Glocksters Using Mobil 1 For Their Pistols>!

[ULVER]

OK... I carry a Glock. I know of Mobil 1 synthetic lube, which I think is long gone.

Might I want to pour a bit of Mobil 1 (You tell me what Vis!!!

), in a spray bottle for "Glocking???"

http://glocktalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=546234

Gods... Do I even think of the GC implications I could enter at the Glock board!!!

 

[Blokey]

If I were to use an M1 product I'd use just the tiniest bit of M1 grease on a Glock. Glocks come from the factory with just a smudge of copper lube on the contact points so I would use a lube with similar properties to that factory lube. For these applications, I use Mr. Moly Anti-Scuff paste.
Mr. Moly earl

 

[milwaukee]

Blokey, the copper based lube that comes on a new Glock is only for break in and is a mild abrasive similar to anti sieze. It is not to be re-applied. When I attended the Glock armorer's school about 7 years ago the Glock factory recommended any "gun oil" applied in 6 droplets to the specified lube points. Glock did not recommend any lube but they gave the students a bottle of Breakfree CLP to use for the class.

I have had at least a dozen Glocks over the years and have found them to perform the best with very, very small amounts of oil. If you think a glock does not have enough oil wipe half of it away and it should be just about right.

As for gun lubes and motor oil many shooters have been using M1 for years and it works just fine and so does ATF, 30wt, 5w-20, 10w, wheel bearing grease, 3 in 1, wd40 etc etc....None of these are ideal but they all will make guns work. Most guys that use M1 on guns use the 15w-50 because they think thicker is better and on firearms this is far from ideal. Actually most modern guns (last 50 years) will work best on the thinnest oil.

The only problem I have found using engine oil on guns is that it attracts far more dirt,dust, and lint than gun oils and that is a major problem on carry guns.

Take everything you read on glocktalk with a grain of salt. I have been a member there since 1999 and it is the most "uneducated" gun board on the internet.

Ulver I keep running into you everywhere. crownvic.net....glocktalk....bitog...whats next?

 

[thooks]

Glocks need 5 drops of a good quality oil after cleaning. There are 5 lubrication points shown in the manual.

Mobil 1, as well as most any other motor oil is fine, along with the decent "gun oils" sold.


The copper-based anti-seize compound that is applied at the factory is for the purpose of keep the guns from "sticking shut" after sitting on dealer's/distributor's shelves for long periods of time. Which that has not been the case in many years.


BTW, there's a firearms forum here.

 

[Blokey]

quote:

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...have found them to perform the best with very, very small amounts of oil.

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Yup, that's what I thought.

quote:

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Blokey, the copper based lube that comes on a new Glock is only for break in and is a mild abrasive similar to anti sieze. It is not to be re-applied.

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That I did not know. OK, so I guess an oil is suitable.

quote:

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BTW, there's a firearms forum here.

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I agree. Mods, "clean up on aisle 3!"

 

[G-MAN]

You may want to consider MolaKule's Purple Problem Solver.

 

[427Z06]

I've used Breakfree CLP on my GLOCK 20 with good results. Next time I need some gun lube I'm gonna try MolaKule's Purple Problem Solver.

 

[Hirev]

In general liquid oils suck to lube the slides. They run off and dry up after awhile many of them turn into a dried up pile of doggy doo over time. Years ago I went started using NECO Moly-Slide Paste on slide rail points. Just a little dab with a tooth pick is all I do.

 

[milwaukee]

Liquid oils do not suck for lubing the slide at all. Most of them are designed to dry up and leave a thin film of barrier lubrication that does not attract lint and all other sorts of crud like grease which is a total no-no on carry guns. Concealed weapons should be carried near dry for that very reason.


Thooks,

The sixth drop goes on the barrel, evenly spread with your fingers.

Per the glock factory armorer's coure it is six drops.

Many different lubes will work just fine. I use breakfree CLP because it has never failed me and it is the most tested lubricant in history. One $4 bottle will last for years.

Urban legends aside (Iraq/sand=overuse/misuse) breakfree CLP has never failed as a gun lube.

 

[wantin150]

^^You beat me to it. Although I never went to "school", I carried a Glock for a number of years. And there are 6 lubrication points.

Regardless of what type of lube you use, anyone who carries, either on-duty or off, knows that proper maint is the key anyway. There is no one lube to just put on and forget about for months. It was my understanding that Breakfree was the type of lubricant made to be broken down every so very often and re-applied.The guys in Iraq don't just set and forget.

It used to be an old joke when we re-qualified that the instructors could always tell who took care of their weapons and who didn't. Those that had gobs of goo just cleaned them prior to qualifying to make it look like they were maintaining. The drier weapons usually passed inspection much more readily.

 

[Hirev]

quote:

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Originally posted by wantin150:
There is no one lube to just put on and forget about for months. It was my understanding that Breakfree was the type of lubricant made to be broken down every so very often and re-applied.

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Fixed it for you.

There is no one LIQUID lube to just put on and forget about for months. Sounds like you have figured out there is a problem with liquid lubes? No?.

Try a moly paste on lube points and you will see for yourself what I as well as others have learned.

As for Milwaukee post I have yet to ever see lint ever stop gun in many years around them.

On the other hand I have a seen my fair share of guns, oiled with liquid oils completely dysfunctional (mostly revolvers). Throw in a few a few frozen shut slides and bolts such as in the M16/AR15 after being around unmaintained for a six plus months. CLP works in the service because you generally clean your guns very often that the only reason it works.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Breakfree CLP.

It's cheap!
It's specialized for guns
It's good in all temperatures
It lubricates/prevents rust with the best ofem'
It sure won't loosely drip like motor oil
It won't attract airborne particles anywhere as fast as automotive oil.

I think your Glock is worth 10 cents an application.

 

[wantin150]

quote:

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Originally posted by Hirev:

quote:

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Originally posted by wantin150:
There is no one lube to just put on and forget about for months. It was my understanding that Breakfree was the type of lubricant made to be broken down every so very often and re-applied.

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Fixed it for you.

There is no one LIQUID lube to just put on and forget about for months. Sounds like you have figured out there is a problem with liquid lubes? No?.

Try a moly paste on lube points and you will see for yourself what I as well as others have learned.

As for Milwaukee post I have yet to ever see lint ever stop gun in many years around them.

On the other hand I have a seen my fair share of guns, oiled with liquid oils completely dysfunctional (mostly revolvers). Throw in a few a few frozen shut slides and bolts such as in the M16/AR15 after being around unmaintained for a six plus months. CLP works in the service because you generally clean your guns very often that the only reason it works.

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The whole point was this: Where the weapon will be broken down and cleaned/re-oiled frequently, just about anything will work.

Why would you want something to "set and forget" on a duty weapon? Those officer's (or soldiers) who are negligent in the weapon maint dept are the same ones who have failures or "frozen" guns. Back in the day of the revolver, officers would show to re-qualify with ******* green growing on the copper and the round would be frozen in the cylinder. It "may" still fire but would the bullet actually leave the barrel? Thankfully none of our guys had to find out.

Anyway, I wasn't trying to start a big "this is better than that". Some gun oils just function better when used a certain way. I have no experience with a moly paste. Never had a reason too. I broke my weapons down once a week or no less than every two, and set them back up.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I used to use M1 on my firearms for a few years and some times I would thin it out for cold winter use. I never had a problem. Molakule though told me a few years ago that their are additives in Motor oil that can casue corrosion on firearms. So I have not used motor oil since then.

 

[Tempest]

quote:

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Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Molakule though told me a few years ago that their are additives in Motor oil that can casue corrosion on firearms. So I have not used motor oil since then.

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Do you by chance remember what those additives are? Very interested.

 

[Blokey]

quote:

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Originally posted by wantin150:
Why would you want something to "set and forget" on a duty weapon?

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I don't think anyone's saying "set and forget". I think the point is that if you use a lube that has the properties such that you could "set and forget", there's a little added margin of safety and a lower chance of failure due to a gummed up weapon.

Regular maintenance on a duty weapon is still required.

 

[chevrofreak]

Triple_Se7en, CLP is nowhere near as good as you make it out to be!

I use and recomend fully synthetic gear oil for gun lube. people that have tried it love it, even over their Mobil 1.

 

[jct]

Had a Glock 21 once, left it on the dash of my truck and it melted, took me all day to clean up the mess.

 

[metroplex]

Break Free CLP is the only thing I use on firearms now. I've tried almost every OTC and mail order gun maintenance product and still prefer CLP because it does a good job in cleaning, lubricating, and preserving. It's approved for use on firearms by Bushmaster, FN Herstal, Sig, and the US military.

I use the spray bottle (which is thicker than the aerosol stuff) and it does a great job of cleaning carbon/powder residue. For the solid carbon deposits, I found Slip 2000 Carbon Killer to be quite useless actually. I tried soaking my AR15 bolt in carbon killer and it did about as much as Break Free CLP.

RemOil and 3-in-1 Multipurpose oil did fare a lot better than CLP and Slip 2000 Gun Lube in the atmospheric/environmental corrosion protection area (basically rain, moisture, outdoors) but CLP came out top in the salt-water bath test (non-SAE/non-MIL, but basically simulates soaking your gun in the ocean for a few hours).

 

[Tempest]

quote:

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Originally posted by jct:
Had a Glock 21 once, left it on the dash of my truck and it melted, took me all day to clean up the mess.

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Pics please!!

Any lube that will properly lubricate an engine/trans/dif of a car will easily lubricate a gun. It's the C and P of "CLP" where guns specific lubes shine. Automotive oils are designed to work in a very different environment (cleaner) than gun lubes are.