Need tips to remove stuck oxygen sensor

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I have a 14 yr old/133k oxygen sensor I need to take out. I removed the heat shield. The day before, I sprayed PB blaster on the o2 and tapped it with a hammer. Then the next day, I warmed the car up for a minute to get the exhaust manifold hot without burning my hand. Then used a crow style Oxygen sensor removal socket, but the oxygen sensor won't budge. To give you an idea how stuck it is, I didn't jack the car up. My car was rocking backwards on the force I was pulling that torque wrench. Anything else I could try without breaking the 02 sensor off?
 
Cut off the exhaust pipe from the Oxy Sensor back with a Sawsall?
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Seriously though, you tried all the things I'd do, but rather than a straight pull, I'd try gently tapping on the socket with a metallic hammer to shock/vibrate the theaded fitting. I find this works for tight nuts. If you had a box end wrench you could use instead of the socket, that would be better, since you wouldn't be putting bending loads into the sensor.

You could also try chilling the sensor with dry ice to get it to contract.

TS
 
It may not be practical for you but the only way I can ever get exhaust system components out is to heat them cherry red with an acetylene torch. MAP gas would probably work and would be a lot easier to get hold of. I don't think propane would cut it unless it was a really big torch. Once they are that temp they may squeak a little coming out, but they will come out.
 
PB blaster and let it soak over night. PB Blaster it again and let it soak again for a couple hours. The put a good sized breaker bar on something other than a torque wrench. I've only had one strip out on me and it was a gm piece of junk. And apply constant steady pressure.. unless you have a impact gun handy.
 
Follow mechtech2's advice, also use labman's hammer on the end of Hardbodyloyalist's breaker bar,,, BUT only after running engine till it's hot as johnd suggested. I know it's uncomfortable under there with engine compartment hot, and you may burn your pinkies, but that's why you have to pay us professionals more than you think it's worth !

Bob
 
I got the oxygen sensor out! I like to thank you guys for giving me tips. I needed every one of them. I soaked the sob with PB blaster over several days, drove 30 miles, put an entire stick of candle wax on the threads immediately, went out and bought a big breaker bar. hammered it. with o2 socket plus breaker bar, it did the job. As you can see, I didn't have to break the o2 sensor off and I didn't strip the threads out either. I went ahead and placed my order for a denso OE o2 sensor with overnightautoparts.com. Thanks again.
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Just remember to apply some antiseize which should come with the new O2 sensors. My Denso ones came with small plastic tubes of copper antiseize, which I applied sparingly on the threads. Never had a problem removing them again.
 
Can't emphasize Chrome's point enough when you install the new sensor. Use the antiseize! Use the antiseize! Use the antiseize!

It has been apparently common practice on the assembly line for many automakers never to use antiseize on threads where it was obviously necessary, such as on spark plugs, oxygen sensors, exhaust manifolds, and the exhaust and EGR systems. Makes it a pain to maintain or replace later, especially when the part is barely accessible for the necessary wrench.
 
I hit the spark plug threads with a little silicone spray tp ease the installation, but not with any intent toward anti-seize. Not over-torquing takes care of that.

Oxygen sensors and the like, they're in service for so long, would you really expect anti-seize to still be in play years later?
 
Could you elaborate as to why you advise that ?
It's pretty standard to use anti-sieze where dissimilar metals are joined.
Concern for heat transfer to the head ?
 
I just had been struggling with a tough to remove O2 sensor on the passenger's side exhaust manifold off my '97 Firebird Formula (last year for the LT1). In the middle of a changing head gaskets job while the heads are being milled I attempted to remove the upstream O2 sensor without much success. Its been on there nearly 20 years and 151k miles. I was using one of those split down one side sensor removal sockets but the end began to spread open and so it slipped on me.

I decided stronger measures were in order and took it to work where we have a good sized bench vice. I put the manifold in the vice upside down so I could more easily get to the stubborn sensor. I had sprayed it liberally with Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil the night before and did so again this morning. At work we have what we affectionately call "Big Red" which is a TASKFORCE brand Heavy Duty 24" pipe wrench. That was the perfect thing to both turn the sensor socket and keep it from spreading open. That did the trick. Some of you may have enough room for such while still on the vehicle. I was lucky to have my manifold already off so room to work wasn't a issue.



 
Next time cut the pigtail off and put the box end of a 7/8 wrench on there. Use a big mallet or hammer for extra motivation. Try it cold first and if that fails get it red hot. I like starting cold because when you get them hot, sometimes the treads get damaged.
 
Next time I'd just make a new thread instead of bringing back an 11year old one.
 
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