I asked this question before in gas car and truck oil

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but I'm gonna ask it here again.

What is a good oil to use for autocross purposes?

The normal board suggested delvac 1300 for my use. That seemed to make sense. In the past I have used dino VR1 20w-50, but recently the price around me has gone up and I plan on using the delvac in my other vehicles, so it makes it easy just to buy and stock the one type of summer oi.

engine is a stock Nissan VG30e
 
If your going to be auto crossing, I would recommend Redline. It has good protection for high temps, and you will be running elevated oil tempatures, also auto crossing can cause problems depending on what type of transmission you will be running.
 
The oil doesn't get that hot. 220 max. The region that I run in is quite large so there is always at least 7 minutes between runs, usually 15. Redline is overkill for my budget. Most I will want to spend on the oil is $2.50, but even that I don't like doing. I've already been autocrossing for 4 years, so I've already go the redline in the tranny and diff, as that is a given.
 
Hey Tom, Wish I was qualified to answer your question. Suggest you buy a drag race engine and drag race car. I know just a little more than ZERO in that area, and would be able to help ya. lol Anyway, thanks for adding to the flavor of the new race topic area.
I'm surprised the experts on this BB don't come to our help us more. I listened to Speed Talk with Terry Dyson and he talked a great deal about racing and this very BB. Maybe they lack of Bob lately may have contributed to the lack of it sense I got on... just a wild guess????? Anyway as it turns out, Terry
bowdown.gif
put in a good word with Bob and shazam we have an race area.
 
I'm sure this section will get busier once more people know it's here, plus once more racing experts join our board too.
 
quote:

Originally posted by quick_16:
Suggest you buy a drag race engine and drag race car. I know just a little more than ZERO in that area, and would be able to help ya.

As Christian Fittipaldi once said, "Accelerating in a straight line is like sleeping."

Depending on what kind of job (or if I get a job) this summer, I'm planning on running an autoRX treatment as my motor does have around 180,000 miles on it (I'm not sure, the odometer went kaputt at 130,000 and I'm judging the rest by tire wear). After that I'll get an analysis of Delvac and then later some left over 20w-50 VR1 I have.

The oil doesn't get hot, but because of the amount of dirt in the motor it gets dirty quickly. I usually get loud lifter tick after 5 or so events; another reason why I don't want to spend $$ on the redline oils. yes, I have run expensive synthetics like Royal Purple in the past and pretty much that was the same situation (although I did fewer events, typically only 12-15 in those seasons, now I'm up to 25ish).

Frankly, I'm so glad that there is a section like this for us automotive abusers. I've already tried my part and given a small amount of info regarding Honda oil filters here for my beater.

[ March 08, 2004, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: Thomas Pyrek ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek: As Christian Fittipaldi once said, "Accelerating in a straight line is like sleeping."

My junk pulls 3.5g's and hits 182 at the end of 1320 feet. On the launch, it will out accelerate anything on the street. In fact anyone I have strapped in a for a little test pass always lifts about 200 to 300 feet out has thes painted on looking grin when the return. lol
I was in Atlanta last week and went on the Andretti race go-cart track. An indoor deal. I went at it as hard as I could for 8 laps. I was done at the end. Head was spinning from the work out. I'm sure most of that was from being to aggressive in the turns and not letting the cart work for me. No training just have at it. My 1st time. Anyway I went back and drank some more beer and watched. Fumes got kind of bad and did not help my head.

FYI With ET drag racing it's a real numbers game. For example I lost by .0002 sec in the 2nd round last event.

here's a link to my local track:
pat.gif

my local track

I run 2 classes SP and the quick-16

Paul S

[ March 08, 2004, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: quick_16 ]
 
A good friend of mine..his nephew just reciently made the switch from sprint cars to drag racing...He kinda said the same thing...how hard can it be? just stab and steer.... well he's piloting the same type of stuff that Quick_16 is now...632 CID BBC RED....Said it scared the **** out of him first time he really got after it... scared him even more when he really shook the tires hard the first time.... He said he really underestimated drag racing...but doesnt anymore!

Personally I have to think both Sprint cars and dragsters would be scary till ya got used to them..and even then ya have to respect them..stuff can happen real quick.
 
Imagine driving a car that powerful and having to steer too.

I'm actually starting to make my way over to shifter karts. Something about the $5k for a vehicle with a 10:1 weight to hp ratio and a chassis capable of pulling some awesome lateral g's makes me giggle. Last year I got to take a few runs in the person's kart who would later that year win his class at the Solo II nationals, now that was an experience. I've spoken with him some and will probably bum a ride with him for a few events this year to become more familiar with a kart before I buy my own.

I've heard of that Atlanta place up here in Chicago. Recently a place has opened up here similar to that. Longest I've been able to do is an hour straight with no after effects the next day.


But I'll state my opinoin, in drag racing you have to have a fast car to make in interesting (except for bracket). You don't have to have a fast car to make solo interesting. I just love the looks of the people who drive fast cars and are "fast" drivers who I beat with a stock automatic SOHC saturn (and yes, I have proof).

Now I'll state a fact: this "argument" is like arguing that brown houses are cooler than green houses. No side is going to win as you can't change another person's opinion. BTW, yes, I've dragged before. No, it's not any fun for me.
 
I still have fun drag racing my 95 Firebird Formula every few weeks (from April to November) even though it's best ET is only 13.68 at 100.4. I do miss some of my old cars though, like my 98 Formula which went 12.68 at 110.6, or the supercharged 87 Mustang I had which ran 12.16 at 112.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek:
but I'm gonna ask it here again.

What is a good oil to use for autocross purposes?

The normal board suggested delvac 1300 for my use. That seemed to make sense. In the past I have used dino VR1 20w-50, but recently the price around me has gone up and I plan on using the delvac in my other vehicles, so it makes it easy just to buy and stock the one type of summer oi.

engine is a stock Nissan VG30e


I must have missed this topic elsewhere. I don't know why you'd want that heavy oil in that engine. Most of an auto-x course is done with low oil temps. I'd think one of the 0W-30 oils like German Castrol or Mobil M1R, or other 5W or 10W-30 synthetics would work better.

I use 5W-30 M1 in a Mustang I've autocrossed a lot...
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I still have fun drag racing my 95 Firebird Formula every few weeks (from April to November) even though it's best ET is only 13.68 at 100.4. I do miss some of my old cars though, like my 98 Formula which went 12.68 at 110.6, or the supercharged 87 Mustang I had which ran 12.16 at 112.

Patmann, Still got the Blown Stang? Man of all the junk I've owned, that was the most fun ever. The 90 stang I had got me hooked (Really BAD) again. Did this racing in the 70's and dropped it, till I got that stang. Bolted on the GT-40 stuff, B-303 cam, Flow master, Tremac and a Paxton got that 90 stang in the 11' and could still drive to and sometimes even from the track.
lol.gif
I started busting stuff so bad in 92 I got an open trailer and a faster race car and it's all a blurr now kind of looks like this $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
pat.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by jsharp:
I must have missed this topic elsewhere. I don't know why you'd want that heavy oil in that engine. Most of an auto-x course is done with low oil temps. I'd think one of the 0W-30 oils like German Castrol or Mobil M1R, or other 5W or 10W-30 synthetics would work better.

I use 5W-30 M1 in a Mustang I've autocrossed a lot...


I merely used the thicker oil because I didn't want to spend the money on synthetics because my engine dirties the oil very quickly (I get lifter tick). The VR1 was known for being a very tough oil and I was able to double the amount of events I went to before lifter tick began. I used 10w-30 max life (not a starburst oil) over the winter for ice racing. the oil never got low, but now I have a constant lifter tick again. I'm going to run at least one bottle of autoRX through the car, and maybe a second cycle because the car has so many miles on it. Hopefully that will help remove the crap that has dirtied up the lifters. Until then, I will not run an oil that costs more than $2 a quart. I used to get my VR1 for under $2, but now I have to pay $.50 more. The Delvac 1300 seemed like it would suit me well being cheap (1.50 a quart) and a well known oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by quick_16:
Patmann, Still got the Blown Stang? Man of all the junk I've owned, that was the most fun ever. The 90 stang I had got me hooked (Really BAD) again. Did this racing in the 70's and dropped it, till I got that stang. Bolted on the GT-40 stuff, B-303 cam, Flow master, Tremac and a Paxton got that 90 stang in the 11' and could still drive to and sometimes even from the track.
lol.gif
I started busting stuff so bad in 92 I got an open trailer and a faster race car and it's all a blurr now kind of looks like this $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
pat.gif


I ended up selling that Mustang in order to buy the 98 Formula unfortunately. That Mustang rocked, believe it or not the 5.0 engine in it was completely bone stock and untouched! All I did was get a Paxton blower put onto it, and of course I improved other areas such as the exhaust and rear end, plus I lightened the car down to 2965lbs and ran 10x26" slicks. I would launch at 5500rpm and powershift every gear at 5500. Best 60ft was 1.591, and that wasn't even with a real drag suspension, all I did was remove the front and rear sway bars, remove the quad shocks, put in Southside bars and I even had superstiff Motorsport C road racing springs in it! It's best mph was 114.5, so I know that it could've run 11.9s. The day I ran that mph was also a day when my slicks were at the end of their life and I was spinning on the 1-2 shift. Had I been running new slicks that day I would've run 11s for sure. But even still, 12.1s is pretty good for a car I only expected to run 12.9s with when I first got the blower installed. Things just came together so well though!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek:

quote:

Originally posted by jsharp:
I must have missed this topic elsewhere. I don't know why you'd want that heavy oil in that engine. Most of an auto-x course is done with low oil temps. I'd think one of the 0W-30 oils like German Castrol or Mobil M1R, or other 5W or 10W-30 synthetics would work better.

I use 5W-30 M1 in a Mustang I've autocrossed a lot...


I merely used the thicker oil because I didn't want to spend the money on synthetics because my engine dirties the oil very quickly (I get lifter tick). The VR1 was known for being a very tough oil and I was able to double the amount of events I went to before lifter tick began. I used 10w-30 max life (not a starburst oil) over the winter for ice racing. the oil never got low, but now I have a constant lifter tick again. I'm going to run at least one bottle of autoRX through the car, and maybe a second cycle because the car has so many miles on it. Hopefully that will help remove the crap that has dirtied up the lifters. Until then, I will not run an oil that costs more than $2 a quart. I used to get my VR1 for under $2, but now I have to pay $.50 more. The Delvac 1300 seemed like it would suit me well being cheap (1.50 a quart) and a well known oil.


OK. I didn't know your price point. When I was running my Mustang it seemed like I spent so much on tires that any oil costs, even if I had changed it once a month, would have been lost in the noise...
 
I don't have the funds to justify spending $1600 a year on some Hoosiers. Even more so when I can spend $300 on some Falken Azenis and run in street tire class, have more (in quantity and quality) competition and not have to make two tire changes.

It looks like I've made enough money with my parts car that I will do at least two UOA's after I've done my AutoRX treatment(s); one with dino delvac, and one with dino VR1 20w-50 that I have left over.
 
I don't know, I think all oil is cheap. Whats $7qt? Might save you in the long run. I'd use M1/Amsoil 10w-30 if you want the best bang for your buck.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Lumberg:
How do you know the lifter tick is from dirty oil and not oil whose viscosity has broken down?

I now realize that the oil I was using at the time was breaking down and going out of viscosity. Recently, using another oil it gummed up or do something so the lifter ticking was always there. When I added clean oil it still ticked. After an autoRX treatment the clicking ceased.

quote:

Originally posted by buster:
I don't know, I think all oil is cheap. Whats $7qt? Might save you in the long run. I'd use M1/Amsoil 10w-30 if you want the best bang for your buck.

Q. What's $7 a quart if I don't have to spend it?
A. Over $5 too much a quart.

The motor in question is a bone stock motor that is a non turbo. It does dirty the oil up and apperantly will shear it too. Currently I'm using Delvac 1300 and have had absolutely no problems with it compared to the other oils I have used.

[ May 28, 2004, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: Thomas Pyrek ]
 
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