Remote mounted Bypass Filters

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Alot of discussion has been generated on what is the best FF oil filter. Prices vary from $3 to $17 depending on the filter. Micron ratings vary also from 20 to 40, give or take. Also most premimum filters have a bypass valve to open in certain conditions, which in turn just flows the dirt back to the oil galley.
Now, one solution is to install a remote mounted bypass filter. Advantage is that most of them will increase the engine oil capacity by at least 1 quart of oil, has no bypass valve, samples only 10% of the oil at a time depending on orfice size, usually does not affect oil pressure. Some can remove condensation depending on the filter media used. You can also extend your oil drains with proper oil analysis. When you sell the vehicle you can remove the unit and install it on your new vehicle. With the price of oil this is an option to consider.
An interesting note on bypass filters. When Slick 50 came out and vehicles with a bypass filter on them had Slick 50 added, the bypass removed the PTFE as it was in very loose suspension, if at all. So at least if the owner got sucked in on that snake oil they didn't have the oil galley plugging and oil sump pick up problems.
Some people do not like bypass oil filters, just as some don't like Synthetic oil. And that is what makes the world great, we can all have an opinion, but remember to respect each others opinion even though you may disagree.
I DO NOT sell or work for anyone. I am retired and fish over 175 days a year, have 3 boats.

[ June 12, 2002, 11:25 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
I only have two beefs with a bypass filter. One is the cost, especially since I have tended to trade my cars rather quickly in the past. Two, is the increased chance of oil leaks.

I also question whether or not it really does make that much difference. I used to believe that a very fine 10 micron filter was going to really extend engine life, but yet I still hear a lot of testimonials where people go 300k using normal OEM filters.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I only have two beefs with a bypass filter. One is the cost, especially since I have tended to trade my cars rather quickly in the past. Two, is the increased chance of oil leaks.

I also question whether or not it really does make that much difference. I used to believe that a very fine 10 micron filter was going to really extend engine life, but yet I still hear a lot of testimonials where people go 300k using normal OEM filters.


Most by-pass systems can be transferred from car to car. Buy a top quality one and take it with you when you trade, heck most new owners won't give a rats a** about better filtration.

The Amsoil Dual Remote is a good one for this. The adapter ring can fit virtually any spin on oil filter. Even the Dogde Cummins and Ford Power Stroke(have to buy a seperate adapeter but the same system works for all applications.)

also note after 300 miles yes the engine is still running, but to what effecience??? I don't believe it takes much to keep an engine running, but it takes alot of work to keep it running in top condition(compression/valve clearance/oil pump/ and all other internal parts!!)
 
How much do one of these oil bypass systems cost and how easy is it to install? I wonder what the cost benefit is to having one of these versus changing your regular filters. I'm assuming you won't have to change your regular filters at all or at most very rarely?
 
quote:

Originally posted by luphy:
How much do one of these oil bypass systems cost and how easy is it to install? I wonder what the cost benefit is to having one of these versus changing your regular filters. I'm assuming you won't have to change your regular filters at all or at most very rarely?

Actually you still have to change your full flow filters.
The by pass systems can be as little as $150 up to over $300.

I have figured in the cost benifit to become even between 50,000-75,000 depending on the system. Though if you transferred it from vehicle to vehicle the benifit would be tremendous. Remove all wear causing particles between 5 and 20 microns.
 
When we talk cost of a bypass filter we must first realize that it will go from car to car or truck. So it can be a one time purchase. Look at all the extras that a person puts on a vehicle and can't reuse when sold and stay with the vehicle.
I like a single bypass leaving the FF in place. That way no special fittings are required on most normal installations. A tee fitting on the oil pressure sender for pressure and a return to the pan, valve cover, oil filler cap, hollow manifold bolt ect. for the return line.
Amsoil does have a single bypass and uses a screw on cannister that looks just like a FF, but much more efficient and will remove moisture. They sell 3 sizes of bypass cannister filters depending on your sump size. If you go from a 6 qt. vehicle to a 12 qt. truck just buy the proper screw on cannister.
Other options are available also. Look at the following:
www.oilguard.com
www.wefilterit.com
 
Vetteman,

One reason I do like the removable media filters like the oilguard is you can take a peake at the filter when you change it. I think that would be interesting,

I forget, which type do you have??

As far as the Amsoil filter your right it's like a regular spin on so you have no idea what is inside there unless you cut it apart(too messy for me, will just have to rely on the oil analysis)
 
msparks,
You are right, I can look at the Oil Guard filter when I change it, but what a mess. You have to remove the outer container and then unscrew the filter by hand. This is the one that I ran the Oil Analysis on. I had it on my 95 PSD. I now am running a 6qt. Gulf Coast Bypass Filter. I wanted the extra capacity, but still a mess to change also. I also have had a Frantz since the 70's.

Your point is well taken, because I still have to get the oil analyized and I have to put up with a mess of oil on top of it. The FF spin-on style bypass is the easiest to change and you can use the proper bypass filter size depending on the vehicle application which is a great feature. Plus they also contain cellulose to remove condensation. Even if a person hates Amsoil oil, but wants a bypass oil filter this one is tops.
 
There is a filter head available from Baldwin or Wix for about $20 that can easily be adapted to accept any of the Amsoil bypass filters. The only thing that is required is a thread adapter (5/8" NF to 1" NF) - any machine shop can make one in minutes from a 1" bolt. Aside from that, one would have to make a restrictor fitting with an orifice size of around 0.040" I admit this is not for everyone, but for those who like to tinker this alternative will save you some money.

[ June 24, 2002, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: GW ]
 
GW,
The bypass filter head, from NAPA is Part#4755 and the Baldwin filter Part#B164 and it is 2 micron. This crosses to a NAPA#1704 28 micron or Napa #1050 10 micron. No mods required to the head to use these filters. Filter base, filter, hose and fittings apprx. $45. For more info and restrictor orfice size call NAPA or the following:
NAPA/Wix---1-800-949-6698
Baldwin----1-800-822-5394

[ June 25, 2002, 01:12 AM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
The problem with most new passenger car engine compartments is that there is no room to place the bypass, especially on the V6 or V8 of today.

Plus, if you can get 100,000-200,000 miles of life with good maintenance why bother with the cost, hassle and potential concern over leaks etc with a bypass? Great for big rigs or diesels in general but passenger cars???

[ June 25, 2002, 07:59 AM: Message edited by: Spector ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Spector:
The problem with most new passenger car engine compartments is that there is no room to place the bypass, especially on the V6 or V8 of today.


I totally disagree with this, if you can find a place to put a by-pass on a VW golf/jetta or a Bug, then there is room to put one on ANY car. If you bring me a car I will find a place to put it!!

Also found plenty of room on a Ford Focus, would even fit with the Dual remote.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Spector:

Plus, if you can get 100,000-200,000 miles of life with good maintenance why bother with the cost, hassle and potential concern over leaks etc with a bypass? Great for big rigs or diesels in general but passenger cars???


The problem with this way of thinking is as bad and the **** 3,000 mile oil change. I'm no tree hugger but if we can reduce the amount of waste oil, improve engine performance, and make cars last even longer, what is wrong with that???

That is the problem with America, hell why take care if it we can just go get another one. (Really burns me about housing, frickin people just build cheap house to last 30-50 years, live in it 10 and move on to something new, then the next family comes(lower income leval) does the same thing, in about 40-50 years, you are looking at a slum!!!!! Go to any major city in America, its all the same.

Go to Europe--A historical house must be at least 500 years old( how many in America can claim that?

Okay I'm off my soap box, I guess I'm just cheap, becuase I like to make my equipment last as long and stay running in top shape for as long as I can!!
 
msparks

Good post! To sit here in Oz and see some guys whining on this forum about a few bucks for a good filter or oil is laughable when everything is already far cheaper than anywhere else! Gas is over $4 a gallon here. You have it so easy. Still at least our high performance cars are better. Checkout the new Pontiac GTO when it's released soon, all Australian design and manufacture except the LS1 engine. Oz made supercharger kits will be available for it on day of release.
 
59,

These filters that you quoted part numbers for, what medium do they use? I would bet that they are pleated paper. The last time I checked into the Baldwin, it was pleated paper that was 50% efficient for 2 micron particles. I do not believe that Baldwin or Wix (Napa) make a depth-media bypass spin-on, but I could be wrong.

I personally would not waste my time installing a bypass filter without depth media.

[ June 25, 2002, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: GW ]
 
Vetteman,

Do ya know where Atkins is located? Have a sister there.
offtopic.gif


Anyway, I used to have a dual remote filter (Amsoil) on my '86 Burb. Leaked all the time
shocked.gif
so I went to a single Amsoil remote (bypass) filter which tapped oil from the pressure sender. Works great, keeps the oil clean.
cool.gif

Never had a leak with the single bypass.
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GW,
Yes they are all pleated paper. I was just trying to show an OTC set-up for simplicity and availability, and good cost.

Molakule,
I agree the single bypass is the best approach. I have read many complaints on the dual set-up and 0 on the single.

Atkins is 12 miles from my house. Large pickle plant there that closed. I am from your part of the country, born in Plain.
 
59,

If you say these filter heads come in a kit with hoses etc., then it would be very simple to install and modify to take an Amsoil bypass element. Fleetguard also make a spin-on depth-type bypass element but unfortunately it is a little more difficult to adapt onto these heads. I do not know of any other spin-on bypass filter except for one I saw on the net that used a roll of paper inside the can. I called them and they could not even give me a rating. I guess they never had it tested. (?)

[ June 25, 2002, 11:31 PM: Message edited by: GW ]
 
Vetteman,

Actually, we are both from St. Louis. She married a local guy.

Have fished in Atkins reservoir and hunted on PettiJean.
 
Originally posted by Spector:

Plus, if you can get 100,000-200,000 miles of life with good maintenance why bother with the cost, hassle and potential concern over leaks etc with a bypass? Great for big rigs or diesels in general but passenger cars???
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reply:
The problem with this way of thinking is as bad and the **** 3,000 mile oil change. I'm no tree hugger but if we can reduce the amount of waste oil, improve engine performance, and make cars last even longer, what is wrong with that???

Well, for me to put on 200,000 miles would take about 12-15 years at my current yearly mileage. At 15 years the engine may be great with a bypass but how am I going to find parts for the rest of the car. My Sears lawnmover has to be replaced at 14 years, engine is great, no parts for the rest of the unit, like bags, cables etc. Yes, a great concept but still argue that not reasonable for the ave driver. It would save oil but not much else IMHO! Parts to maintain the vehicle that is 15 years old are too hard to find. Now, big rigs, those that drive 20-30,000 miles a year, sure go for it.
 
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