Oil filter choice.

[JAF]

Hi Guys,

I'm looking for a recommendation on an oil filter for my newly rebuilt motor. It's a Chevy BB 427 bored 0.070 over. It was built by a local race shop and dynoed at around 450hp. The builder (who has a really good reputation) wants me to run Mobil 1 15W-50 because of the way the clearances are set in engine. He also plugged the oil bypass in the block and installed high volume (not high pressure) oil pump. My oil pressure runs about 40psi at idle when warm and +60psi otherwise. He also recommend I run a Fram HP4 filter. I am looking for some other filter recommendations. It needs to be capable of high pressures. So far I have come up with Fram HP4, Wix 51060R, and Baldwin B279. I'm leaning towards the Wix just because of availability. The car sees only a 1000 miles a year and I change the oil once a year just before I stop driving it before winter.

Thanks.

 

[Patman]

I'd go with the K&N, it flows a ton of oil and it's got a very high burst strength. It's a perfect filter for high horsepower and hard driving.

 

[Mr Magoo]

Isn't the K&N filter = to Mobil 1 filter? I think FilterGuy once said the only difference is the nut on the end of the K&N.

 

[Steve S]

No need to run a special filter with your oil pressures . Fram hp filters are not needed at all. I would replace the filter adapter to get the oil filter bypass valve back. If there is room get a 2 qt filter for a 427 chevrolet truck I think the Fram number is ph 393.

 

[Steve S]

Originally posted by Mr Magoo:
Isn't the K&N filter = to Mobil 1 filter? I think FilterGuy once said the only difference is the nut on the end of the K&N. [/QUOTE No not even close.

 

[T-Keith]

The K&N and Mobil 1 have different medias and the M1 has a silicone ADBV.

I'd use a Purolator Premium Plus, it outflows the K&N by a fair margin.

-T

 

[bbcmat]

AC Delco PF35L - high flow synthetic media, backed up with screen on both sides, no drainback valve.

IMO and experience.

MAT

 

[LarryL]

I'd run Delo 400 15w-40 until I was sure the rings are seated, like passing a leak-down. I don't want to get flamed but a couple of BB's we have built showed a lot of valve train wear with flat tappet cams. It you car is a 1k a year driver, a POE oil like Red Line might stick around better when the car is parked. We are trying Lube Control in engines that get parked a lot, in the oil, and an ounce or so down the spark plug hole, kick the engine over a couple of times and park it. If we had a life we might skip the whole thing all together.

 

[NovaMan]

quote:

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Originally posted by LarryL:
I don't want to get flamed but a couple of BB's we have built showed a lot of valve train wear with flat tappet cams.

---

I got flamed on another board for wanting to run a flat tappet cam in a BBC. People claimed with 120# on the seat and 330# open, I'd wipe the lobes off the cam. I did alot of digging on the internet and found there are two things that caused alot of flat tappet cam failures in the past few years:

1. Reduction of ZDDP content in oil, which is critical for flat tappet cams. The solution to this is to use an oil that you know has non-reduced amounts of zinc, like Valvoline Racing oil, and add a bottle of GM EOS engine oil supplement).

2. There were three companies that made almost all the flat tappets for domestic engines: Eaton, Stanadyne, and Johnson. Eaton quit making lifters, and Johnson went out of business or got bought or something. That left Stanadyne, and it seems quality probably went down the tubes so they could meet the demand. Correct hardness and curvature of the face that rides on the cam lobe are the critical things for a lifter. Hardness is hard to check, so you'll just have to roll the dice on that. To check for proper curvature, take two lifters and put them face-to-face. (Or put the face of a lifter against a surface that is known to be flat.) They should only contact in the center. Hold them up to a light if necessary.

Another thing you can do, mentioned in How to Hotrod Big Block Chevys, is to chuck the new lifters in a high speed lathe and polish the faces gently with solvent-wetted 600 grit sandpaper. Remember, just lightly; you're not trying to reshape the lifter!

 

[bbcmat]

I ran a custom grind comp cam 268/274 646",669" tight lash gross lift flat tappet with 0.842" HTL pressure fed lifters at 150/390lbs with no complaints after the break in - 1.7 ratio rockers.

Proper lifter bore indexing is the key to running hot flat tappet cams in a BBC - and that costs $$.


MAT

 

[NovaMan]

By "pressure fed lifters" do you mean the ones with a little (0.021" or so) hole in the bottom?

 

[TheTanSedan]

1. BALDWIN "HPG" B6-HPG
2. DONALDSON "Endurance" P166564
3. FLEETGUARD "Stratapore" LF3488

These filters have no real peer in the market. They are all synthetic media, extended-service, XHD full flow, spin-on filters. I buy mine from either filter wholesalers or big truck dealerships. K&N, Mobil One, WIX, FRAM, etc are simply not in this class.

 

[TheTanSedan]

Just re-read original post. B279 Baldwin is set up for bypass.

Another advantage of synthetic media filters (when spec'd) is that they need no glue to hold the media together, glue that eventually deteriorates. AND low-restriction filtration means less wear at cold start up.

http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/

http://www.donaldson.com/en/index.html

http://www.fleetguard.com/fleet/en/index.jsp

 

[JAF]

quote:

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Originally posted by TheTanSedan:
Just re-read original post. B279 Baldwin is set up for bypass.

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I assume what your saying is that most Chevy blocks have a bypass in them, hence, most Chevy filters DO NOT have an internal bypass. However, the Baldwin B1441 (15 psi) and B279 (20 psi)(racing filter) both have internal bypasses. Thus, a backup relief in case something is blocked. I assume going that route (filter with a bypass) is defeating blocking the block in the first place. Not sure what the block bypass are set at but maybe with the B279 (20 psi) it would still force more oil though the filter. The ONLY reason I have stuck with the Fram HP4 is because of the fact it also has an internal bypass and all the filters (K&N, Mobil 1, Wix, ect.) do not for the Chevy engines.

I need to call Baldwin and find out the specs first but I think I'm getting closer.

 

[NovaMan]

I think the block bypass is supposed to open when there is >4psi difference in pressure between inlet and outlet.