Plugging the block bypass in a SBC

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When I built the 350 for my C20 almost five years ago, I had just read John Lingenfelter's book on SBC's, and two upgrades he advised for the lubrication system were to use a Z/28 oil pump (standard volume/higher pressure ~60 psi) and to plug the oil filter bypass in the oil filter mount (aka the "in block bypass") in order to force all the oil through the filter. He advised that when doing so, it is critical to use a free-flowing oil filter, use oil that flows well cold, and be very gentle in throttle usage until the oil warms up.

Well, I did all these things.

I've had no problems.

Any thoughts or comments on plugging the block bypass on a SBC?
 
I'd ask-
What brand oil filter, and what part #?
What wt oil?
You live in LA? How cold does it get for the cold starts?
You've cut open the filters and nothing was wrong inside?
How long (miles) has it been plugged up?
It would be interesting for sure...

The majority of bypass operation should be at cold thick oil and high rpms...maybe you've actually been avoiding it.

interesting...
 
I wouldn't do it. If the filter is "free flowing" enough to not restrict the oil, then it won't go into bypass. If at some point it becomes to restrictive(perhaps over use) then either the engine is starved for oil or the filter media collapses. He may have been an expert at getting horsepower, but this modification shows very little thought.

-T
 
I think that this mod, although widely adopted by many engine builders, is somewhat flawed in concept. I can see no gain or advantage to doing this. It would be far wiser, if room permits, to just assure that the filter has enough media (as was mentioned the larger filter ..or a dual setup) to handle any potential volume/surge.
 
I always have done this. I've never had a problem........But since it was my car I knew not to "get on it" till it was warmed up.

Probly not a good idea to do this on a customers car since you don't know how they drive.

I'm in the Socal desert and cold temps are not the norm.
 
It's not just the danger, but the fact that there just can't be an advantage.

Chris, in your case, if you never drive in a situation that requires a bypass then the bypass will never be open. So what's the point?

-T
 
Nuts.

That's the last line of defense against bearing damage should the filter malfunction.

That's no upgrade in my book.
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:

Chris, in your case, if you never drive in a situation that requires a bypass then the bypass will never be open. So what's the point?

-T


Cause the "How to hotrod small block Chevy's" book said to.

I was 19 back then and didn't know any better.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ZR2RANDO:
I'd ask-
What brand oil filter, and what part #?
What wt oil?
You live in LA? How cold does it get for the cold starts?
You've cut open the filters and nothing was wrong inside?
How long (miles) has it been plugged up?
It would be interesting for sure...

The majority of bypass operation should be at cold thick oil and high rpms...maybe you've actually been avoiding it.

interesting...


ACDelco PF35L filters always

Mobil 1 5W-30

The coldest it gets here in L.A. is around 30 or so. The truck was up in WA for 3 years and saw temps as low as 15 (but it was always started in a garage where the temp never dropped below 40).

I have not cut open the filters. I have changed my oil and filter on a time basis (every 3 months while using Havoline 5W-30 to break it in [first 3,500 miles], and now every 6 months with M1).

It has been plugged since before the engine was first run (almost 5 years), about 5,500 miles on it now.

It has an 8 quart Moroso sump, and I can't use the 2-qt filters because of clearance problems with the sump
frown.gif
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I never have even slightly pushed it until the oil pressure drops into the normal operating range. I have revved up numerous times to 6,300 rpm. It cruises at 3,000 - 3,500 rpm on the highway (4.10 gears and no OD).

Thanks for all the replies!
 
If Lingenfelter said it, it's gospel. For those here that don't know who John Lingenfelter was (and I'm sensing some don't), he was an engine building/car building/racing ICON. Not some fly on the wall trolling the internet with half baked ideas. He built some of the most powerful and fastest cars/trucks money could buy. When he was alive, he probably forgot more about engines than most people will ever know in their lifetime. Bottom line, leave the Z pump in and leave the bypass blocked. Questions like this will make the man turn in his grave.
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www.lingefelter.com for the uninitiated.

[ June 25, 2005, 02:32 AM: Message edited by: 99 ]
 
I think it is a very good idea for a close tolerance "tight" purpose built SBC,where you might spin a bearing or wipe a cam lobe. You want all that debris stopped at the filter, now on grandaddy's sbc caprice wagon it's prolly over kill.
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:
He may have been an expert at getting horsepower, but this modification shows very little thought.

-T


This modification was originally pioneered by Bill Jenkins "Grumpy" for racing engines. It was not about "very little thought" it was more about real world experience.

Have you ever seen people like Bill Jenkins, John Lingenfelter and some of their NHRA record holding cars in real life? In hot dusty pits at NHRA National events. Putting new parts in place of failed parts in there motors sometimes with no oil change. Because of time between rounds. I have. "very little thought" Doesn't seem like a fair statement to me.

I can still remember well one of Lingenfelter Super Stock Corvette's, the 454 one yanking the front wheels many feet in the air leaving the line than crushing the oil pan when it came down.

Keeping leftover metal and dust from ever getting circulated through the motor was the idea behind it. It can be nearly instantaneous death to a high RPM motor to have any debris larger than the oil film go through the motor.

I have taken apart enough racing motors to tell you that there is always a fair amount metal debris, identified, and unidentified debris in the bottom of the oil pan in racing motors. Even if you don't have a cam, lifter, or valve train failure. And if you do the metal debris goes up substantially.

Keep in mind back in the day straight 40 wt oil was the standard oil for NHRA Super stock and Pro stock cars. Having an oil filter go into bypass mode would not be unusual given how thick the oil was.

As for plugging the oil filter bypass on SBC and BBC. I done it on every Chevy Motor on my own cars since I was shown this in the around 1980 by a local Circle Track engine builder. The rod and main bearing have always come out looking very nice. Except for one street/strip car motor. Running below freezing temperatures with straight 40 wt was not a good idea. That motor only lasted 8 months.
 
Well, this all has merit in theory, but one collapsed media allowing the entire flow through the filter "unfiltered" can be far more destructive than 10%-X?% flow bypassing the media. That is the bypass valve's primary task ..to protect the media.


This sorta belongs here ..but let's see if we can get some more participation in Auto-Gen ...hmm..make that Racing engines.
 
No problem - keeping high rpm out of the mix until water temp is +140F - and using an suitably reinforced non-bypassing filter.

The PF35L is perfect - screen reinforced media with good flow and excellent filtering.

IMO and my experience.

MAT
 
I know about Lingenfelter.

If you're gonna race it short miles and tear it down regularly, fine.

But not in a street engine. Race mods and street duty sometimes don't mix.
 
Lingenfelter was recommending this for street-driven vehicles. It was the way he prepared all of his Lingenfelter Corvettes. He just educated the new owners as to the need for gentle cold temp driving, using good filters, and changing them often.

I admit, this isn't for everybody, but for someone like myself who is very attentive to his vehicles it's probably not too risky.

The upside is that my bearings will likely never see any large particles of anything, ever. I'll let you know in 200,000 miles, which at my current annual rate will take about another 200 years
cool.gif
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I know who he is, but where is the logic behind it? If the bypass is not needed, then it won't ever be used anyway. Even the smartest minds don't know everything, especially when it comes to cars.

Look at how many cam manufacturers still recommend against synthetic oil, and suggest some run-of-the-mill dino saying it's best.

-T
 
Are you talking about the bypass valve on the factory spin on filter adapter or the one in most spin on filters?
All my race BBC's have a threaded dowel or after market adapter with the factory bypass valve gone. I was thinking it may be good to block the bypass valve in my System one 1 qt filter. I have the 30 micron SS element. The spring controlled ball valve looks like it would open pretty easy.
 
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