to make synthetic engine oil a factory fill. This was initially a Shell product (they used Shell from the 1940s) and occurred in 1992. Prior to this they were firm believers in HD oils and all oils were only Approved by Porsche when dual rated!
Subsequently they have used 5w-40 and then 0w-40 Mobil 1
So they not only believe in a 0w-40 (0w) oil they have factory filled it for years

Since 1992 a number of Service Bulletins have led owners of cars made between 1973-1992 to the following basic specifications;

To get Porsche's "Approval" the oil has to be a minimum of Group 3 synthetic and not quality rated less than ACEA A3-B3 and/or API's SH>/ILSAC GF-1, and it must meet these additional requirements:

1 - minimum of 11 mm2/s kinematic viscosity at 100C;
2 - HT/HS (CEC-L-36A-90) over 3.5 (using the Bosch test protocol)
3 - max 12 % evaporation loss (the NOACK test is done at 250C)
4 - Porsche test: volume of air bubbles in the oil (specific foaming control)
5 - 120 hours engine test of oil stability in case of 0W-40 and any ??W-30 grades
(This test which is equal to about 10k kms measures viscosity change to determine the lubricant's ability to "stay in grade". The lubricant must stay between the allowed limits of viscosity gain/loss. It is not used with 5W-XX grades due to their much better viscosity retention performance) There may be others now too

Additionally Porsche have long advocated long oil drain cycles - 20k kms (12k miles) or twelve months - when using their Approved MINERAL oils. My testing (search here in UOAs under "Porsche 928 etc...") has shown that a modern synthetic would last nearly twice that long in their engines. Porsche still advocates the same OCI today subject to use of course

Engines built prior to 1973 best survive today on modern "mixed fleet" HDEOs of the appropriate viscosity for the environment the engine is operated in. Many use a 15w-40 HDEO or a 15w-50 synthetic

In a general sense tracking various engine lubricants using a Viscosity Calculator will amaze you. Even at 60C some oils are very viscous indeed. The oil's actual operating temperature is also of interest too - many stay around 90C!

I hope this helps

Regards
Doug
MY02 Subaru Outback 2.5 manual (Delvac 1)
MY98 BMW Z3 2.8 manual (Delvac 1)
MY89 Porsche 928 S4 Auto (Delvac 1)
 
Good info Doug
cheers.gif
 
You should have used real oils for your numbers.

For M1 @75º

0w30 viscosity = 117 Cst
10w30 viscosity = 139 Cst

That’s not enough difference to get excited about here in California, not to mention the HTHS penalty you get for using 0w30.
 
These are some of the kinds of discussion I really enjoy on this forum. There are some different points of view and some of the responses reveal significant wealth of information on oils and lubrication.

Please keep these coming. I'm sure others must also be enjoying them.
 
AEHaas: I really appreciate the post. Actually I read all 9 or so articles that were posted together somewhere else. Now for a question:

You state to use the thinnest oil that yields minimum 10 psi per 1000 rpm but also note that your car requires 75 psi at 6000 rpm, which leads me to wonder do I go with the 10 psi per 1000 or the manufacturer's spec?

In my case (vehicle in signature) my engine power maxes out by 4000 rpm (presumed near redline). Mnfr spec is 40-60 psi at 2000 rpm. Running 5w30 I was getting hot 2000 rpm 35 psi (Autogauge mechanical by Autometer). I went to 10w40 and now get 44 psi hot at 2000. However, the pressure maxes out around 2000 or so rpm and never gets much higher with either the 40 or 30 wt. (Cold will run 55 psi with either weight.) So only with a 10w40 will I have minimum 40 psi at 4000 rpm, but I probably could get 20 psi at 2000 with a 5w20 (which the mnfr has back spec'ed to my truck).

My engine is not worn out. A simple road test (load then unload and watch pressure which only rose 1 - 2 psi) indicates the bottom end is in good shape. Also does not consume oil, runs great. I got a good UOA with 10w40 (Maxlife) too. So I am thinking maybe the spring on my oil pump relief valve is weak. This would rather confound things I guess.
 
TallPaul

As far as I know the 10 PSI per 1000 RPM rule is a rule of thumb. If you have at least 10 PSI per 1000 RPM a motor has the potental to live a long healthy life.
 
I wonder what the real pressure and temperatures are sometimes because it does not always make sense. TallPaul makes a good point here. The truck is now spec'd to use a 20 wt. oil yet he is using a 40 wt. oil. This has always been the trend, that we all use thicker and thicker oil.

My whole premiss is to teach people what the label really means and that it is easier to measure pressure rather than flow. We use pressure to indicate the flow. I will show why I believe that we should be using thinner oil, not thicker. Give me a month.

aehaas

[ January 16, 2005, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: AEHaas ]
 
I understand there is the rule of thumb of 10 psi per 1000 rpm, but does it really apply to all engines? I once heard it applied specifically to the Chevy small block V8.

But my question is why, if 10 psi per 1000 rpm is best, does Ford specify 40 - 60 psi at 2000 rpm for my engine (and most ford engines through at least the mid 90s or so)?

Also, I would be curious to see what Ford specifies for pressure on the new vehicles where they recommend 20 weight oil.

I think flow is important, especially to cooling, but thickness is important to maintaining a good oil wedge in the bearings. Will a 20 weight provide enough of a wedge? Or will I get more metal to metal contact with a 20 weight, especially when I am driving hard?

Higher pressure from a thicker oil means that there is less flow velocity, but the oil is still packing into the bearings and providing the needed lubrication. So long as the oil is not running too hot, all is well, but for maybe a minute difference in fuel mileage.

That said, it might be interesting for me to try a load of 20 weight just to see what the pressure does. Maybe won't keep it in over a 100 miles or so, but even so, that could be considered a flush.
 
TallPaul,

The manual always spec's for the average driver. My Mercedes has the front wheels with more toe-in than spec'd. I put a full degree of negative camber in the front whereas the spec is for some positive camber. I did these as I am hot into curves and run wider rubber.

The Ford manual says to use 5W-20 but is that what you should use after the car has 150,000 miles on it? I would think that a thicker oil might be needed at some point because of wear.

Ferraris spec 40 wt. oil but then few who buy them are racing and that is what they are set up for. Many of my counterparts at FerrariChat.com were running 50 wt. oils until recently because they thought that thicker is always better. If that was true then we should all be using 60 or 70 wt oils.

In the '70's when we were all using turbos the oil that everyone thought was best was Castrol 20W-50. Many burned up their turbos after 20 or 30,000 miles. I pounded my Volvo 760 turbo to 110,000 miles without every needing to add oil (between changes) and it was always clean. I used Pennzoil 5W-30 the whole time. I finally traded it in on my MB SEL 600 in 1992.

aehaas
 
AEHaas: Agree that high mileage engine may need thicker oil and that 20w50 seems extreme for most any application. A 50 weight is nearly twice as thick as a 30 weight. My F150 manual says to use 30 weight. Recently Ford put out a bulletin saying it could run 20 weight. With the miles on it, probably not a good idea. I suspect I could have stayed with a 30 weight, even though somewhat below manufacturer oil pressure spec.

Now many on this site are getting good UOAs with their 5w20 oils. And while the 20 weight may maintain hydrodynamic lubrication most of the time, there are transitional events where boundary lubrication comes into play. This can happen every time you hit the accelerator hard (abrupt load or speed variations), but will be less frequent with a thicker oil in general. Again, this may be more critical on a higher mileage engine that has more wear (i.e., looser clearances).

Still, would be interesting to see what pressures I get with a 20 weight oil. If I can find some really cheap stuff I might give it a short term try for the fun of it.
 
the standard remedy for leaky valve seals on toyotas is moving up to 10w40, it certainly works for me. virtually eliminated stem seal leakage in 3 Camrys I've owned after about 125k miles.
 
quote:

Originally posted by KW:
TallPaul

As far as I know the 10 PSI per 1000 RPM rule is a rule of thumb. If you have at least 10 PSI per 1000 RPM a motor has the potental to live a long healthy life.


KW, that's long been good conservative advice for a wide variety of engines, but often higher than needed or designed into new engines.What needs clarification is that it applies to max rpm and it's normal and OK for pressure to be higher than 10psi/1000rpm at lower rpms if you have 10/1000 at peak rpm.

I also saw in another thread (not by you) that if pressure is too high you should use a thinner oil. That is just plain wrong.
crushedcar.gif
If the pressure is too high, you should fix the problem, not treat the symptoms. That is just plain wrong and dangerous advice.
 
quote:

This is just theory however. With normal oil change intervals the VI improver will not wear out and so the problem does not really exist. In fact, oils do thin a little with use. This is partly from dilution with blow by gasoline and partly from VI improvers being used up.

This guys punctuation leaves much to be desired.

Anyway, VII's do shear and degrade (through oxidation) until they are useless, which is ONE reason why an oil will thicken over time. The only reason VII's work is because they are replaced at drain time. Duh!

quote:

What is more interesting is that with further use motor oils actually thicken and this is much worse than the minimal thinning that may have occurred earlier.

I disagree, I had rather have some thickening than thinning. Thinning below about 4.6 cSt results in increased wear.

quote:

The reality is that motor oils do not need to be changed because they thin with use. It is the eventual thickening that limits the time you may keep oil in your engine. The limit is both time itself (with no motor use) and/or mileage use.

I have never seen an oil thicken due to non-use. Put oil in an engine and never run it. Do you honestly think it will thicken in one year?

The limit of an oil is due to acidic buildup caused by moisture, decomposition of additives, and the fact that additives wear out or deplete over time.

[ January 17, 2005, 05:36 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by XS650:
What needs clarification is that it [the 10 psi per 1000 rpm rule] applies to max rpm and it's normal and OK for pressure to be higher than 10psi/1000rpm at lower rpms if you have 10/1000 at peak rpm.

That makes sense and fits the manufacturer's specification. Normally if you map your hot oil pressure over the rpms, it should curve above a straight line drawn from the idle to a mid/upper rpm pressure. Otherwise there is a problem. I believe there is an article on oil pressure mapping at Noria.com
 
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