Racing synthetic oil or standard synthetic?

[kwikcad500]

Hello all,
I'm new to this board so forgive me if i'm a bit dumb on what all the terms and numbers mean, but thats why i'm here. I'm a drag racer so this is what my questions to this topic will revolve around. I drag race a 78 Coupe Deville thats powered by a 511 c.i. Cadillac and runs 10.70's in the 1/4 in good air, its a purpose built motor, no street use, 13.4 to 1 comp, Eagle rods, Ross forged pistons, the block is filled up to about 2-3 inches of the deck. The main journals are 3.25" w/.003 clearence and the rod journals are 2.5" w/.0026 clearence. I have no oil cooler as of right now, and no oil temp guage, but i'm installing one soon. I shift @ 5700 and go through the traps @ 5900rpm. Here are a couple of question for you guys.......What type of synthetic oil should i use, racing synthetic oil or standard synthetic oil? I know that the racing oils have low detergent to help resist detonation and provide more base stocks , but i want my motor to stay clean, but also want really good wear protection. I have been using 40wt Red Line racing oil, but i might be switching to Amsoil's 20/50 series 2000. Also, which brand is better? What important things should i look for in an oil besides the HTHS number? I know i have quite a bit of learning to do about oil, i'm still tring to understand all the facts and what properties to look for in a superior synthetic oil, any help is welcome. Sorry about all the questions in one post.

 

[pitzel]

Custom-built engines do not have any hard or set rules insofar as the most effective lubricant. In essence, you will have to do your own research, customizing with UOA, to determine the answer to the question you pose.

Probably best to consult with an expert in the field of oil tuning, ie: Terry Dyson. Without some form of UOA and interpretation, you are pretty much shooting in the dark insofar as whether you are better off with the 40wt oil, the 20W50, or some other alternative.

 

[SSDude]

You stated that you want protection and to keep your engine clean. Redline does exactly that. Redline is ester based oil and will achieve both of your goals.

 

[bbcmat]

10W40 TR-1 Torco conventional racing oil - hit the burnout box with 125F in the block - start your pass at 140F - buy it by the 5 gal pail to save $$ (if that's important vs PITA of decanting)

Extreme pressure additive pack biased to oil running below normal operating temperature - also base stock will handle moisture better than synthetics (IMO and experience). The bearings / lifters / bores look grreat on the motors I seen using this oil - and my own 509ci street driven big block chev pushrods / rockers / valve tips looks great (unused) after one summer of cruising and a couple of test n tune days at the track. (780+hp)

They also have a racing synthetic line - but I don't have enough info on anything but the 0W20 qualifying oil.

IMO - great conventional oil - changed often - cannot be beat in a bracket buildup engine program.

MAT