How good of a gun lubricant is FP-10?

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According to what I have been able to find out, FP-10 is used by the Navy Seals and Special Froces like the Delta Force. I went to a 1911 .45 forum/discussion web site and several shooters mentioned it. I decided to order some and give it a try.

What do all of the shooters here say about FP-10?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mystic:
According to what I have been able to find out, FP-10 is used by the Navy Seals and Special Froces like the Delta Force. I went to a 1911 .45 forum/discussion web site and several shooters mentioned it. I decided to order some and give it a try.

What do all of the shooters here say about FP-10?


Here's a review:
http://hunting.about.com/library/weekly/aa040499.htm

I would not use an oil on the slide of a semi auto handgun. Use a very small amount of grease instead. I use Schaeffer's 221 #2, same stuff I use for suspension ball joints on cars. Works great!
 
I on the other hand have heard NOT to use grease. The reason being is that grease is thicker, obviously, and that slows down the slide. Something you do not necessarily want in a defensive handgun. Plus grease traps and holds gunk (sand, dirt, etc...) better than weapons oil.

Besides....FP-10 smells of cinnamon....yummm.
It's also supposed to be formulated for stainless on stainless contact to counteract galling.

Tim
 
I use FP-10 and really like it. I have a friend who works for one of the major ammo companies and he says it is the best stuff there is. In real cold weather you may want to use a dry type lube. In general I find that Shooter's Choice products are good. They make FP-10.
 
I looked at some stuff on the internet and one guy who is associated with a gun magazine said that when he tried Firepower FP-10, he discovered that it is average as a cleaner and really good as a protector and lubricant. So maybe clean the gun first with a Shooter's Choice product (Extreme Clean?) or with Hoppes No. 9, and then use FP-10.
 
I'm using FP-10 and I'm pretty happy with it.On the FP-10 website the owner of the company say's to put a patch on the brush to swab and scrub at the same time.I tried this on my step daughters Ruger 77/44 and it seemed to work real well but the gun wasn't all that dirty to begin with.If it was real dirty I would use Hoppes like Mystic said.I know they had some interesting papers on halagonated hydrocarbons.I think their technology is similar to Militec.
 
I use it and it works well. I like the fact that it's a CLP so it can be the only thing you need to take with you into the field.
But I really feel that Militec-1 is a superior lube. Racking the slide on a 1911 is smoother with the Militec than with FP-10. Who knows. I use both, as well as Wilson's Ultima-Lube from time to time.
I know that George Fennel, the developer of FP-10 states a good case for his product. Subjectively though, Militec-1 seems to lube better.
 
I use FP-10 quite a bit and have found it to be excellent. I use it after cleaning the bores on my rifles placing a thin coat in the bore. It does not effect the cold shot at all. As far as liquid lubes it is the best I have tried yet. I use solvents to clean oils to lube some like a product that does both but I have never had very good luck with any. Some solvents such as Sweets with a high amonia contenet are pretty agressive so thats why after a rinse I use the FP-10.
 
Hi Big Daddy, What do you think of Tw25B and Tetra products?

The good thing about M-Pro 7 is that it is very effective and 100% non-toxic, noncorrosive and safe just don't get it on wood.
 
I do not have much experience with those lubes but have heard good things about them.

I too usually use grease for the slides of my 1911's, usually shooters choice or S.T.O.S (I don't know if this is still on the market). I have never had functioning problems and the grease does not evaporate over time, My gun is carried a lot and not shot as much as I would like and is often exposed to the elements and I find grease the best answer.
 
My question is this..... the wife keeps a Ruger 357 wheel gun in the nightstand. It hasn't been fired in 5 years. Maybe once a year I take it and run a patch thru it and see it if it seems to work. I live in a place where the humidity is high. If I had my druthers it'd be a ss gun but it isn't. How would you recommend I give this gun lasting lubrication and protection, and still have it at the ready?
 
I like it when the companies post test results, such as the one from FP10 below. Smaller number is better. I found a few bottle of Break Free LP on sale awhile back, but it looks like I should use it for tool storage.

http://www.fp10.com/

INDEX NO. PRODUCT NAME
0.9 Firepower FP-10 Lubricant EliteTM
2.0 Eezox Synthetic Gun Oil
2.1 Tetra Gun Grease (synthetic)
3.3 Minuteman High Tech Gun Oil
6.2 TRI-FLOW (PTFE)
6.6 Tetra-Gun Oil (fluorocarbon synthetic)
7.0 Pro-lix Dry Film Lube
24.8 Blue Spectre Gun Oil (moly disulfide)
27.8 Molube-Alloy (moly disulfide) 777-1
27.9 TUFOIL (PTFE)
30.2 Break Free CLP (PTFE)
34.6 Birchwood-Casey “Sheath”
39.9 Hornaday “ONE SHOT” (aerosol)
43.6 Sports Lube Rod & Gun Oil
48.4 Kleenbore Super Lube (aerosol)
49.3 LSA Springfield Armory
52.7 Rusty Duck
52.7 Pro-Shot All Weather Gun Oil
54.4 3 in 1 “Plus” (aerosol)
55.2 WD-40
56.6 RNI Liquid Gunsmith
58.8 Military Lube oil AXS-72 (obsolete)
62.8 G-96 Gun Treatment (aerosol)
65.0 Parker-Hale Express Gun Oil
67.4 Hoppes lube oil
68.3 Rem-oil w/Teflon (PTFE)
71.1 Kleenbore Formula 3 oil
72.1 RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube
73.8 Koppers/S.A. All Weather Weapons Lube
77.3 Kleeroil (Am. Writing Ink Co.)
79.6 TRI-FLON (oil w/PTFE)
102.9 Super Lube jel (Bohemia, NY) PTFE
499.0 Break Free LP (lube/preservative) PTFE
 
Try the link below, remove the 'remove' on both ends and paste in your browser. This site doesn't like the parenthesis.

removehttp://www.fp10.com/htmls/FRICTION%20%20WEAR%20%20&%20%20ABRASION%20%20TESTS-FP-10(TES73-76).htmremove
 
quote:

2.0 Eezox Synthetic Gun Oil

WooHoo!!

EEZOX is #2!

Great stuff!
fruit.gif
 
A guy tested a few products for corrosion and Eezox came out top with Break Free CLP close in 2nd.

It looks like FP-10 is at least making an effort to qualify to meet/exceed the MIL Spec.
 
Break Free CLP is the only thing that carries the MIL-Spec AFAIK. There's another CLP that carries the mil-spec and is issued to troops but its more or less the same.

FP-10's website hosts the proposed 63460-E spec (dated 8/00) but you can't meet a proposed spec since it hasn't been finalized. If you read through it, it now employs the use of M16A1/A2, and the M-249 SAW for test rifles. In rev-D, they used an M-60.

If someone else carried the Mil-Spec, they'd be issued to soldiers as well. I see a lot of "meets/exceeds" Mil-Spec but the thing is there are 4 revisions of the original spec. It could very well have met the spec at one time but only Break Free CLP meets the latest spec and is issued to soldiers.

The guys that went to Desert Storm/Gulf War I used CLP w/o any problems. I don't see why there's such a big problem in Gulf War II other than the fact that Jessica Lynch's group had jamming issues and was highly publicized. Most of the soldiers that don't see a lot of combat training just squirt a buttload of CLP into their rifles and well duh, of course its going to attract sand. Coupled with a tiny and LONG gas tube - they probably squirt it inside the tube and it jams up, causing it to misfeed or something like that. Which is why that one guy (that killed 9 Iraqis before being capture) had to manually load ammo into his M-16.

On the AK/RPK, there's no long and tiny gas tube. You have a gas orifice that runs like 0.5cm, then you have a gas piston and gas tube with about a 0.5" inside diameter. You can't jam that up unless you throw a rock inside or something. Makes you wonder why the M-16 has a bolt hold open feature (its easier to manually load ammo this way) and why the AK doesn't have the bolt hold open feature (you have to hold the bolt open yourself with 2 hands, so you'd need a 3rd hand to manually load).

FWIW I used CLP and wasn't too impressed on the lubricity properties... it seemed very thin and didn't do much. Militec-1 is thicker but when you wipe it off, there's some slickness (not oily/greasy slickness) that seems to not rub out. The action on my RPK felt a lot smoother.

I will try out Militec-1 at the range as per their instructions (fire 1 round, brush militec-1 inside the bore, fire another round, repeat process) and see how the bore looks afterwards.

[ July 13, 2004, 07:47 AM: Message edited by: metroplex ]
 
Slip 2000 gun oil says it exceeds all MIL-L-63460 tests. You can read this on their web site.

It also says it got a .54 wear scar on the 4 ball and Break Free got .8. So it is a better lube then Break Free and does not contain any petrollum distilats or PTFE. It is non-toxic and all natral. I think I'm going to try it.
 
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