best race oil for $2
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If you have any money invested in that drag vehicle shouldn't the question be what is the best oil for drag cars? In a toy (yes I said toy!) like a race car/bike, Ferrari etc. you are already beyond the cost of something cheap like oil or filters. If you used 5 quarts of $20qt oil that is only $100 per change and you could likely afford a few changes a season if you can afford a drag car. Not trying to be insulting but what is your car/motor worth to you? Is it being rebuilt every season anyways? and if it is why not use the best oil for it anyways? The cost of oil especially in a application like this is the lowest cost you will likely encounter.
Hey Mark, thanks for the link. The csT of the 20W-50, I posted the VOA and UOA on, are most likely different than this late model version. The oil I had was made and purchased over two years ago and represented the last of my stock. Sense that time Kendall was sold a few times and the general feeling is it's not the same Dino oil. I know many racers and everyone jumped ship. Many have large stocks they horded when it became clear what was going on. The new 20W-50 looks, smells and feels way different. Would be interesting to see a VOA from Blackstone on the Kendall. The one you just provided the spec sheet on. I'm surprised the part number is the same. This specification sheet does not show all those critical additives except zinc. Figured they would have been a tad more honest and use a different part number. O well buyer beware. The SUS @ 210 from the VOA test was 94.4. If I'm reading my "grade system" chart right, that would be around csT@100=18.5 and csT@40=220. late model spec sheet has 19 and 174 . I guess than means it is thinner at lower temperatures??? so much for the 20W-50. Now the 70 is way off from my needs csT@40=380 and csT@100=37. I never get my oil hotter than 210F and never colder than 140F. I suspect if I ran the 70, the filter bypass would get one heck of a work out
[ March 12, 2004, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: quick_16 ]
I apologize if you think I was telling you what to do quick_16. By the way I know nothing about racing so you are miles ahead of me as far as this goes. I was just inquiring as to why one would look for a cheap maintenance product for something expensive instead of a good or better product. It seemed kinda like Boeing trying canola oil in the 747 because it was a better deal than Mobil Jet Oil II. Again if I have stepped on toes I am sorry. Like you said it "has the potential to catch some heat"
[ March 13, 2004, 12:33 AM: Message edited by: hk33ka1 ]
[ March 13, 2004, 12:33 AM: Message edited by: hk33ka1 ]
OK no problem. Racing is like running a business. Anything you can do to lower the O&M expense is a good thing. It's never been proven that running a $7/qt oil will make a drag race engine show any less ware that results in a cost savings when rebuilding. The big Benni of a Base 4 and even a ester base oil is for high temperature operation. Drag racing, like I do, only results in oil temperates of 210F max. There are some other benefits of a better oil, but again I have never heard or seen how that results in less/better operating cost or reliability. We never try for extended oil change cycles so scratch that as well. With 1000+hp engine, 25 1/4 mile runs is a great deal of use. Speaking of racing I have one to go to now...quote:
Originally posted by hk33ka1:
I apologize if you think I was telling you what to do quick_16. By the way I know nothing about racing so you are miles ahead of me as far as this goes. I was just inquiring as to why one would look for a cheap maintenance product for something expensive instead of a good or better product. It seemed kinda like Boeing trying canola oil in the 747 because it was a better deal than Mobil Jet Oil II. Again if I have stepped on toes I am sorry. Like you said it "has the potential to catch some heat"
Here mylocal track,check it out...
web page
Paul S
I don't think these $2-3.00 a quart race oils are any better than regular motor oil used in a passenger car.Now if say you were running N20 all the time or alcohol,there might be a benefit to a oil for that use,but in a regular 9-12 second bracket or super series car (I run NHRA super street)I think regular oil is just fine.The 10w40 Quaker State I get at Wally Mart has performed very well in my 383 and 440 drag engines.
ok, some poeple need to realize something...
Not all of us drag race. Not all of us have wildly modified engines. Not all of us spend $4 a gallon on fuel. Not all of us find it worthwhile to spend more than 2 or 3 bucks on a quart of oil because we simply don't need that kind of product.
I spend $25 a weekend racing, $300 or so a year on tires (I love the introduction of Street tire class), $130 a year on memberships (SCCA and some local groups), and race a beater from 1985, that is 10 months (yes, months) younger than I am, that I can aquire a good engine for under $300. Right now my engine is fine, but it is totally not worth my effort to spend a gagillion on motor oils. On the other hand, I don't feel like my time would be put to use very well by abusing the motor and neglecting to use oil that will protect my engine well enough.
Like everything else in America, there is a product that will meet my needs, all I have to do is find it.
When I'm done running my autoRX treatment and get out of school I'll get a UOA of both 20w-50 VR1 and some Delvac 1300.
[ March 14, 2004, 03:48 AM: Message edited by: Thomas Pyrek ]
Not all of us drag race. Not all of us have wildly modified engines. Not all of us spend $4 a gallon on fuel. Not all of us find it worthwhile to spend more than 2 or 3 bucks on a quart of oil because we simply don't need that kind of product.
I spend $25 a weekend racing, $300 or so a year on tires (I love the introduction of Street tire class), $130 a year on memberships (SCCA and some local groups), and race a beater from 1985, that is 10 months (yes, months) younger than I am, that I can aquire a good engine for under $300. Right now my engine is fine, but it is totally not worth my effort to spend a gagillion on motor oils. On the other hand, I don't feel like my time would be put to use very well by abusing the motor and neglecting to use oil that will protect my engine well enough.
Like everything else in America, there is a product that will meet my needs, all I have to do is find it.
When I'm done running my autoRX treatment and get out of school I'll get a UOA of both 20w-50 VR1 and some Delvac 1300.
[ March 14, 2004, 03:48 AM: Message edited by: Thomas Pyrek ]
I have spent recently spent a fair about of money to find an answer. Not all, but most reputable oil manufactures that claim to have a race oil in fact do have a way different additive package. Many of the additives for long use are oppose the ones needed for high HP racing. Zinc is a big one needed for racing same with Moly. I wish you where right on this, but have been been converted and just want to share my understanding. The key for me on all this can bee seen as an optimization problem. What is the lowest cost oil that provides the best service for my operation. When I have that answer, I'll post it here. For now Vavoline VR-1 20W-50 will have to do. Tip the cards >>>> So far I'm leaning toward Schaeffers oil. There straight weight micron moly oil seems to be looking very good... PS I run Nitrous Oxide on a timer just at quick-16 events... (I also bracket race on HP) that works out to be (actual time racing) about 10% of the time under full power on NO.
[ March 14, 2004, 10:35 AM: Message edited by: quick_16 ]
Both Quaker State and Pennzoil have a good amount of moly in their oils.The zinc has been cut back due to the catalytic converters being poisioned by it.Whether that's true or not is the governments deal.
As I stated earlier,if you use alky or nitrous (which you do) then a special oil may be beneficial to what you run.For what I run,off the shelf oil works for me,and has for the last 20 years.Our engines usually go between 5-7 race seasons before they are torn apart,so I'm sticking to what works for us.I've also seen Hemi super stockers use the same oil as I use and run just fine with it.
And Tom,I am one of the ones that use $4.00/gal race fuel.My Sunoco 100 octane costs that much,I'm glad you don't have to spend that kind of money to have fun racing,but that's racing!!
As I stated earlier,if you use alky or nitrous (which you do) then a special oil may be beneficial to what you run.For what I run,off the shelf oil works for me,and has for the last 20 years.Our engines usually go between 5-7 race seasons before they are torn apart,so I'm sticking to what works for us.I've also seen Hemi super stockers use the same oil as I use and run just fine with it.
And Tom,I am one of the ones that use $4.00/gal race fuel.My Sunoco 100 octane costs that much,I'm glad you don't have to spend that kind of money to have fun racing,but that's racing!!
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