Oil recommendation for solid roller....

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Ill be running spring pressures of 235 on the seat and 585 over the nose. This is in an aluminum headed 355 sbc. It will see limited street duty and rpms to 7200(give or take 100 or 2).

Mobil 1,Valvoline racing,royal purple???

I used to run Kendall back when it was green. I have been out of the game for a while and just need a little direction.

Thanks
Ray in Bama
 
Ray, Brad Penn Oils, do a google search for the site. It is the old Kendall Refinery, in Bradford Penn. with the same old GREEN GT-1, 20-50 and Nitro 70!

The HDEO Diesel Oils, Dino or Synthetic may be the way to go. Good Luck
 
Schaeffers makes a great racing oil,,#705 Supreme 20w-50,semi,,,,this stuff is the one to use,,,,check around or site sponsor,,,,BL
 
Nova.....Im looking for both I guess. I will be firing the engine tomarrow morning(one the neighborhood is awake)

IF possible I want somthing I can get local and not have to special order it.

Ill check out schaeffers.

Pastmaster.. I thought about the diesel oils but not sure how they would perform in a HIGH rpm application.
 
I don't think you need to be too concerned about ZDDP content since it's a roller setup. With those spring pressures, it seems like you'd need an oil with good EP content (moly). If you used moly assembly lube, then you probably don't really need to be concerned with the moly content of the break-in oil.
After you drain that out and change the filter, you might consider adding VSOT to a regular SL/SM street oil, which ought to give you good moly and zinc content (ZDDP is not just an AW additive). Remember: when using additives, start out with one ounce per quart of oil capacity.

But I still consider myself a newbie, so take my advice with an appropriately sized grain of salt.
 
quote:

Originally posted by NovaMan:
I don't think you need to be too concerned about ZDDP content since it's a roller setup. With those spring pressures, it seems like you'd need an oil with good EP content (moly). If you used moly assembly lube, then you probably don't really need to be concerned with the moly content of the break-in oil.
After you drain that out and change the filter, you might consider adding VSOT to a regular SL/SM street oil, which ought to give you good moly and zinc content (ZDDP is not just an AW additive). Remember: when using additives, start out with one ounce per quart of oil capacity.

But I still consider myself a newbie, so take my advice with an appropriately sized grain of salt.


585 pounds open valve spring pressure High additive levels.
 
If you want to keep your roller set-up intact ensure the roller bearings get lots of oil flow.
High bearing speed=high flow requirement.
High bearing speed=low viscosity.
 
I run 265 on seat with 700 over the nose.Been running mobil1 5-30 and am not impressed at all with the amount of stuff in my oil and how it does not like Alky.I had to replace 4 sets of crane pro lifters with 125 1/4 passes.Very strange looking imprints on the roller wheels also.I am switching to Delo 400 and V.S.O.T.For the amount of times I plan on changing the oil I cannot justify in my mind running $5.00 a quart oil for protection that seems marginal in my app.
P.S. KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR LASH CLOSELY!
 
SonnyJames,

You mention strange looking imprints on the roller wheels. were you able to diagnose what exactly caused the problem???? valve float?

Pretty hard to beat the Crower severe duty or Isky red zone lifters, the only 2 that I'm aware of that have the true direct fed oiling to the needles.
 
Solid rollers are rough on the street and may not last long. Honestly I would look into maybe beehive springs or something because IMO that is too much pressure for that low an rpm if you expect anything to actually last.

I would consider a diesel oil they may not run high rpms but they do run a lot of seress on components so they tend to be high additive.
 
The crane lifters I am using have forced oiling to the bearing.As for the marks its hard to say. I had some aluminum material in the oil but am leaning more towards high spring pressur causing stress marks on the rollers and an oil that didnt protect right.I run rev kits and high pressures so valve float is null..reason why I know this is because there is no criss-cross patterns on any of my valve stem tips.
 
One of the reasons for running a 20W50 is so that when the alky thins the oil (due to fuel dilation), you have enough film thickness reserve to keep things from wearing too much.

I would never a run 5w30 with Ethanol or Methanol.
 
A rev kit and spring pressures like that
shocked.gif
even with pressure lubed roller I think you are asking for lobe damage.

My application is factory equipped hydraulic roller even with fairly aggressive hydraulic rollers we run a full 100# less on the seat without a rev kit. No valve float is a good thing but I think you can accomplish it with substantially less abuse to the valvetrain.
 
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