Oil and filter for cam break-in (454 BBC)

[NovaMan]

I have a big block Chevy that started life in 1987 as a crate motor. I'm installing a Crane 134691 cam and Howards DirectLube solid flat-tappets (to match my vintage Edelbrock TR2X tunnel ram). Some people pass out if you mention "flat-tappet" and "big block Chevy" in the same sentence, but I wonder if some of that is due to the decrease in ZDDP content of street oils. Still, I want to give my setup every advantage possible so I don't have to rebuild the whole engine while listening to people say "I told you so!"

Here's my plan of attack:
1. Outer valve springs only during break-in
2. Howards lifters
3. Moly assembly lube on the cam
4. A good oil with decent ZDDP content
5. A pint of GM EOS

Here are my questions:
1. What oil should I use? I'm partial to Valvoline (sentimental), so I was thinking maybe Valvoline Conventional Racing Oil or VR1. How much moly do I need? Do I need much detergent? 10W30 or straight 30?
2. What filter? It doesn't make sense to me to use a super-duper tiny-pore synthetic media filter because it would probably clog up right away and then all the oil would go through the bypass. Therefore it would also seem to make sense to use a big filter, maybe a Wix 51794?

 

[Shannow]

Straight 30, EOS, plenty of (moly grease like) cam lube.

Straight up to 2500RPM, and hold it there for 20-30 minutes barring the inevitable water/oil/fuel leaks

I'd use a good cheap filter, nothing too fine.

And do it in Summer, not winter.

 

[bbcmat]

Conventional racing oil and large bottle of EOS - pour 1/2 EOS over the rockers / balls.

Have fans avail to blow on headers / exhaust manifolds, a garden hose into the radiator tank (no cap) adjusted to keep temps at your thermostat set point.(will overflow - of course)

PF35L AC Delco oil filter - good flow and excellent filtration - high capacity for debris and assembly junk.

Make sure you don't get assembly lube up on the sides of the lifters - will drag on the free rotation of the lifter until it gets washed away.

I keep a fire extinguisher close by - no use losing the garage and the car over an "oopps".

IMO

MAT

 

[Shannow]

bbcmat, excellent advice on the fire extinguisher.

I was doing the cam run-in on a Holden 6 with triple S.U. carbs, which sit straight over the headers. I hadn't refurbed the carbs, as the came straight off a running engine (allegedly).

When everything was nice and hot, all three carb float bowls flooded ove rthe exhaust system.

It all evaporated fortunately.

 

[NovaMan]

I run a PF35L on my small block, but apparently AC Delco switched to imported PF35Ls which are inferior. Is this the good kind? I need to know how to ID the good ones so that if AutoZone has them I can buy them all.

So Valvoline Conventional Racing Oil in straight 30 weight, eh? Sufficient ZDDP content for flat tappets and reduced detergent since it'll be used for less than an hour?

What size is the big bottle of EOS? As far as I can tell it's only available in pint bottles.

 

[motorheadnelson]

Instead of moly I like either Red Line assembly lube or Comp Cams Pro Lube. Moly has a tendency to clog things and build up in areas. These lubes are very high pressure, cling well, yet mix with oil. Never a problem. My 2 1/2 cents......

 

[motorheadnelson]

Oops, before I step down, I use NAPA non-detergent 30W. Packaged for NAPA by Ashland Oil (Valvoline). Usually save a couple bucks over the Branded product. As mentioned, you just need a basic filter. You will throw it away after run-in anyway. Just need to catch any stray machining metal and shop rag lint. Vary the speed between 2000-2500 during run in. Helps lifters get acquainted to cam better. Change oil, check lash, have fun!!

 

[NovaMan]

After spending way too much time on the computer, I confirmed that NAPA NO75115 non-detergent SAE30 motor oil is the same as Valvoline VV265 non-detergent SAE30 motor oil, and they're API service SJ. The MSDSs list the ZDDP content as percent by volume, which is not particularly helpful since I don't know the density of ZDDP.

Another thing I noticed is that the ZDDP Valvoline uses in their Conventional Racing Oil is CAS RN 68988-45-4, and the ZDDP in NAPA/Valvoline SAE30 ND oil is CAS RN 68649-42-3. It seems with the racing ZDDP, the alkyl groups are 2-ethylhexane, isobutane, and pentane. The ZDDP in the non-detergent oil has various C1-C14 alkyl groups.

Questions:
1. Does anyone have any idea how much ZDDP is in NAPA NO75115/Valvoline VV265?
2. Would detergent be harmful to the break-in process, or do I just not need it?
3. Why do I not want a multi-viscosity oil?

 

[NovaMan]

bbcmat: I am a nut!

Mickey: yes, it seems that, in general, non-detergent oils are API service SB. NAPA lists it as SJ, but maybe that's a typo.

Anyway, why do I not want detergents, and why do I not want a multigrade oil?

 

[bbcmat]

I import the filters by the case via GM dealership - the one in the picture is the same as the batch I am working through now.

I always used 20W50 conventional motor oil on my BBC break ins - the add pack in the EOS will make the base oil's add pack irrelevant.(IMO)

EOS is sold in a smaller 4 cylinder size, and the larger 8 cylinder size last time I bought it.

If you want to be a nut - use 1/2 a large bottle in the oil change right after the break in cycle (put back inners) - and the remaining 1/2 of the bottle on the 3rd change.

I would not go to a synthetic non-racing oil until the last oil change - and then would suppliment it with 1/4 of the container of EOS or 1/3 bottle of TORCO MPZ additive.

Another poster mentioned varying the rpm during break-in - good advice.

IMO

MAT

 

[Mickey_M]

quote:

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NovaMan:
..... I confirmed that NAPA NO75115 non-detergent SAE30 motor oil is the same as Valvoline VV265 non-detergent SAE30 motor oil, and they're API service SJ. ....

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I don't believe any non-detergent oil can meet API Service SJ requirements.

A non-detergent oil would probably be API Service SA.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/API.html


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