Amsoil 15W40 with 8K miles

[Bio-T]

I have a 95 Ford F250 PSD with a 17 quart capacity. This includes a 2qt. Motorcraft full flow filter and a 1-2qt. bypass filter filter installed. I used Shell Rotella T 15W40 for the first 40K, then installed the Amsoil and the bypass filter. I changed the bypass at 44K and had the oil analyized at 48K for a total of 8K on the oil. I added 3 qts. make-up oil at the bypass change, 10W30 HDD Amsoil, (I was out of the 15W40), this was for useage and filter change. These are the results:
Gly--------------Neg
Water------------less than 0.05
Fuel-------------less than 1.0
[email protected]
Soot--------------less than 1.0
Oxd---------------30.0
Nox---------------10.0
TBN---------------12.5
Iron--------------30
CR----------------1
Lead--------------3
Copper------------2
Tin---------------2
Al----------------9
Ni----------------1
Silicon-----------6
Boron-------------28
Sodium------------1
Mg----------------34
Ca----------------4319
Phos--------------1209
Zinc--------------1368
Mo----------------6
All others were 0. This analysis was done by Oil Analyzers. I am using a dual foam air cleaner, diesel fuel additive, no oil additives. At 51K I dropped the oil and changed to Delo 400 after an engine flush with 3 bottles of Auto-Rx. I have 3.5K on the Delo and will sample at 6 months regardless of the mileage. I will change the FF and run another 6 months (1 Year total) and sample again, changing both FF and bypass, with both analysis being done by Dyson Analysis. I will change the oil when analysis dictates. I am not a fan of 3K oil changes when the capacity is 15 qts. and a $10 Motorcraft Fl-1995 full flow, thus the bypass filter.
The engine ran quite a bit quieter with the Amsoil than it does with dino. Power and mileage seem the same with either oil. This engine gets a workout in the hills when pulling my TT. GCVW is around 15K, and alot of 3200 rpm range driving. I limit my EGT to 1150 degrees pre-turbo and cool down to 270 degrees post-turbo for engine shutdown. I have two thermocouples and can switch between them. I also back off at 22 lbs. boost.

 

[Bio-T]

****, that is a good question. I had a higher Ox and Nox than normal for this engine, and the reason is I had not changed the Full Flow in a year. So I decided to clean the engine, use dino and run a year test on it and compare synthetic to dino in my engine. This was the first oil analysis on this engine.

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

Just curious--why did you drop the AMSOIL out when it appears it could have gone much longer without any problem?
I have a friend who went over 60K before putting a bypass filter on his PowerStroke, and the oil was still suitable for continued use.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

You know since you are so close to texarkana, you should just take a quick trip and get some schaeffers oil from Tim and try running schaeffers dino if you want to do some comparisions. But first do a purge to start with a nuetral and balanced test.

 

[Bio-T]

Bob this very well may be my next project. I still have 9 months to go on this test. Then I'll have Dino and Synthetic numbers to look at. It is hard to totally purge this engine as a quart is retained in the High Pressure Oil system when you drain the oil. Two separate pumps on this engine, one in the sump for engine oil and one in the valley for the injectors. I sure hope none of this over engineering ever breaks or I'll have to go back to work to pay for it.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

That's not a problem as what I was reffering to was to take something like auto rx or schaeffers 131 neutra and run it before changing over. That will help neutralize any by product left over from acid formation and such. (tim carries the 131 also there, cost about 3.50 per bottle.) I recommend this purge anytime you switch brands of oils as I have seen people switch and cause oil consumption which after the second oil change would go away.

 

[Bio-T]

Bob,
Because of the 17 qt. capacity with bypass, I used 3 bottles of Auto-Rx for 500 miles before I changed to the Delo 400. I now have 4K on the Delo and the oil level is about 1/8" below full so oil useage is nil so far. I want to run this oil until analysis dictates a change.

 

[GW]

I personally would not trust the reported oxidation with sythetic oil........I have a number of oil samples on a synthetic transmission fluid in an Allison powershift (all on same oil) and they show oxidation all over the map, ranging from 0 to 500% of allowable. When I questioned the lab on this, they told me that they cannot be accurate with synthetic oils.

I called a different lab who uses a more expensive process for measuring oxidation - they told me that they could probably do better with their process but it is still not 100% accurate.

Terry, can you comment on this?

[ June 23, 2002, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: GW ]

 

[Bio-T]

GW,
I did not like the iron at 30ppm. The next test will be with the dino so is analysis on OXY more accurate using this?

 

[Jay]

I love the way you have silicon under control. Do you attribute this to the foam air filter or the bypass filter or both?

 

[Bio-T]

Jay,
This engine sucks an enormous amount of air. I attribute the low silicone on this analysis to the dual foam filter. I recommend to any one to get one. Amsoil is the best source if they make it for your vehicle. Prior to the dual foam I had a K+N, and let's say it took a ride in a silver can to pollute the local land fill.

I don't think the bypass filter had any bearing on the readings. Prior silicone readings were high with the K+N and a bypass.

[ November 16, 2002, 10:09 AM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]

 

[Jay]

Thanks for your answer, 59 Vetteman. I have a dual-stage foam filter made by Comptech/UNI for my Acura RSX. Amsoil doesn't make one for my car. I can't tell how well it's working, though, because my car is new and I'm still getting a lot of silicone leaching from the seals. I can only hope it's working as well as yours.