Solid lifter cams...

[Calvin]

Just abit curious what some of you guys might think about this...In many classes of racing roller tappets are not allowed or are otherwise not desirable...so with that leaving flat tappets left...typical cast iron cams with hardenable iron solid lifters with the typical valve springs ranging from say 110 to 140 lbs on the seat to 260 to say 400 lbs open type pressures.... on a normal domestic V8 with anywhere from a 1.5 to 1.75 Rocker ratio.

Do you guys think as far as oils go ... would a "tackier" oil that is more likely to stay on a spinning lobe/lifter would help with longevity more or would a "slipperier" oil be better for longevity ?...

What really would be the best additive package for longevity of componuts with no thought to CAFE standards at all ?

[ March 09, 2004, 12:38 AM: Message edited by: Calvin ]

 

[Motorbike]

Use the new Gun Drilled flat tappet solid lifters from Crower and others for a direct oil feed to the lobe .

These lazor drilled lifters really help with little loss of oil pressure .

Also there are two types of flat tappet solid lifters . The edge orifice and the piddle valve type . The edge orifice restricts oil to the top end .


Use the piddle valve for long term reliability of the valve springs because engines need oil up top to cool the valve springs if they get some street service and are not in a all out race engine .

No comment on engine oil at this time but I might give some general advice and guidelines later depending ...................

[ March 09, 2004, 08:27 AM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]

 

[Calvin]

Isky offers those lifters as well...they call them Special Oiling lifters.I know one engine builder in the Central Valley of Calif who if the cust wants a solid lifter cam for a SBC or BBC he will only use the direct lube type lifters...if you wont spring for them he wont build the engine...he belives in them that much.... I know Crower used to ( may still ) offer special gun drilled cam cores with holes in the lobes and a groved cam journal to allow oil into the cam core and out the hole on each lobe....sort of like the old Datsun L-16 type engines.... These direct lube/special oiling lifters seem to be the best of all worlds type thing for flat tappets.... But as lobes keep getting more aggressive ... the demands on the lubrication get more critical also.... Thus far I have onlt heard of one person loseing a cam with these lifters.... And several people who like them.

[ March 09, 2004, 03:31 PM: Message edited by: Calvin ]

 

[quick_16]

Calvin, addressing your question above, you have to take a look at this! web page

 

[AV8R]

Most of the V8s like 20W-50 racing oils fine, if you have sump capacity and cooling to keep oil temps around 220 or less. Synthetics don't seem to show any difference in wear, and actually don't show any more hp on the dyno than mineral oils, contradicting their manufacturers claims in most cases. The lifters with EDM holes are good in racing engines, especially with dry sumps, but not usually needed in street engines.

 

[Steve S]

You want to shop for an oil with the highest antiwear "additive" numbers as the cam lifter rockers and the valve tips are protected by the additives . Don't cut down the oil going to the top end.

[ March 11, 2004, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: Steve S ]

 

[Jimbo]

Agreed. Go with a high-ZDDP oil, like a 15W-40.

 

[Chris 2421]

Crane Cams makes an EXCELLENT break in lube that comes in a bottle.Smells terrible,but is loaded with zinc.

 

[Calvin]

I agree with the limiting the oil to the top end.I just cant really see the use in that... I have never used an edge orificing type of solid lifter ... just the piddle valve type.... The PV type are in my engine as we speak.

I have used the Crane lube before....Seems to work.

I am actually useing a 15W-40 oil in my engine now with so far as I cant tell great results.. I have never done a UOA with that engine..I noticed this 15W-40 has quite a strong smell to it also.... much more than the typical PCMO 's I've used.

As far as the direct lube type lifters on the street at least with the amount of ideling and low speed use a street car has it would seem like they would be helpfull... At least in theory ??

 

[KW]

I agree that one of the 15W40 heavy duty motor oils is the way to go.

On a side note, I have never had a problem with a solid tappet cam as long as I didn't run super high spring pressure. In the past I used to restrict the oil to the top end to help fight windage on 7000 rpm 327's. Now after a few years of working with air/oil cooled bikes I discontinued this practice.