Completely Hypothetical Question: What oil would you use in this engine and why?

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It would be a lubricant that shears easily for low internal friction but retains solid fluid dynamics under EP and mixed phases, the base oil is the additive pack and the add pack is the base oil. There are no organo- metals in the lubricant. The primary ingredients are high oleic base oils, VI is 220 +, flash 600+. For this engine vis would be measured at 11 cSt @ 100c, 50 cSt @ 40c. HTHS 4.0


It would be nice if you could run this veggie oil stuff longer than 3,000 miles. It sounds like really nice stuff.

[ October 21, 2004, 02:15 AM: Message edited by: dustyjoe1 ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mickey_M:
I think you'll find that the polymerization problem has been licked by a combination of
relatively low cost techniques, including genetic modifications to the seeds.


I ain't putting no genetically modified oils in my car. That's playing God. Also you don't know if it will grow a third headlight or sumpin'

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As for the original question, I would think that for that price you get the engine builder's cell phone number. Call him up and ask him what the internal clearances are, what kind of operating temps to expect, and what his recommendation is on the oil. Take that all into consideration.

I've worked on friends' race cars who bought big dollar engines from big tiem engine builders and you better believe they all come with a recommendation for oil. It was usually 20w50 Valvoline, though I have since spoken with a couple of my buddies and the trend is going towards much thinner synthetics. My ex-boss actually paid for dyno time where he did a few pulls with a thicker dino oil, drained it out, refilled with a thinner Mobil one and did a few more pulls. He gained Hp and that was enough for him. Unfortunatley I dont' remember the specific numbers or brands.
 
Why, why, why start with an inherently unstable unsaturated material? Feed the soybeans to cattle and let them turn it into tallow.
 
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