check engine light on a dodge stratus (P1496) anyone have a suggestion?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 15, 2005
Messages
2,364
Location
sebring, florida
first i will say that i searched bitog forums, as well as the first 5 pages of google.

now, i plugged in my obd2 code reader after my check engine light came on. i am getting the code p1496.
my code reader explains to me that this code means

"P1496 5 volt sensor feed is sensed to be below an acceptable limit (under 4v for 4 sec"

thats all fine and dandy but i dont know where the sensor feed is, or the 5 v voltage regulator, if it does have one which i am starting to assume it does.

has anyone seen a similar problem in anoher chrysler vehicle and does anyone have a suggestion for fixing the problem?

im starting to think the computer may be faulty, but at this point id rather not throw parts at it.

the only symptoms i have is an occasional random stalling. once every 50 miles or so the engine will buck for a second as if someone momentairly turned the key off. but it comes right back on and everything returns to normal in a second or so.


thanks.
 
There is a voltage regulator for the sensors in the computer.
Check your connections at the computer, first, and see if that fixes it.
 
i pulled the pcm out and cleaned the connections. then bolted it back down making sure its grounded good, and re seated the wire harness connectors.

then i unplugged the battery for 30 seconds and replugged it in. bam, after 5 seconds my check engine light comes back on with the same code.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TheLoneRanger:
30 seconds is not enough time to clear the KAM; leave the battery disconnected for about 10 min with the door open.

What does the "door open" do?

Hootbro
 
i left it unplugged for half an hour with the door open and the headlights on.

same thing, 5 seconds after startup the cel comes on with the same code.
 
The 5V sensor feed goes to several sensors including the throttle position sensor.

You could check there with a multimeter to see if the voltage really is incorrect. There are 3 wires at the throttle position sensor, one of them will have the 5V sensor feed in it.

The 5V regulator is usually inside the PCM.

A bad sensor could be causing this problem by creating a partial short circuit from the 5V sensor feed to ground.
 
hey good info there. ill check all of the 5v sensors for peopler operation and check the 5v output via the tps.

if the 5v is indeed bad, i am thinking that i should replace the computer, yes?
 
That sounds right.

I'd try clearing this code with a scantool instead of trying to erase it by disconnecting the battery.

If something were intermittently shorting the 5V circuit, that would certainly cause the engine to buck. But the code should still be able to be cleared. Assuming you can get it to clear, you can then check after the bucking for the presence of a code (which will probably be a pending code that doesn't turn the light on). The second time the fault occurs is when the pending code becomes a "real" code and the light comes on.
 
i tried clearing the code with my actron scanner tool, and it would not clear.

the problem has gotten worse though. now the car bucks alot, and if i take off from a stopsign briskly the engine studders continously untill i lift on the throttle for a second, then i can depress it back down and she goes like normal.

i thought MAYBE it could be a fuel filter, so i disconnected the fuel line and ran it into a bucket. when i activate the fuel pump via a jumper on the pump solenoid, it pumps ALOT of fuel out the fuel line, im talkin fill a 12oz can in a couple seconds. i doubt its the filter. also during extended period of wide open throttle, it runs prefectly and pulls hard, just like normal.

the plugs, wires, air filter, have all been reciently changed.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Master ACiD:
if i take off from a stopsign briskly the engine studders continously untill i lift on the throttle for a second, then i can depress it back down and she goes like normal.

That could be a TPS problem. Try checking the voltage at the TPS while pressing the gas pedal. One wire should remain constant at 5V, the other wire should vary smoothly (as you press the gas pedal) between about 1V and about 5V without any "skipping" (it may be best to use an analog multimeter to see this).
 
ill try the tps and see what i can find out.

in the meantime i replaced the computer which got rid of the 5v problem. although it didnt help any with the stalling and bucking issues.

i tested the fuel pressure and it came back at 40 something psi, seems pretty good.

i temporarely blocked off the egr to see if that was the culprit, didnt change.

went and replaced the MAP sensor, didnt change.

besides the tps, im basically out of options. if the tps doesnt fix it and no one else has anymore suggestions im going to have to send the car to the crusher. they said they would give me $500 for it. man it runs bad. i mean somtimes i cant even get out of my own driveway.
 
Check the spec. Just because you've got 40+/- fuel pressure doesn't mean that it's okay. My buddy tore his hair out with his son's van until he found out from a pal at the chevy dealer that it needed 60+/- at the rail.
dunno.gif


I don't believe the DC PCM monitors fuel pressure. I know my jeep doesn't
confused.gif
 
Ask on allpar.com, they might have an idea.

Also the 5v regulated feeds a few solenoids etc, I like BrianL's way of thinking. You could try getting a schematic then unplugging LOTS of 5v stuff, TPS, canister purge solenoid, idle speed control, etc., (just throwing out guesses) and starting the car. It'll throw tons of codes but keep a consistent 5v.

Anything that gets the regulated 5v instead of unregulated 14ish is a precision metering device so think along those lines.

Also you can idle the car with everything plugged in then start yanking on harnesses under the hood. If you have an intermittent short it'll show up.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top