Redline 0w-40 Racing Oil question...

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For my next trip to the strip i was thinking of using redline 0w-40 race oil. Now i know from the research ive done its obviously a race oil and not for street use but what exactly does that mean, just not good for extended use, and what does 'extended use' consist of? more than 500 miles, 1000miles? I just want to use it like this: put it in, drive to irwindale (40 min drive) race that night with it, drive it home, change it the next day. Will i be safe?
 
I'm sure this oil can handle those conditions. I bet an oil analysis would show you this oil could go 5k. Royal Purple's race oils can handle more than 5k with ease for instance.
 
What all has been done to the car? 30wt's are more than sufficient for most newer honda engines.

--Matt
 
its a stock bore (81mm) 1.8 liter dohc vtec motor. Type R pistons with a GS-R head put the compression somewhere in the mid 11:1 range. Its been dynoed at 197hp and 146 ft/lb torque. I havent taken it to the strip yet but i will soon. I want to extract every bit of power i can from it. And i hear racing oil is good for that last little edge.
 
Redline's race oils don't have the detergents necessary for street driving. As I understand it........the more detergents present in the oil.......the lower the lubricity. I think that redline formulates their race oil, for the lowest friction coefficient possible, and thus...skips the detergents.
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quote:

Originally posted by xxxDOHC VTECxxx:
i just cant bring myself to use mobil 1 with all the bad stuff ive heard about it....

Can you tell us some of the bad stuff? M1 is one of the best over the counter synthetics available. You really shouldn't need more than a 30wt oil in that engine, especially considering the tight clearances it runs on. M1R would probably be perfect under all circumstances, anything heavier could be robbing you of HP.

--Matt
 
alot of people on honda-tech complain about mobil 1. Not necessrily that version of it, but they complain they burn too much oil when they use it.
 
Well, XL7500 is a GRPIII synthetic. M1 is all PAO. Any flavor of M1 would be better than what you've got in there. Does your engine consume a significant amount of oil? If you want to stick with Amsoil, their 0/5/10w30's are probably good for you. Or if you want something really tough, their 5w30HDD oil is really good.

But M1R is kind of designed for your purpose.

--Matt
 
No idea. I don't think it will be at many stores. It might be one of those hard to find oils. I'd just order it from www.avlube.com. Geroge Morrison knows all about the oil.
 
any links to a good FAQ where i can learn the difference between what a group III and a PAO is? sorry to be so lame, but im trying!
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and one more thing, by reccomending the M1R to me and it being a "racing" oil, are you telling me its ok for daily driving?
 
Such a stud oil I thought I'd post the pic again for those that ain't seen it
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xxxDOHC VTECxxx ,

Don't be shy about asking questions .

One man's race oil is another mans junk .
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I will not let too much info out here for a few reasons but..... as the engine gets larger IE cubic inch and the resultant larger crank pin , heavier rod , heavier piston usually depics larger clearances . Then and only then do you see these 40wt oils ran unless the engine is built for extremely high RPM and is a smaller engine .

It's funny when I hear a builder quoted as saying " I use this oil up to X HP , above that I use this oil "
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Where you live there are a number of oils to take you back and forth from the track , to and from work ect w/o draining for a pretty long period .

If you want to use Redline , use the 5w-30 in that motor . Call Dave and he will say yep to the 5w-30 too
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There is a relative large number of oils that would work for you and the Mobil , Redline , 76 Synthetic , Valvoline 5w-30 Race and the new Lucas Xw-30wt are but a few .
 
Thanks for the info. just a few more questions. Does the M1 Racing oil contain detergents that make it ok for daily driving? If not, whats the reccomended amount of time/mileage i would be able to drive on it and lastly, would switching to a 0 weight hurt anything on cold startups? Thanks for all the help guys, i really do appreciate it.
 
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