Oxygen Sensor: OEM type vs. Universal?

[Lumberg]

What is the difference between the two?

I have a 2000 Camry v6 which is getting bad mileage (low 20s) and I have heard that the O2 sensors on these can become "lazy" or miscalibrated.

Anyway what is the difference between the OE type and Universal? Need to fab my own connectors? Need to weld a new bung?

Also, if you have any thoughts on brands or any other aspects of this post please contribute.

Thanks

 

[Ryan00TJ]

Universal's usually need spliced into the existing wiring. Bosch's come with good instructions and is pretty easy if your mechanically inclined. The OEM's are usually plug and play.

 

[Lumberg]

So you can save $30-$50 just by splicing four wires yourself?

Those are some 'spensive connectors!

Just to make sure, the sensor itself meets all necessary specs, and they are just getting more for the connector? Is this because O2 sensors are a product where the same part number is used in many different types of cars?

 

[Gary Allan]

The savings, Lumberg, is one set of instructions (multi-language multi mode) and ONE stock number.

I had a buddy who was putting one of these on a Hyundai. He couldn't figure out the wire legend on the instructions (it was rather lame the way they did it) ..I deciphered it for him (I told you have to be able to think like th jerk-o that wrote it

). It worked just fine. He soldered and taped the wires ..and viola~! Cheap fix.

 

[chenobylite]

You can save lots more than 30-50 bux by splicing as some OEM sensors are outrageous. Just be sure you get the same type (1, 2, 3 or 4 wire) and thread pitch. If the car has a two hole flange, ala some Toyotas, you can get an adaptor for $20 or so and use a universal from there on. I recommend Bosch as they invented the lambda sensor in the first place. The wiring is a piece of cake.

 

[PandaBear]

I am not sure if this make sense, the universal O2 I put on my Integra will make the car "whistle" and the hole pattern on the shield is different. Maybe they test out different design?

Anyhow, from a functionality point of view it works, and yes, using a crimper and a cigarrette lighter to splice your own can save you quite a bit.

If you don't want to splice, get Denso one time fit (or is it first time fit?), they are connectorized and is much cheaper than OEM.

 

[Lumberg]

Are O2 sensors universal other than thread pitch and number of wires?

I thought some give different voltage readings, etc.

 

[Steve S]

oem

 

[brianl703]

This has information about the various types of O2 sensors:

http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/FAQs/OxygenSensors/

Heated Thimble and Planar sensors are probably the most common now. Unheated Thimble is mainly found in older cars. Wideband and Titania sensors aren't very common.

If you order a universal O2 sensor by application for your car, you will get the right one. There are many more different types of O2 sensor connectors than there are O2 sensors, and sometimes the cost of the O2 sensor is mainly in the proprietary (not available at a reasonable price to anyone but the automaker) connector that's sometimes used + the dealer and automaker markup.

 

[berge]

"I have a 2000 Camry v6 which is getting bad mileage (low 20s)"

that sounds about right for a camry 6, what were you expecting?

 

[tuong]

i got a denso for cheaper than oem and it just plugs in, dont have to crimp it or anything.

 

[Lumberg]

quote:

---

"I have a 2000 Camry v6 which is getting bad mileage (low 20s)"

that sounds about right for a camry 6, what were you expecting?

---

I always thought with really careful driving and maximization of coasting would give you high 20s or even 30 with a Camry V6.

So this brings up a new question:

what would cause a mismatch in the fuel system, such that the engine controls were delivering too much fuel for the given airflow?

 

[brianl703]

The fuel system uses feedback from the oxygen sensors to adjust the air/fuel ratio.

If you have a scantool, you can see the results of the adjustment (over the factory programmed baseline setting) by looking at long term fuel trim. 0% means no adjustment has taken place, the engine is operating at the baseline. A positive reading indicates that the computer is adding fuel to compensate for a lean condition; a negative reading indicates that the computer is removing fuel to compensate for a rich condition. Beyond a +25% or -25% adjustment, the check engine light will come on. (The check engine light will also come on for an oxygen sensor malfunction).

If the engine control really were delivering too much fuel for the given airflow, this vehicle would probably either fail an emissions check (which, if you're in the Washington DC area, it's probably subject to) or come very close to failing.

 

[brianl703]

According to http://www.fueleconomy.gov the 2006 V6 Camry (automatic) gets 19 city, 27 highway..

Did you purchase this car used or have you owned it since new? Have you actually seen a fuel economy drop in the time you've owned it?

How many miles are on it? I would not think that the oxygen sensors in a 6-year-old car would need to be replaced unless it has a lot of miles on it (over 100K).

 

[steveh]

When I had to replace mine in my 95 dodge 3.3 the price for a universal Bosch was $15.00 more then the OE Bosch at Advance Auto.

 

[brianl703]

That's the difference between Dodge part costs and Toyota part costs. (Maybe someone ought to start a Federal probe into why Toyota and Honda parts cost so much, even the aftermarket ones).

In this case, using the universal will save about $40 per sensor.

 

[Lumberg]

It's obvious brian has kept the common, straightforward approach at the forefront. thanks for boiling it down.

First basic thing:

Universal should work fine, as long as I am not a complete ding-dong in attaching wiring connectors.

Secondly:

Perhaps I am barking up the wrong tree in the first place, and there is nothing wrong with the O2 sensor.

Well, let me put it this way: I pride myself on getting the best mileage out of vehicles. With lots of cruise control, anticipating stops, etc I should be able to beat that EPA highway number easily.

So regardless of if it's mostly highway and no extended idling or anything, it's still underachieving. I want my car to be on the high end of the efficiency spectrum in this time of high gas prices.

 

[Lumberg]

More answers

This car was bought new and treated well, with easy load on the engine, for about 4 years. I serviced the car (OCs, etc).

SHe then gave it to me.

I believe she chould get high 20, or at least 25 with it, around 1-2 years ago.

Since this time the car has suffer minor front end damage, but not enough IMO to be deflecting airflow to the tune of 2-5 mpg.

 

[berge]

"I always thought with really careful driving and maximization of coasting would give you high 20s or even 30 with a Camry V6."

if you're doing 100% highway at 70mph on cruise, then yes, you might get that, during summer.

any other time, forget it, go with the epa city figures as a good comparison between cars.

 

[youngbuck]

With Toyotas I've always heard that OEM with most things is best. The O2 sensor is one of these things. I think Denso makes the OEM O2 sensors, or maybe NGK. If neither, then an OEM, NGK, or Denso would be what you want. I personally am going to get a Denso for my Tacoma.


EDIT: I wouldn't put ANYTHING Bosch on a Toyota. Other cars I've heard Bosch electricals (spark plugs, O2) will be just fine, but not on a Yota.

[ December 09, 2005, 01:31 AM: Message edited by: youngbuck ]