360 sprint engine on dirt of course...

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nampa, idaho
OK,
I run a 360 ( 363.4 to be exact ) SBC in a dirt sprint. If anyone knows anything about sprint cars is they are terribly hard on engines and cranks specifically as the harmonics tend to go through all the internals as there is nothing really to absorb much due to the fact there isn't much there to absorb anything except the driveline( 25-30 in hollow Ti. ) or the water pump on the front.
anyway, I have tried quite a few oils , and I have a good idea what I will continue to use, but in an engine that is either wfo or or really wfo and spins on average a max rpm of 7900 to 8600 some a shade higher some a shade lower.. I try to stay at 7900-8100.. what would you all recommend..? I usually change oil ( dry sump, 11 qts system) every other night and also filter ( HP4 ) with a drain of the pan in between and inspect of the magnetic drain plug for checks. I tend to stay dino simply because of the frequency and cost. my biggest issue is at full temp they all tend to thin too much to the point of being low at low throttle, etc... a few ways i've combatted is hy-per lube additive or the like . suggestions in this area as well.. usin 20w-50 of course. thanx,
m.harris 44H
 
Contact Molakule and Specialty formulations. You will get a cutting edge formula that would cost you $30 a qt from most other oil companies, for a competitive price..from Mola.

As a former Sprint Racer/Driver ,Welcome.
 
hey, hows things..? me.. yea, just doin the 552 mi. each way still . it sux but it is what it is. the peace an quiet does me good most of the time. had a hellacious few weeks a couple weeks back. started when #3 rod didnt wanna play with the others and left the building. pulled an all nighter, and next day right till push off to get out for the C main and get my 500 start money. did .. well sorta, but I got the start money. then the next week start on the pole w./ the borrowed shortblock and runnin 2nd blow a valve cover gasket, yes the SS core one also( pit help error ) so that was that. following week blow a head gasket in the commuter car(96 t-bird 3.8) finally done w/ that and doin a block and 2 rods to take back up and rebuild the bullet. need to get one journal on the crank reworked but its not too bad.
funny ya should mention 25w50 penz. thats what I had in when it went kaboom.... it makes a mess like the rest.... specially when mixed w/ water and chunks of block... lol. it wasnt an oil issue I believe either a rod bearing spun or a bolt stretched/broke or cap failure then spun the bearing , had 80-90 psi at boom .. I was lookin coincidentally.. no real warning just a bit sluggish off 2 and boom enterin 3 just like that.all other rods /mains look great so it wasnt an oiling issue. but it all has to be rebuilt regardless.. I'll figure out why once I can check it all closer..
be smooth.. be fast..
44H
 
Pennzoil 25W-50 is a good oil. For the heat of the summer you may want Pennzoil straight 50 if you have a heater in your oil tank.
 
Covert Racing and Specialty Formulations are currently testing a racing oil and a gear lube. We are getting VERY POSITIVE results.
 
Yea, i'd have to agree with ya. but I do all night every night the majority of the time. not much of an issue really. failures are rare if you stay on top of things, but things break.. thats the way it is. I'm just askin a few pretty simple questions.. but I can turn 8500 8600 on a rare occasion thing and not stress to much.. i've watched haud turn one of forbrooks 9600 and never flinched...
44H
 
410 of course.. that happened the night we were at eagle neb. the eagle nationals or whatever they call it. oh by the way haud swept the weekend. night 2 lapped s.kinser who was 7th at the time. 40 laps no yellows , him an schatz swapped lead like 20 times. best race id ever seen in my life. and bonus I worked on the winning team..
44H
 
As a brief update, I rebuilt the engine, actually used a diff block an had it sleeved, had crank worked over, using 6" rods stead of 5.7" to help the hi side loading and clearance issues under the piston, plus its what I had w/ pistons to match. All went together good, just needed a bit more time, but ya know. So I fire it up and forget that my jetting was too fat, so I finally remember that and wow, she ran great. I had a separate issue on my first lap of qualifying . I'll leave the link so ya can see for yourself. I am the 2nd row of pics....
http://fc.csf.bc.ca/~darren_manweiler/SkagitVideo
 
Define ok....??
if ok means ok for a boat anchor then its ok...
if ok means ok for a planter then its ok...
but as a racecar chassis, it would take quite a bit of work to even get it back to a 'raceable' state. I haven't looked real close mainly cuz I couldn't see all that well the next day, I'm leaving tomorrow afternoon to assemble a near new 2004 DRC 88/40 that I was fortunate enough to have someone step up and buy for me from doug rutz in canada.
So I have this week a 3 day thrash to rebuild and re-assemble a whole new car basically. should be big fun... atleast its only callin for the 70's up there. That humidity kicks my as..but.
44H
 
Michael, my brother runs an aluminum 419 SBC Alky motor in his late model, and he runs Valvoline VR1 20w-50 and a Wix 51060R filter.
 
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