Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters

[burntkat]

Thanks for the info, Gary- I have considered the setup you indicated, but I wish to minimize the breaking of the hardlines in this application. Also, since they're going under the truck and above the bellypan skidplate in close proximity to the transmission, I need to have as compact a system as possible.

I'll be using a Motorguard filter setup for bypass and ideally would like to run it as I stated in my last post. Do you see any problems with my not having a bypass valve in the FF filter, and if so can you suggest a filter that will attach to a 3/4-16 mount that has a bypass valve in the filter?

Hmmm- -come to think- I keep seeing folks use magnafine filters on transmissions in series with the pressure line to the cooler. I don't believe they have bypass in them. Perhaps worrying about bypass valve in the FF filter is much ado about nothing? What say you, sir?

 

[burntkat]

hmmm-- I see that the magnefine DOES have a bypass valve......

 

[Tempest]

I really don't see any advantage to running a true by pass filter on a trans. Full flow filters down to 3 microns can be had at very reasonable prices that can easily flow the maybe 3-4 GPM that transmissions generate. Much easier to set up and install as well. And even with a non-bypass mount that uses motor filters, an Eao with bypass valve built in will still filter the ATF very well.

I currently have the Northern Tools setup in my Jeep and all is good with the 10 Micron nominal that it came with. I am going buy the Donaldson 3 Micron filters I mentioned earlier in the near future. And I believe that Schultz is currently running a 3 Micron full flow on his.

 

[burntkat]

what is an "EAO with bypass valve built in"?

 

[Tempest]

Quote:

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what is an "EAO with bypass valve built in"?

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Quote:

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I have a standard remote mount oil filter head that does not have built-in bypass. This is left over from a previous project.

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If your base does not have a built in by-pass valve, then having a by-bass valve built into the filter is good in case the filter gets clogged. Most of the Eao full flow filters from Amsoil have a by-pass valve built into the filter.

 

[burntkat]

ah. I see. The Amsoil filters.
Yeah.. I'm never gonna use them. When they start letting other folks test their gear without ANY ties to Amsoil, INC, then we'll think about it.

Cold day in #@$%! and all of that, it would seem....

 

[Tempest]

??
Do you know of other filter manufactures that have published outside/independent filter testing data?

FWIW, Eao's are mostly made by WIX with Donaldson media. And member George CLS (not affiliated with Amsoil) did a particle count or two which showed very good results from the Eao. Much better than the OEM filter he was using previous. I use these on my engines and these are definitely what I would be using if my tranny mount used engine filters.

But it is up to you.

Just go with Northern tool full flow setup and you will be good.

 

[burntkat]

yep, it's up to me. (Sorry, but I'm a bit apprehensive when EVERY hit I see on Amsoil and their products is another vendor trying to sell me overpriced snakeoil).

It may be good stuff. It may even be #@$%! good stuff. But I think when we get to brass tacks, anything that equals a Mobil1 or Castrol is plenty good enough for what we're using. We are not, after all, flying rotary wing aircraft or making moon shots here.

My UOAs have always come back stellar with Mobil1 or Castrol (well, except for my last vehicle-- but that's only becuase I wasn't doing UOA's on it as it was leaking/burning oil at such a rate as to make a UOA a waste of time/money. When I finish the diesel repower I'll be starting up the UOA cycle again)

I don't mean to take anything away from Amsoil products or to offend their vendors. I just think that for what we're doing a good quality "conventional synthetic" is excellent, and to get to the point of how much better Amsoil is in said application is splitting a fine hair, indeed. Not worth the premium expense. IMHO.

But then, I run diesel Rotella synthetic in my bikes, and so does everyone who comes to me for advice regarding the oil they should run in theirs, so what do I know?

(UOA's come back shiny on those, as well

)

In short, no harm, no foul, I'm just a cheap bastiche when it comes to machinery (in terms of "give me the cheapest stuff that will do the job *well*"). I am taking your advice on the NT Hydraulic filter, though. I will be using Garry's seperately-plumbed bypass filter as in the example he linked earlier. Gary, if you're still about-- any advice on a fitting to parallel into the cooler lines? Maybe a brass "T" on the tranny, pressure side coming from the cooler "Out" side, and the return plumbed into the cooler "return" side of the lines?
Thanks for the input, folks.

 

[burntkat]

Tempest, I almost forgot-- would you please send or post some pics of your Jeep setup? I need to mount my filter on the framerail and I am curious how you have mounted yours. Ideally mine will be mounted horizontally, allowing filter changes to be a simple matter of unscrewing the filter just enough to let the broken seal drain out into a catch pan and then R&R'ing the filter, so that it's as clean as possible. Also, will allow a better fit under the skidplate. I'll be going the same route on my Jeep- 90 XJ, which has a very very narrow "frame" rail (being a unibody)

 

[Tempest]

I keep forgetting to get some pics and free time is short. Maybe I will have time tonight. I put mine up front, just behind the grill, next to the right head light and air box. It's about the only place I could find. This location was also close to the cooler lines so my runs were short.

I wanted to put it under the car but there really wasn't a place that was not vulnerable to a hit. It is 4x4 and someday may see some real off road use. Changing it is kind of a pain, but I won't have to do it very often.

FWIW, I mostly use the Amsoil ATF, gear lubes and filters as I believe them to be excellent. Since these fluids are in the car for a long time, it is worth it for me to go high end. The motor oils just don't fit into how my cars are driven, and they get changed more often anyway.

 

[burntkat]

seems we think alike. Mine are going to be under a 3/16" thick skidplate that will cover the transmission pan and most of the transfer case- I tend to overbuild things

I'll have to remove the plate (8 bolts) to service the trans anyway, and considering that the deep pan I will be running has a drainplug on the bottom and my filtration will be external, I won't have to drop the pan (normally a right royal PITA on a Blazer) I'll still be ahead of the game in the ease of service arena. Drop the pan, pull the drainbolt. While that's draining, crack the filter from it's base and let it drain. Grab a beer, after drinking it remove and replace the spinon filter, replace the bolt in the pan, replace skidplate, fill the trans to capacity with fluid. Start the truck, let the filters and cooler refill with fluid by way of a trip around the block. Top off the fluid, check for leaks, done.

Honestly I could probably make it easier still with construction of an access plate for the filters and a cutout in the skid for the drain bolt. We'll see.

 

[burntkat]

darn lack of an edit feature, anyway:

this vehicle is built for 4X4 expedition use of the sort that involves watercrossing and the like. If I were to have to replace 2.5 gallons of Amsoil fluid in event of water ingress I'd be mightily displeased. I think that the use of a quality transmission fluid and low-micron filtration will give me all the performance I'll ever need.

 

[Trucku]

if you want to edit. hit reply on your own post. then on top change newreply.php to editpost.php. Your changing just "newreply" to "editpost" and hit enter. Its about in the center of the location address.


Like i did just now.

 

[unDummy]

Dieseltrans kit sure is purdy. But, you can't get the filter for $15, the mount for $50, some fittings, ATF hoses..... for less then the $175 they want for it. Kits just make things easier. If you want a simple bolt in, buy one of the kits.

Filter mounts do NOT need to have a bypass if THE FILTER HAS ONE. All the "ph8a" filters come with an internal bypass. So, I don't care for the 'marketing' of some kits bragging about a bypass.

Using the permacool sandwich + the remote filter mount is an excellent way to splice in full/bypass ATF filtration. Why didn't I think of that? An orifice isn't even needed if you plumb it parallel. Orifice is mandatory only if you return the bypass-cleaned ATF to a pan fitting.
I do like the added insurance of drilling out the perma-cool sandwich for more bypass flow. In a parallel setup, the optional restrictor orifice should prevent excessive ATF flow and protect the bypass filter's media, so that it works efficiently and effectively. Not needed but can be considered.

Since the 30001 filter has an internal bypass, don't worry about anything. You'll never clog it. If it clogs, your tranny is already blown. Since the full flow filter cost $5, just change it every year, every 30k or fluid maintenance interval, or whenever you skip the drive-thru and have some money to burn.

 

[burntkat]

how sure are we that the PH8a filters have an internal bypass? If so, and they are 3/4-16 like my research shows, then I think I just wasted $30 on two of those Northern Tool setups.

No matter- I could use them for filtering diesel fuel, couldn't I?

 

[burntkat]

for that matter, how sure are we the L30001 filter has internal bypass?

 

[burntkat]

Filter PL30001 verified-- has a BPV internal to it:
http://www.pureoil.com/smartlink/?partnum=PL30001

looks like my original solution will work perfectly then.
I thank you folks for the help. Any input on using the hydraulic filters in my diesel filtration scheme?

 

[Gary Allan]

Well, maybe you can switch gears again. There are 3/4-16 fuel filter from WIX.

Part Number: 33281
UPC Number: 765809332812
Principal Application: Fiat/Allis FL-9, FL-14 Dozers, Iveco Engines (10 Micron)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Fuel Filter
Service: Fuel
Media: Paper
Height: 6.605
Outer Diameter Top: 4.262
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
Burst Pressure-PSI: 400
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: 10

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200

You had a few questions for me ..but it appears that undummy pretty much answered them all.

Just keep in mind that you can mount anywhere you want. Don't be governed by the most direct route with your lines. This is a low pressure line typically and can take some extra mileage. You can go to the grill and back ..hop over the rad/under the rad ..along the fire wall ..back down the other frame rail (you get the idea) if it means putting both filters next to each other

Just remember, if you need to drill a hole in your Permacool sandwich(if you go that way) ..start with the SMALLEST drill bit you can find. If you need more flow ..don't go bigger ..just drill another SMALL hole. VERY SMALL is what you really need to remember. Otherwise you'll be drilling it bigger and tapping it to put in a plug. EXTREMELY SMALL.

 

[burntkat]

Gary- if you were to parallel a bypass filter setup into trans lines alone, how would you do it? IOW, say my lines are 5/16"- how would you plumb into those lines?

 

[Gary Allan]

Here's the simplest way to do it if you want to run the bypass filter in parallel to the coolers.

Mount both filters in the same location. Run your full flow in line with the "from trans" cooler line. T the inlet side of the bypass into that line above (trans side) the filter. You then run a hose from the outlet of the bypass filter and T it into any convenient spot on the "to trans" (return) line.

My, more complicated, technique/method is to make the "bridge" of the bypass as short as possible between the two cooler lines by manipulating their length. The difference in differential is probably not more than a few inches of water column in either case. I'm just anal

If I can actually see my jeep this week, I'll take a pic. My daughter is on some marathon quest due to her approaching graduation and work.