waaahooo!!!! I bought an 87crx today!

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I put a $100 deposit on it and I pick it up some time early next week.

$250 with a slipping clutch (but still very drivable). It's the carbed version, but such is life. The chassis is pretty solid and ready for a build into a CSP car.


Now I'll actually be able to look at the car and figure out how stuff works rather than asking stupid questions.
 
Sweet! It'll be a good CSP machine. Pour some SeaFoam down the carb (slowly!), change the oil and do an Auto-RX treatment and rinse. Change the plugs out with stock NGK, and replace the O2 sensor above the cat. That should solve about 80% of any problems you are going to have.

Next is the chassis.....muhwahahaha!

-JamesW
STS Suzuki Swift GTi
 
quote:

Originally posted by Solo2driver:
Sweet! It'll be a good CSP machine. Pour some SeaFoam down the carb (slowly!), change the oil and do an Auto-RX treatment and rinse. Change the plugs out with stock NGK, and replace the O2 sensor above the cat. That should solve about 80% of any problems you are going to have.

Next is the chassis.....muhwahahaha!

-JamesW
STS Suzuki Swift GTi


Yup, I was planning on doing all that. Maybe not the seafoam, but fuel power instead. Planning on changing the oil at my friends house up there so the first few hundred miles of my trip will be autoRX'ed (thank God for the discount "forcing" me to buy extra bottles).


What clutch do you recommend for such a rediculusly powerful machine?

(PS, Money might be tight this year, so I may experiment with STS2 instead of the race tire thing)


Oh **** , don't I have to keep the stock clutch in that class? Hmm, choices.
 
Go with any auto parts store type clutch....I particularly enjoy the "Luk" clutch kit with lifetime warrany from Pep Boys, about $100 for everything involved with such a job. While your're at it, and if you have the funds, go to NAPA auto parts and get a set (or select) engine mounts (Balchamp brand)....very important for keeping your axles in their designated togetherness.

-JamesW
 
I've heard bad things about those clutches. Then again, those cars has a bit more than 72 hp.


For what reasons do you like them besides the warrenty?
 
I have also heard bad things about LUK clutches, but after having sets in my GS '86 CRX Si and STS '86 Civic Si, I would happily put another one in. I think that they may be easily damaged when putting the transmission back in, but that could be said about any clutch kit when improperly handled.

You could always go with the OEM Honda clutch, but in my opinion doubling or tripling the cost doesn't necessarily get you double or triple the clutch. Since Street Prepared allows for nearly any style clutch and flywheel, I would use whichever one you get the best deal on...stock, Clutchmasters, whatever is in your budget, but don't spend money just to spend it...you'll need that for the chassis. Have the flywheel machined down to reduce weight as well, usually only runs about $70 at most shops--if they charge more, walk away.

On the 84-87 cars, I would not hesitate to do the clutch job myself. It takes time with hand tools, but most places charge several hundred dollars to have it done, and its not that difficult at all! It's easier to do the mounts and axles at the same time, if you are so inclined. I know that this is a budget project, but you will quickly find that if the car is not in proper running shape, you are going to end up with a fast racecar with cool shocks and springs and seat and whatever, that just sits in the driveway because you broke the axles your first time out, and don't have money to fix it. Develop an HONEST budget first before you build, and do necessary maintenence first.

-JamesW
Needs to use his own advice :)
 
I would try to find and Altrom distributor in your area (www.altrom.com). They generally supply NKK clutches for hondas - I believe that the same company that makes these also produces the OEM clutches for honda. The prices at Altrom are usually similar to discount parts store prices (but for premium products!).

Spraiski
 
quote:

Originally posted by Solo2driver:
On the 84-87 cars, I would not hesitate to do the clutch job myself. It takes time with hand tools, but most places charge several hundred dollars to have it done, and its not that difficult at all! It's easier to do the mounts and axles at the same time, if you are so inclined. I know that this is a budget project, but you will quickly find that if the car is not in proper running shape, you are going to end up with a fast racecar with cool shocks and springs and seat and whatever, that just sits in the driveway because you broke the axles your first time out, and don't have money to fix it. Develop an HONEST budget first before you build, and do necessary maintenence first.

-JamesW
Needs to use his own advice :)


The plan is to do it like that. I have no choice but to spend my money smartly and wisely. Plus, my patience and level of discipline is pretty good. After all, I did have enough of a head on my shoulders to decide to change to a different car and then wait to find a good one (albeit, the 2 weeks was about 2-4 months less than I was expecting).

I might just end up doing stock class this year, and just stock pile parts. However, I don't wish to do this.


Not going to grind down the flywheel. I'm just going to do a resurface and call it a day. That's $70 that could be spend elsewhere.
 
Wholesale resurface- $35 (at least that's what machine shops used to charge us when I worked in automotive retail)....or you could have it shaved down to ~11lbs for $70 if you ask around politely. Its one of those things that though it is a little bit more money now, it sets a good base for a performance platform. I would consider it added to your "maintenance" list rather than performance.

Of course, I was an extremely broke college student not too long ago myself, and every dollar counts :) It's you're call.

I have a race Sunday in the Suzuki, we are treating it as testing for next year. Wish us luck!

-JamesW
 
Hmm, 11lbs for $70 sounds better than 9 lbs for $350.


That's on my unnecissary list, though. I gotta get the maintenance stuff first. A few questions though.


First, would you recommend replacing the half shafts even if the boot isn't torn (one is, one isn't)? And now to begin setup questions... I've been noticing that that some of the nats CSP cars are using 27.5mm/400in/lb setup. What would you recommend for more asphault use? Also, I am not going to buy springs with the GC kit. To do this I need to know a good freelength for a spring to use. Is a 7" free length good? Should I go shorter/taller?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Solo2driver:
Although, you will be street-driving this car, so choose a setup that you can at least get you to a race and back without killing your back :)

That's what 175/70/13's are for; a luxurious ride! I've used this technique on another car, and it worked phenominally well.

Doing the t-belt on the car today and tomorrow. Hopefully it will be ready to register and drive by tomorrow.


Any clue yet on what's wrong with the swift boat yet?
 
Timing belt and tensioner. $630.91 at Goodyear service center. Engine had to be pulled out to replace it (its a tight fit) as well as the water pump. They did throw in an Optima dry-cell battery for 50% off, as the old one died and would not ressurrect after my attempts to get it started.

I hope it holds together for another season of racing, and my annual 59K mile commute!

-jamesw
 
The main reason that the Nats drivers were running that combination is that the "old" courses at Forbes Field in KS is extremely worn with lots of holes, jumps (yes, jumps!), and broken edges. You HAD to run a softer setup, or the car would get airborne mid-turn and you'd go flying off course. Now that the SCCA has announced for 2005+ that the existing concrete will be sealed with asphalt OR they will move to a new site, possibly next door at Heartland Park (raceway).
All other National Tours and ProSolos will be competing on mostly smooth surfaces (*anything* is better than Forbes), so stiffer is better when using the CSP setup. Although, you will be street-driving this car, so choose a setup that you can at least get you to a race and back without killing your back :)

-JamesW
Suzuki dead after race, resting in repair shop, will not start :-(
 
sweet ***** ! Sounds like the motor is a non interference, at least. I just checked out the t-belt on my crx and saw that it was covered with hairline cracks. Eeek. Ordered the parts and got all the parts disassembled.


Looking at the car I think that CSP is a little too ambitious (I need to finish maintaining the car...), so I might just stick with HS for at least a half a season. Maybe less if birthday and Christmas are nice to me.

Any suggestion for an HS CRX setup (besides shocks and drive it)? I would probably end up going the 215 kumho's rather than the 225 hoosiers.

[ November 23, 2004, 02:34 AM: Message edited by: Thomas Pyrek ]
 
Shocks and drive it! Don't be afraid to experiment with tire pressures, especially in the rear (like up to 50psi).

HS 1gen CRX-
Exhaust
Ignition coil

stainless steel brake lines

New upper strut mounts/bushings
New front lower control arm bushings
New tie-rod ends
Stock front sway bar and bushings
Adjustable struts
Seize rear twist beam (dirt and rust!)
Align and corner-balance (stock is adjustable Front)

84 Honda Accord 13x5" alloys (8lbs each)
235/45-13 Kumho V700 tires

Grant steering wheel, 4-pt harness
Energy or Prothane shifter bushings (black, like stock)...saves your syncros, who cares if its illegal!


All that on top of regular maintenance and replacement items. After owning my 1gen CRX/3gen Civics, those suspension pieces NEED to be replaced on older cars, no questions asked, and are cheaply available at most auto parts stores.
 
Why the steering wheel (this already has an aftermarket cheapie)? Is it within the stock allowance?


Thanks for reminding me about the harness. I have one in my 300zx that I was going to pull out and put in the car, but wasn't sure about a mounting location for the shoulders. Do you have a picture or a good verbal description?

How would I adjust the torsion bars for height adjustment?

Actually, that's a pretty good base for the CSP I was intending to run this year. The only difference were going to be the springs/torsion bars and wheels. And those tires will fit nicely onto the 9" wide wheels when I get them.


I just had the dumbest timing belt experience so not dealing with the suspension as much sounds good.
 
Also, I see that Kumho recommends shaving for dry autocross use. However, I've heard that on a light car with a single driver this isn't really necessary? Is this true or should I fork out the $60 for shaved?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek:
Also, I see that Kumho recommends shaving for dry autocross use. However, I've heard that on a light car with a single driver this isn't really necessary? Is this true or should I fork out the $60 for shaved?

Seems like you could try one autocross and if there is evidence of too much rubber, get them shaved after that.

It would be nice to wear the rubber off the tire$ yourself instead of having it swept up off the tire shop floor
grin.gif
 
You can't do that. That can damage the tire shaving machines so no one around here does it. It's a now or never kind of thing.


It kinda sounds like you've never seen a ecsta v700 chunk itself to death. Unfortunantly those pictures are on my computer at school.
 
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